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I'm just going to throw this in here - my 2015 F-350 (gone now - new owner knows about it) had the same issue. No lift, carried a 3200+lb slide-in truck camper - would get the error codes when/if I hit a hard bump with camper onboard, Still could never relate it to rear plugs but coated them with dielectric grease anyway, to no avail. In the end, just before I sold it and got my F-450, I found that I could make it happen simply by letting the parking brake lever snap up hard. Every one out of three times I did that, I'd get the errors - tried to tell my Dealer that it was probably a loose connector up under the dashboard to one of the dashboard computers? He told me I'd have to remove ALL of my mods (external lighting, both front and rear, air horns, etc.) before Ford would let them troubleshoot an electrical issue like that. I sold the truck and told the new owner about the issue - he's been fine with it! (and he bought both truck and camper).
I think this just proves something someone else said a while back - these errors are probably a "Catch All" for several different electrical issues!
same issue for the 2nd time..already lifted when I bought it. Dealer kept it several days and replaced a sensor for 500 bucks...told me it was fixed so went to pick it up and didn't even make it a mile down the road before it tripped again. they ended up tightening down everything related to the lift and until 3 days ago it had solved the issue. I went ahead and ordered the pitman arm nut but wanted to see if that has returned from the others who replaced this nut.
This is indicative of water intrusion into an electrical connector back by the spare tire. It is a grey long rectangle connector on the passenger side of the spare, with about 20 or so wires passing through it. With the truck off, pull the connector apart, clean it with a rag, blow dry with compressed air (if you have it), put dielectric grease on both sides of the connector, and put it back together. You can find dielectric grease at any auto parts store, Walmart, etc.
This has fixed many here on the forums (including mine). If it persists, take it in and have the dealer replace that connector.
I have a 2015 Expedition. Been chasing this problem for a year or so. I looked for the connector you mention but can't find it.
Hate to ask but could you maybe narrow down location for me.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks for the help. This issue has really been a complete pain. I plow snow commercially with mine and with all the snow we've been getting I can't afford to have it down anymore. I'm about ready to trade it in.
Did you find the issue? Mine is growing all the same codes including turbo jumping up and staying at 40
I have the same error codes pop up when I go from smooth pavement to a rough gravel road. something is loose. checked and greased all connectors. Have to been to the dealer yet.
2019 F350 SRW 6.7
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but had this issue going to work this AM. Searched this site and tried a suggested remedy. No rain here in 2 weeks. It worked! I wanted to thank everyone as pushing in the connectors near the parking brake seems to have solved my problem. Thanks everyone! Merry Christmas!!
Okay I had all these messages but also "See Manual" and "Engine Coolant Over Temperature" and No Crank... nothing. It was 47° so it was a cold start.
Checked the White Plug on the frame near the Spare. All Good.
Checked the Pitman Arm Nut. Looked fine.
Made sure all of my ECM or PCM Plugs were seated good and locked in.
Still nothing...
WITH THE KEY ON... Popped the cover on the Fuse box (Just popped one corner) and I heard my fuel pump pressurize and my door started dinging.
Fired right up. No more codes. Ran to town. Got there. Restarted - couple hours later no start.
AGAIN, WITH THE KEY ON Popped the one corner on the fuse panel again - same Fuel Pump Pressurized and the Door started dinging. I need to check my Pos / Neg connections there and apply some bielectric grease. That or it may be a faulty relay? No clue but my issue is there. And a slight vibration when I pop the box is making connection.
Whew. After reading this thread and a no crank to boot I was very worried. I just put a $17,176 new 2020 engine in it. So I have been there. Took me 10 mo, a business, family, home, and very rough road to get it back. I have roughly 1,700 miles on the new 2020 Engine. It's a 2017 (built in 2016).
Originally Posted by usmcbayboat
I left the Fuse Box top off since the codes returned and no crank. I figured when I pop that corner of the fuse box I touch the PCM Relay, Listed as No.14 in the Box Diagram.
On another return of the codes and no crank I touched the Powertrain Control Module Relay (14) and I heard everything come on and no more codes.
Just a thought. Maybe $20 new Relay would be a good start in all of this. Just because a relay works doesn't mean it "works". I've seen it on an F-150 throwing "no communication" codes had a Relay that clicked but when they replaced it and it started and had no more codes they cracked the old one open like a Pecan and it had corrosion in it. Green corrosion INSIDE the Relay. Imagine China quality control allowing that right? Shocking.
Again, I have no more Hill Start Assist, Hill Decent Fail, Trac Control issues, nothing. I still need to get another relay but its clearing my codes when it works properly.
Thanks, Devil Dog! I have a 2014 Raptor with the 6.2L engine. I had one code the same as PackerBacker TX (P193C) and two other codes that I have not seen others get (B1108 & U0422). I was not getting the AdvanceTrac, Hill Start Assist, or Hill Descent warnings on the dash. My truck would just shut down as I'm rolling down the interstate. I then used my Blue Driver to find the codes previously mentioned. I cleared them and they came back. Then I could not start the truck.
I used your experience and opened the fuse box under the hood while my wife turned the ignition on. I heard the fuel pump pressurize the fuel lines. But it still would not start. I gently tapped in all of the relays and fuses with the end of a screwdriver handle. Every one of them were not seated all the way down. I estimate they were between 1/32" and 1/16" out. When I tapped in a line of chip fuses in the middle, I heard electrical arcing as they were trying to complete the circuit. After that, it started normally.
I am going to pull every relay and fuse out and apply Deoxit before fully inserting them again. And I will see if this keeps the codes from coming back.
I'm waiting on my truck (scheduled week of May 2nd) and would like to have some dielectric grease on hand so I can coat the connectors shortly after I pick it up. I doubt there is much functional difference between the different brands, but I am seeing several different applicator types (tubes, jars, aerosols). What would you recommend for ease of application?
This is indicative of water intrusion into an electrical connector back by the spare tire. It is a grey long rectangle connector on the passenger side of the spare, with about 20 or so wires passing through it. With the truck off, pull the connector apart, clean it with a rag, blow dry with compressed air (if you have it), put dielectric grease on both sides of the connector, and put it back together. You can find dielectric grease at any auto parts store, Walmart, etc.
This has fixed many here on the forums (including mine). If it persists, take it in and have the dealer replace that connector.
Originally Posted by swlakingranch
I will give this a try this afternoon. Thank you
Is this the grey rectangle box you’re referring too ??
11-16-2020, 05:22 PM
So I have been there. Took me 10 mo, a business, family, home, and very rough road to get it back. I have roughly 1,700 miles on the new 2020 Engine. It's a 2017 (built in 2016).
