Before anyone says "use the search function" I did, and it sucks.

Having said that, the truck is in the shop getting the timing set replaced (everything, including oil pump, water pump, plugs, COP's, and possibly rockers and lash adjuster (lifters) if needed. Ford specs 5w-20 for the Triton 3 valve motors, but since I'm having the high volume, high pressure oil pump installed (and the fact that it gets pretty hot here in the summer) I'll be running 5W-30 in it. My question is conventional, semi-synth, or full synthetic?

I prefer to run Castrol. No particular reason. I always ran Castrol GTX in my Hayabusa (motorcycle) and she ran like a Swiss clock. I run either Motorcraft or Mobil 1 filters (whichever is cheaper of the two when I buy). The engine has 139,910 miles on it. Previous owner ran it a little low, probably making the same mistake most "old-timers" do in thinking that since it's an American V8 it only needed 5 quarts (the Triton's use 7 quarts). And from the sticker on the windshield when I bought it, it looks like he was putting 10W-40 in it (which is probably why the phasers/VCT solenoids failed). I'm fully expecting to find more than a little "sludge" in it when we get the valve covers off so I'm thinking of using Castrol's "Ultraclean" (conventional) for the first couple of changes to help clear out any sludge possible, then switching over to the semi-synth. Has anyone had any experience with the "Ultraclean" Castrol, or similar oils? Or should I just go straight to the semi? And are full synthetics worth it?

 

I always run full synthetic in my vehicles, but maybe I'm just overly concerned about maintenance.

 

the type of oil is not important as the weight and normal changes... The oil type did not screw up the Phasers... that is a known problem and can be related to viscosity and oil change interval / clean oil.

 

Use the right weight. Use the correct amount. Change as needed.

Today's full synthetic oil will offer you better detergent additives and will be effective for more time & miles than conventional oil.

Ford recommends Motorcraft Synthetic Blend.

A lot of owners use full synthetic oil, and have not had problems as a result of the oil.

The most important is to use the correct weight, correct amount, and change as needed.

You keep looking, and talking to people, and everyone will give you their opinion on which brand of oil is best, and why.

You can send your oil in for used oil analysis to determine your oil change interval with the oil of your choice.

 

Just passing through, but, seems to me if the manual calls for a certain viscosity of oil that's what you should use. I fail to see why a high volume pump would need thicker oil. Illogical. One of the nice things about synthetic oil, and the same to a lesser extent with blends, that the viscosity vs. temperature curve is flatter, meaning it doesn't get as thick at low temps or as thin at high temps. Seems to me that these engines are pretty finicky about maintenance and on my new old truck I plan to use the Motorcraft oil and filters. I think my truck calls for 0W20.

R.

 

Any forum members have used oil analysis results to share?

 

I used to use Mobil 1, until I read several articles about Motorcraft semi-synthetic. The two were compared and the motorcraft performed just as well, if not better, and was half the price (at the time). It's been Motorcraft ever since. Oil and filters. I wouldn't run a heavier weight in a Mod motor. OHC motors need the lighter weight, from what I've read. The valve train can "starve" if too heavy weight is used. Ford designed the engine. They spec'd the oil. Even at the dealership, oil changes are reasonable, and they give me an opportunity to test drive new Raptors...

 

In the late '90s my family owned a '93 chevy suburban powered by the throttle body 5.7, also known as a 350. At that time I was changing the oil every 5,000 miles. The Sub's usage was about 50% long trips and 50% taking the kids to school, short hops. At the time I was using oil I had bought for 50 cents a quart from a Checker Auto when they were changing brands they carried. I bought all they had, about five cases, and it was a mixed bag of name brand conventional oils in varying viscosities. That was what I used in the Sub. We kept a log in the truck of fuel used and oil changes and one day I looked in the book and saw that the oil was 12,000 miles old! I had just bought some testing kits from Titan Labs so I took a sample as I drained the crankcase.
When the test results came back, I was stunned to find that I had thrown away six quarts of usable oil! That's right, the test results showed nothing wrong.

At that point I began to consider that our 3,000 mile oil changes are wasting a lot of oil.

Don't believe me? Run your own tests.

