Yes, that's correct, 48/49 and part of 50 had the bed with a metal liner over top. After which they changed to just the wood boards.
If you look at your serial number you can decode the build information.

Mine is: BD83H50-32402
BD=FORD, 1/2 TON, 4700LBS 114" WHEEL BASE
83= PICKUP (114" WHEEL BASE)
H= L.H.D., BUILT AT HOME OFFICE (Windsor)
50= 1950 MODEL
#32402 BUILT

There is a Canadian serial number decode thread located here:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1337738-the-canadian-vin-info-thread.html

The thread got a little messed up when the html table coding stopped working. However if you go down far enough you will find all the info.

Also If you have any original windows, you can look for the safety glass tattoo. If they are original they will have a date code from when the glass was made. Which helps narrow down roughly when your truck came off the line.

Attached below are pictures of my late 50 box, tailgate and safety tattoo from the passenger side window.
The tattoo tells me the earliest my truck could have rolled off the line is July of 1950.

As you can see from the pictures of mine, your truck is in awesome shape!

Kirk

 

I dont know why the picture upload is being stubborn today.
I've tried it four times with two different browsers.

 

What is the best way to lower my truck a bit 2 maybe 3 inches i would like to keep the stock frontend not go ifs . what i would like is lowered a bit i already have the trany adaptor from flatomatic to put a c4 behind my flathead also power brakes and power steering and move gas tank into frame . i would like to keep the flathead the front axle and the original rearend any suggestions would be great thanks

 

just looking on speedway and they have springs that lower 3 inches front and back has anybody tried these thanks for the help
Barry

 

before pictures

my Dog

 

With all the work you're doing, new springs and bushings wouldn't be a bad idea. If you go with the Posie's springs from Speedway, that should drop you 2-3" without any ill effects. They come with new bushings. All you'd need then is the shackle pin kit to go with it and you'd be good to go.

 

Yes Think the way I'm going is Dual flex springs in the front and Superslide springs in the back that should drop me about 3 inches . The freight and the money difference will hurt

 

Well i tore down the flathead started to clean it up to get ready for the rebuild and noticed 2 places on the block is cracked between the valve and cylinder not good news . looked on internet and there are options but probably expensive and I'm in northern alberta so really wanted the flathead but may have to go a different rout .im thinking about buying a car with everything i need engine trans front ifs rear ifs power brakes power steering steering column as anybody else did this and what kind of car did you get thanks for the help
Barry

 

I'd just get a 302 and AOD and go with the rest you have

 

That box looks like it might be off a '49 based on the front panel, rounded stake pockets and metal box floor ? either that or an early '50. My F47 truck box had square stake pockets, wooden floor and the flat front panel,

Regardless, nice truck. Good to see another Alberta member.

 

My project didn't have a complete flathead, so I opted to go with a 1990 Crown Vic donor, using 5.0L and AOD.

 

Your from Alberta to cool . I have in B.C. a 1989 f150 that may have a good engine I believe it a 351 with the AOD i may go see what kind of shape thats in the bad thing is i already bought the tran adapter from flatomatic and starter and shifter so thats why i was hopping to stay with the flathead

 

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-engines-and-...ationFlag=true
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars...ationFlag=true
Found this on Kijiji, maybe check them out

 

Thanks I will