SSBC brakes Who has em lets get some results
#1
09-02-2018, 02:36 PM
SSBC brakes Who has em lets get some results
so the calipers are 835 I feel brakes are a constant mantinece deal on these trucks and could be a little better. Is this a one and done solution? Does anyone have this or am I better off keeping stock calipers and getting a premium pad/rotor.
Optimally it would be slotted and dimpled but seems the most common besides standard is slotted and drilled. (That’s for my next ride Porsche 911 not a 250 lol) yes I know PLENTY have used drilled rotors successfully on these trucks . I just don’t want to find myself inspecting rotors for cracks added to my check list.
Optimally it would be slotted and dimpled but seems the most common besides standard is slotted and drilled. (That’s for my next ride Porsche 911 not a 250 lol) yes I know PLENTY have used drilled rotors successfully on these trucks . I just don’t want to find myself inspecting rotors for cracks added to my check list.
#2
09-02-2018, 02:55 PM
Lead Driver
First off, there is no off the self rotor that I am aware of that is higher quality then the motorcraft units.
that said, the run out on my last set of powerstop rotors was within spec but the cross drill holes cracked into thousands of spider webs... unless you are using an organic pad there is no real use for drilled rotors other then looking cool.
SSBC calipers use the exact same pistion area and pad area as your stock calipers and offer no braking improvement then stock. They have the same clamping force as stock.
So it really comes down to is the $$$$ amount really worth not having to grease your slide pins when you change your brake pads ? Because other then looking cool that is their only advantage.
that said, the run out on my last set of powerstop rotors was within spec but the cross drill holes cracked into thousands of spider webs... unless you are using an organic pad there is no real use for drilled rotors other then looking cool.
SSBC calipers use the exact same pistion area and pad area as your stock calipers and offer no braking improvement then stock. They have the same clamping force as stock.
So it really comes down to is the $$$$ amount really worth not having to grease your slide pins when you change your brake pads ? Because other then looking cool that is their only advantage.
#3
09-02-2018, 03:06 PM
#4
09-02-2018, 03:21 PM
Lead Driver
There is a tiny bit of flex to the slide pin design but nothing that you are going
to notice on a truck, on a race car pushed to the limits a top notch driver on a track could tell the diffrence....... maybe
having the pistons clamp on both sides produces the exact same force as having one side fixed and pressing against it. It’s physics. Do the math. Having to bleed both sides is more of a PITA then greasing slide pins
if you want more clamping force you need to change the total piston area of the master and or the calipers, or get more brake torque by going to larger diameter rotors. The 16” willwood kit runs about $6000
http://www.tceperformanceproducts.co...-2004/kits-25/
to notice on a truck, on a race car pushed to the limits a top notch driver on a track could tell the diffrence....... maybe
having the pistons clamp on both sides produces the exact same force as having one side fixed and pressing against it. It’s physics. Do the math. Having to bleed both sides is more of a PITA then greasing slide pins
if you want more clamping force you need to change the total piston area of the master and or the calipers, or get more brake torque by going to larger diameter rotors. The 16” willwood kit runs about $6000
http://www.tceperformanceproducts.co...-2004/kits-25/
#5
09-03-2018, 09:13 PM
Senior User
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Choo Choo, TN
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There are several advantages to a non-sliding pin design. The biggest in my mind are the consistency of force application to the pads and rotors. This leads to less hotspoting on the rotor AND more even pad wear. This means better longevity of the parts and better long term performance of the system.
Now, whether that is worth the price of admission is a personal decision. In the car world there is also the Epeen
Now, whether that is worth the price of admission is a personal decision. In the car world there is also the Epeen
#6
09-03-2018, 09:47 PM
Lead Driver
There are several advantages to a non-sliding pin design. The biggest in my mind are the consistency of force application to the pads and rotors. This leads to less hotspoting on the rotor AND more even pad wear. This means better longevity of the parts and better long term performance of the system.
Now, whether that is worth the price of admission is a personal decision. In the car world there is also the Epeen
Now, whether that is worth the price of admission is a personal decision. In the car world there is also the Epeen
Fwiw I just changed my rear Hawk LTS pads today. Driver side front to rear diffrence was .190 and the passanger was .240
uneven ? Yes but even my willwoods do not wear perfectly square. ( don’t have a measurement handy but I am sure they are also a few thousands out. ) Hot spot wise, My rotors runout is still in spec and no hotspots.
#7
09-03-2018, 10:13 PM
Senior User
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Choo Choo, TN
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Those are very good results on the wear difference. What maintenance schedule do you follow? Just lubing the pins during pad replacement?