I had a friend who used Mobil 1 in all his cars and he changed oil for wife and kids and himself. My daily driver Dodge truck at the time was burning about a quart every 500 to 1,000 miles. I hauled 23 gallons of used oil out of my friend's garage and for the next four or so years I ran my truck on 5,000 mile old Mobil 1. No oil-related failures occurred. I didn't test this oil.

Maybe with 10 to 20 degree hotter engines and the ultra thin oils now being specified, oil wears out faster. But the base stocks are refined better so maybe it's a wash. Anyway, I urge others to buy a Titan Labs or Blackstone Labs or whoever else you find oil testing kit and test your own. I bet most of the tests will come back graded "acceptable".

R.

 

I only use synthetic oil in all my vehicles. Every time I take them apart it's clean as a whistle in there. Synthetic oils do not create varnish coatings or sludge.

 

Here are my last 3 results from my 2007 F-150. Most people do these to see how long they can run their oil without the oil wearing out. I do it for the purpose to make sure all metals are trending closely, sample to sample, indicative of a healthy engine. Granted: my wear totals are low due to only 3,000 mile intervals. I am an OCD freak when it comes to oil changes. This is running 5W-20 synthetic blend Motorcraft. It is all I have ever used. Whether it be conventional, synthetic blend or full synthetic; any of them will do good as long as it is a good brand will do fine as long as it is changed on time and the correct weight is used. Synthetic will definitely keep an engine cleaner though and can be ran longer intervals than conventional or semi synthetic.

If you want to see how long you can safely run the oil of your choice, whether it be conventional or synthetic, without causing harm to the engine, consider doing tests like this. These tests can also catch problems like a damaged air filter, or a failing mechanical part, before it completely grenades on you. I use Blackstone Laboratories in Fort Wayne, IN. There are other companies out there that do this, as well. The downside to Blackstone is their testing for excessive fuel dilution is based on flashpoint, (the temp at which the oil catches fire), while other analyzers use gas chromotography, which is way more accurate at getting a percentage measurement of fuel present in the oil. But otherwise, a great lab to use.

 

In 2007, F-150 maintenance schedule was oil change at 5,000 miles. 3,000 miles for severe duty.

A decade later, used oil analysis has shown that oil can and will last beyond 5,000 miles.

Apparently there are owners of older cars who are doing just fine with changing oil at 10,000 miles.

 

Here's an additional one I had saved in my phone. This chart here has 2 analysis reports from my friend's 2007 FX4. First report was at 4,000 miles on Amsoil Signature Series full synthetic 5W-20 and the second was at 6,300 miles on Signature Series full synthetic 5W-30. The 5W-30 actually seemed to make his wear metals dramatically decrease; particularly iron.

 

on the discussion of VISCOSITY... many say " Do what FORD says"... and that is right , to some point.. If the book says 5W20, that is a good viscosity to use... but consider one guy is in Southern Calif where the temp is 60 F in the winter and 100 F in the summer ........ a second guy is in Northern Minnesota and the winter temp is 0 F and the summer is 85F .... it should be obvious that 5W20 is NOT going to look the same in both these motors... If the guy in California wants to use 5W30, I don't see anything wrong with that. The second number (30) is the approx. viscosity when the motor is HOT.. Should be obvious that 30wt in California might be comparable to 20 wt in Minnesota during the Summer. ............One important number is the winter viscosity of "5" ......... that would be VERY important for winter startups in MInnesota at ZERO degrees. ........ where it would be good, but not as important in California winters.

 

Maintenance is not just an oil change.

I just got new plugs & wires, a new radiator, replaced the thermostatic switch in the transmission cooler, new gear oil in the rear differential, drained the transmission pan and filled with fresh fluid, and installed new steering stabilizer shocks. Now I'm thinking that I should have replaced all of the transmission fluid, instead of just what was in the pan.

 

but the topic was motor oil / type / frequency of change..

I just did my transmission oil also. Welded a drain plug in the pan so I can change out 6 quarts again in a few months... Then every couple years going forward.... You don't get it all out, but your changing out 6 of 13 quarts on a routine basis to keep it refreshed.