Stumped by starter relay
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Stumped by starter relay
So when I try to start my 99 f250 triton the relay won't even click. So I crossed it over on the relay and it starts fine. Figured the relay was bad. Changed it, same issue. Any ideas?
Last edited by nickniles; Sep 10, 2018 at 12:55 PM. Reason: Misspell
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From: St Louis
Did you first check to see if the relay was getting its signal (small wire) to turn on when the key is in START?
Which specific terminals did you "cross over"?
Manual or automatic transmission? If auto, did you also try in "N"?
Any exhaust or transmission work done recently?
So I crossed it over on the relay and it starts fine.
Manual or automatic transmission? If auto, did you also try in "N"?
Any exhaust or transmission work done recently?
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How would I go about checking that? Voltage meter?
the little one with the push-on connector and the bottom bolt(the bolt that the battery and alternator run to)
it's auto, I have not tried in neutral, but i will in just a minute. Didn't even think of that. Im not a mechanic by no means, but know how to do some stuff. Also, too broke to pay somebody lol.
thanks
the little one with the push-on connector and the bottom bolt(the bolt that the battery and alternator run to)
it's auto, I have not tried in neutral, but i will in just a minute. Didn't even think of that. Im not a mechanic by no means, but know how to do some stuff. Also, too broke to pay somebody lol.
thanks
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You have a dedicated fuse for start. It's fuse 21, 15 amp in the underdash fuse box. Make sure this fuse is good. If the fuse is good, what I would do next is get a voltmeter or testlight, hook one side to ground and take the probe and probe this fuse while someone else holds the keyswitch over to start. You should have voltage on the fuse when someone springs the key over to start. If you do, the problem is going to be downstream. If you do not have voltage on this fuse, the problem will be upstream, something to do with the ignition switch.
Downstream from the fuse the wire goes to side of the transmission, to the digital transmission range sensor or DTR sensor. This is basically a switch that completes the circuit when in park or neutral. Going into the switch the circuit is a darkblue/orange wire, leaving the switch is a tan/red wire which goes up to the starter relay you replaced.
Downstream from the fuse the wire goes to side of the transmission, to the digital transmission range sensor or DTR sensor. This is basically a switch that completes the circuit when in park or neutral. Going into the switch the circuit is a darkblue/orange wire, leaving the switch is a tan/red wire which goes up to the starter relay you replaced.
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Fuse is good. I'll check the rest tomorrow. Thanks for your advice. Also, since I bought this truck in July, I had a whole new a/c kit put in(mechanic shop. . Way beyond my abilities lol), new ignition switch, new pcm relay, new starter, starter relay, and replaced the battery cables to starter and relay.
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Reach over with your left hand and hold the key in the start position as you use your right hand to pull the shift level down through all the positions. If doing this causes the starter to engage at any point let us know and we'll go from there.
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did not engage.
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You have a dedicated fuse for start. It's fuse 21, 15 amp in the underdash fuse box. Make sure this fuse is good. If the fuse is good, what I would do next is get a voltmeter or testlight, hook one side to ground and take the probe and probe this fuse while someone else holds the keyswitch over to start. You should have voltage on the fuse when someone springs the key over to start. If you do, the problem is going to be downstream. If you do not have voltage on this fuse, the problem will be upstream, something to do with the ignition switch.
Downstream from the fuse the wire goes to side of the transmission, to the digital transmission range sensor or DTR sensor. This is basically a switch that completes the circuit when in park or neutral. Going into the switch the circuit is a darkblue/orange wire, leaving the switch is a tan/red wire which goes up to the starter relay you replaced.
Downstream from the fuse the wire goes to side of the transmission, to the digital transmission range sensor or DTR sensor. This is basically a switch that completes the circuit when in park or neutral. Going into the switch the circuit is a darkblue/orange wire, leaving the switch is a tan/red wire which goes up to the starter relay you replaced.
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according to my book, fuse 20 is a 5amp that runs audio, GEM module, and PCM. I'll check it, but you sure?
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I tested it anyways, no power.
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also, by no means am I arguing because I'm no pro, just telling you what it says. I appreciate any help.