Anecdotally, and on an entirely different platform, I have had trouble with this style caliper. There was, apparently, a lot of flex in the assembly. Of course, that was a 1984 BMW and so years older than even my 99 truck.
On the pad front I have been looking at EBC Truck pads and the Hawks.
How do you find the Hawk LTS pads? Have you tried any thing you like better?
Anecdotally, and on an entirely different platform, I have had trouble with this style caliper. There was, apparently, a lot of flex in the assembly. Of course, that was a 1984 BMW and so years older than even my 99 truck.
On the pad front I have been looking at EBC Truck pads and the Hawks.
How do you find the Hawk LTS pads? Have you tried any thing you like better?
Trending Topics
#8
09-03-2018, 11:34 PM
Lead Driver
I carry a IR temp gun in my Excursion and on road trips or just randomly shoot the brake temps, tire temps, as well as wheel bearings and diffs on both the Ex and my trailer so I can can catch stuff before it becomes a road side PITA.
I’d say over the life of my Ex I have averaged doing the pins 1 time between pad changes. It’s quicker to do then an oil change.
I’d say over the life of my Ex I have averaged doing the pins 1 time between pad changes. It’s quicker to do then an oil change.
#9
09-03-2018, 11:47 PM
Lead Driver
I recently moved to the flat land so don’t have a good barameter on longevity but they should wear like any FF pad. When I lived in the Sierra Nevada mountains and was seemingly always towing something around I would maybe get 25k on pads and if I was lucky 15k out of tires. Mountain living is hard on stuff, you are always turning or going up or down. LoL
better ? I used the Motorcraft FF before I switched to Hawks... either are good but since Ford gets enough of my money already I like to spread it around some
#10
09-04-2018, 01:18 AM
I'd never heard of SSBC so I took a look. While they might have great stuff, they're liars so I won't give them my money.
I've used lots of different pads on different cars/trucks without noticing any difference (two exceptions noted below). I haven't tried any 'special' ones, just OEM and whatever's normally available at parts stores. I've also switched pads on motorcycles and noticed no real difference other than with centered metal pads which I think can't be used on a typical car/truck cast iron rotor. The brakes on my Ducati feel better than the ones on my Honda, but both are good enough for street and moderate track use. The brakes on my Jaguar STR feel much better than my Explorer, but both are good enough for street use.
As for calipers with one side vs. two side pistons, the two sided has an inherent advantage, but not something I'd pay much extra for in a street vehicle. Staggered pistons bump the precision another step. I've driven some really awesome vehicles with crazy brakes and while they do feel great they're mostly a waste for street use. If money is no object go for it, but I don't see the value in it unless you are going to push them hard. In a modern vehicle with ABS your stopping distance will be mostly dictated by the tires and road condition, brake pads/calipers/rotors will usually make very little difference as long as they have enough power to lock the wheels. High end stuff can give better feel and be more resistant to fading, but most modern vehicles will take quite a bit of abuse to hit fade temperature.
The exceptions from above were putting cheap organic pads on an Explorer and on a Thunderbird many years apart. Both made grinding type noises that you could feel through the car & steering wheel kinda like worn out brakes that have gone to the metal.
I've used lots of different pads on different cars/trucks without noticing any difference (two exceptions noted below). I haven't tried any 'special' ones, just OEM and whatever's normally available at parts stores. I've also switched pads on motorcycles and noticed no real difference other than with centered metal pads which I think can't be used on a typical car/truck cast iron rotor. The brakes on my Ducati feel better than the ones on my Honda, but both are good enough for street and moderate track use. The brakes on my Jaguar STR feel much better than my Explorer, but both are good enough for street use.
As for calipers with one side vs. two side pistons, the two sided has an inherent advantage, but not something I'd pay much extra for in a street vehicle. Staggered pistons bump the precision another step. I've driven some really awesome vehicles with crazy brakes and while they do feel great they're mostly a waste for street use. If money is no object go for it, but I don't see the value in it unless you are going to push them hard. In a modern vehicle with ABS your stopping distance will be mostly dictated by the tires and road condition, brake pads/calipers/rotors will usually make very little difference as long as they have enough power to lock the wheels. High end stuff can give better feel and be more resistant to fading, but most modern vehicles will take quite a bit of abuse to hit fade temperature.
The exceptions from above were putting cheap organic pads on an Explorer and on a Thunderbird many years apart. Both made grinding type noises that you could feel through the car & steering wheel kinda like worn out brakes that have gone to the metal.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Orezona
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
15
11-28-2007 07:51 AM