Getting back body lines
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2017
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Getting back body lines
I’m currently working on a frame of restoration on a 1978 f150 Custom. The previous owner had put 79 ford bedsides on a 93 ford bed. On top of swapping over the sides he used a patch panel on the wheel arch (from lmc) to rid the rust in that area. I’ve really come to hate the fact that LMC panels lack the body line on the wheel arch. So now I am looking to get the body line back. I’ve looked into panels but I don’t feel like warping the bed. I’ve decided I would like to use filler to get the line back (fiberglass and bondo over it) but not all sure how to go about getting it right. I though about getting a form out of plastic or silicone on a bed that has the line so I can then build it correctly. I’m just really perplexed as to how I would even get the form to do it though. If anyone can help me out here it would be very appreciated. Thanks for reading all of this and helping me out. The body line must come back
Elder User
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 842
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From: Puyallup, WA
I hate to break it to you, but there is no way to do what you're suggesting "correctly". Even the best filler in the world (better filler allows higher build) recommends no more than 1/16" of build up. Any more than that and it will crack in very short order. I limit my filler work to less than half that. Really the only way to do this properly is to learn body work so that you can weld in better (or OE) panels without warpage, or at least know how to fix it when it happens. Or you could pay someone to do it.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
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You can still try it. I built the lower rear quarters on my old '68 Cougar out of Bondo and it never cracked. It was thick too. I mean I built everything from the rear of the wheel openings back to the valance panel, and it was thick. It wasn't the right way, but it looked good.
Can you post up pics of what you're working with?
Can you post up pics of what you're working with?
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2017
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You can still try it. I built the lower rear quarters on my old '68 Cougar out of Bondo and it never cracked. It was thick too. I mean I built everything from the rear of the wheel openings back to the valance panel, and it was thick. It wasn't the right way, but it looked good.
Can you post up pics of what you're working with?
Can you post up pics of what you're working with?
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Freshman User
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FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
1/16 thick is nice but you can go to 1/8" and have issues but thinner is better.
Now you did not say how much it needs to come out, your skill set, thinking low if using glass & filler and the big one what tools you have to fix this with?
You could weld coat hanger wire bent in the shape you need to do the edge then grind to shape better and filler to finish it off.
Dave - - - -
Now you did not say how much it needs to come out, your skill set, thinking low if using glass & filler and the big one what tools you have to fix this with?
You could weld coat hanger wire bent in the shape you need to do the edge then grind to shape better and filler to finish it off.
Dave - - - -
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Freshman User
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1/16 thick is nice but you can go to 1/8" and have issues but thinner is better.
Now you did not say how much it needs to come out, your skill set, thinking low if using glass & filler and the big one what tools you have to fix this with?
You could weld coat hanger wire bent in the shape you need to do the edge then grind to shape better and filler to finish it off.
Dave - - - -
Now you did not say how much it needs to come out, your skill set, thinking low if using glass & filler and the big one what tools you have to fix this with?
You could weld coat hanger wire bent in the shape you need to do the edge then grind to shape better and filler to finish it off.
Dave - - - -
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 441
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From: Vicksburg, MS
My truck originally had the lower rack track molding. About 15 years ago, I removed it and welded up up the holes. I didn't have much time to fix it properly because it was my dad's daily driver. At every attachment point on the wheel arch, the sheet metal was pulled out about 1/16". I've been working on the body for a year now, and I'm ready for paint. Getting those wheel arches acceptable was quite a pain. It's about impossible to get that crisp body line back.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
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I know it’s not what your after, but long beds are a dime a dozen compared to SB. It might be worth considering shorten a correct long bed. It certainly can’t be worse or any more expensive in the long run. Look at what your up against now!
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