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So I've finally gotten to working on my new truck again, I had to get a new battery and got a radiator ready to put in. So I put the new battery in and try to start it because when the guy brought it we started it and drove it off the trailer just fine and it won't fire. I put fuel in the front tank, 10 gallons and the gauge reads full. But I turn the key on and the fuel pickup continues to run and won't shut off, it sounded a couple times like it was starting to pickup fuel but then it quit after a second. I've turned it over and over and the fuel gauge drops when I'm turning the motor over and it still won't fire. Anything I'm missing here?
Okay I found the valve and I did have to bleed it, after a few seconds I got fuel out of it but pick up is still running long after and won't stop and still no firing
Well I seen next in his article to purge the lines, I find it odd that it had fuel and just started when it was dropped off now I'm having to purge everything
I didn't even think about that, whatever guy had this did quite a bit to it, sidewinder kit, GV unit, electric pump, I hope he put head studs in it to lol. But i wonder if he just wired it to stay on because I've seen a couple guys do that because they didn't want to do the work to wire it in so it would kick off for some reason. They just stayed on as long as the key was on. It seems to be sending fuel nicely, I'm bleeding the injector lines right now and this sucks.
That would be the correct way to wire up an e-pump. The pump should be connected to a "key-on" circuit, usually with a simple relay. The IP needs constant positive pressure up to the IP inlet, or else it will start starving for fuel, and ultimately lose power. (side note: a difference in fuel pressure will result in adjusted timing, but that shouldn't concern you. Just a fun fact.)
Another option is to rig up a switch to the e-pump, so you don't have to go through the trouble of wiring in a relay. I would NOT recommend this, because you could forget to turn it on, or a guest driver could drive it and not know how to start the pump.
Regardless, the e-pump should be on from the time the key is turned on, to the when the key is turned off.
Forgive me, yeah I knew that, I guess I just let that be the thing they did in my head since it came up. I know they did something "not normal" and it may have been skipping the relay. But either way, what I was thinking is I'm use to hearing my airdog unit pressurize the lines then kick off after pressure was reached before I started it, then of course it kicked on again and stayed on.
Okay so I took off the intake to the turbo and found a little oil pooled in the elbow before the turbo. Then I noticed this canister feeding off the elbow that had a hose feeding to the bottom of the neck where you put the oil in. I've never seen anything like this setup.
That's the CDR. Takes oil vapor from the crankcase and burns it.\
IDIs produce a ton of blowby/oil vapor, and yes, everything in your intake will be oily because of it. It's just what IDIs do.
Okay good to know nothing's wrong, it's like the CCV valve on the 6.7 Cummins, I'm just not use to the oil pooled up right in front of the intake of the turbo.
Last edited by Jmerchant6_9; Sep 12, 2018 at 07:42 PM.
Reason: Autocorrect can suck it