RABS bypass. How to
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,580
Likes: 839
From: knoxville, tn
RABS bypass. How to
First, by passing any safety designed system on any vehicle incurs risk. Do not do this unlessYOU have researched the topic and YOU deem it appropriate for your application.
My. RABS has been leaking for awhile and I have chosen to by pass it. But I ran into trouble finding a good “how to” on the topic. So now that I am done I thought I would share my experience.
What I used:
3/8 x 24 inverted flare to pipe thread adapter
7/16 x 24 inverted flare to pipe thread adapter
2 90 degree fittings
1 2” nipple
1/2 x 20 to 7/16 x 24 flare nut reducer
what you really need is a 1/2 x 20 to pipe adapter but I messed up while I was at Napa and got the 7/16. Luckily Advance had an adapter. I wish they had the correct size but it worked fine. Buy the correct adapter the first time! I made a U out of the pieces
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,580
Likes: 839
From: knoxville, tn
With it installed you can see where I had to add the 1/2 to 7/16 adapter
couple of things to note.
I used soft set 5 for the thread sealer on the pipe fittings. It is good stuff and works well. You could use a different compound and be fine, but it works for me
Be ready for a mess. I did the rear line first which is actually the front fitting, to try to reduce the mess. Be ready with something to plug the hole in the RABS so it doesn’t leak. Thread the line in but don’t tighten it down yet. Then swap over the rear fitting, the one from the master cylinder. With both lines in, now you can tighten them both up.
In the last pic you can see where mine was leaking. The base of the fitting for the rear line was looking sketchy. I definitely didn’t want it to fail while driving!
impressions: when I first started out, both the ABS and. Brake light were on. I was pretty irritated. As I drove it the Brake light went out. After I shut it off and restarted it the ABS went off too. As of right now, no lights are on. I think it will stay that way. When I went for a drive it had just started raining so the roads were pretty slick. I could lock up the left rear wheel if I braked hard. If I let up just a smidge it would release but still brake. During normal driving it was fine. I had better pedal than I remember having. Solid with good feedback. I have secured the piece so it does not jiggle around while I drive. I may make a mount for it down the road but I am going to drive it for awhile to make sure I have no need to got back. I have triple checked it and so far no leaks!
so far, I am very glad I did it.
couple of things to note.
I used soft set 5 for the thread sealer on the pipe fittings. It is good stuff and works well. You could use a different compound and be fine, but it works for me
Be ready for a mess. I did the rear line first which is actually the front fitting, to try to reduce the mess. Be ready with something to plug the hole in the RABS so it doesn’t leak. Thread the line in but don’t tighten it down yet. Then swap over the rear fitting, the one from the master cylinder. With both lines in, now you can tighten them both up.
In the last pic you can see where mine was leaking. The base of the fitting for the rear line was looking sketchy. I definitely didn’t want it to fail while driving!
impressions: when I first started out, both the ABS and. Brake light were on. I was pretty irritated. As I drove it the Brake light went out. After I shut it off and restarted it the ABS went off too. As of right now, no lights are on. I think it will stay that way. When I went for a drive it had just started raining so the roads were pretty slick. I could lock up the left rear wheel if I braked hard. If I let up just a smidge it would release but still brake. During normal driving it was fine. I had better pedal than I remember having. Solid with good feedback. I have secured the piece so it does not jiggle around while I drive. I may make a mount for it down the road but I am going to drive it for awhile to make sure I have no need to got back. I have triple checked it and so far no leaks!
so far, I am very glad I did it.
1st Gear
Joined: Jun 2023
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Update?
With it installed you can see where I had to add the 1/2 to 7/16 adapter
couple of things to note.
I used soft set 5 for the thread sealer on the pipe fittings. It is good stuff and works well. You could use a different compound and be fine, but it works for me
Be ready for a mess. I did the rear line first which is actually the front fitting, to try to reduce the mess. Be ready with something to plug the hole in the RABS so it doesn’t leak. Thread the line in but don’t tighten it down yet. Then swap over the rear fitting, the one from the master cylinder. With both lines in, now you can tighten them both up.
In the last pic you can see where mine was leaking. The base of the fitting for the rear line was looking sketchy. I definitely didn’t want it to fail while driving!
impressions: when I first started out, both the ABS and. Brake light were on. I was pretty irritated. As I drove it the Brake light went out. After I shut it off and restarted it the ABS went off too. As of right now, no lights are on. I think it will stay that way. When I went for a drive it had just started raining so the roads were pretty slick. I could lock up the left rear wheel if I braked hard. If I let up just a smidge it would release but still brake. During normal driving it was fine. I had better pedal than I remember having. Solid with good feedback. I have secured the piece so it does not jiggle around while I drive. I may make a mount for it down the road but I am going to drive it for awhile to make sure I have no need to got back. I have triple checked it and so far no leaks!
so far, I am very glad I did it.
couple of things to note.
I used soft set 5 for the thread sealer on the pipe fittings. It is good stuff and works well. You could use a different compound and be fine, but it works for me
Be ready for a mess. I did the rear line first which is actually the front fitting, to try to reduce the mess. Be ready with something to plug the hole in the RABS so it doesn’t leak. Thread the line in but don’t tighten it down yet. Then swap over the rear fitting, the one from the master cylinder. With both lines in, now you can tighten them both up.
In the last pic you can see where mine was leaking. The base of the fitting for the rear line was looking sketchy. I definitely didn’t want it to fail while driving!
impressions: when I first started out, both the ABS and. Brake light were on. I was pretty irritated. As I drove it the Brake light went out. After I shut it off and restarted it the ABS went off too. As of right now, no lights are on. I think it will stay that way. When I went for a drive it had just started raining so the roads were pretty slick. I could lock up the left rear wheel if I braked hard. If I let up just a smidge it would release but still brake. During normal driving it was fine. I had better pedal than I remember having. Solid with good feedback. I have secured the piece so it does not jiggle around while I drive. I may make a mount for it down the road but I am going to drive it for awhile to make sure I have no need to got back. I have triple checked it and so far no leaks!
so far, I am very glad I did it.
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Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,580
Likes: 839
From: knoxville, tn
It is still working very well. Braking power with a trailer or with a load in the bed is much better. No leaks and no lights on the dash. I can lock it up if I want, but I have to try to as it does not do it easily.
I have had multiple trucks without rear ABS and never had a problem. I have yet to miss the ABS on this one and I am much happier with how it stops.
I have had multiple trucks without rear ABS and never had a problem. I have yet to miss the ABS on this one and I am much happier with how it stops.
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 454
Likes: 97
From: SE WI
I was under the impression these trucks only had rear abs
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 11,271
Likes: 1,654
From: Las Cruces New Mexico
Have you ever tried disassemble the RABS unit to see what's the failure point? Curious to see how they look inside.
I took one apart on the 2wd ABS on my 00 f250 and looks basic, had lots of varnish, cleaned it out and reinstalled it on my work truck had been working good.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...assembled.html
I took one apart on the 2wd ABS on my 00 f250 and looks basic, had lots of varnish, cleaned it out and reinstalled it on my work truck had been working good.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...assembled.html
Its Comin Right for us!
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 12,158
Likes: 2,638
From: GA
Nice write up Ben! May be employing this on my 97 soon, stupid abs light is on, brakes work fine.
I did this on an 87 F250 and replaced with adjustable proportioning valve from summit, helped to dial back the rear a bit to prevent locking up while empty.
I did this on an 87 F250 and replaced with adjustable proportioning valve from summit, helped to dial back the rear a bit to prevent locking up while empty.
1st Gear
Joined: Aug 2023
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
It is still working very well. Braking power with a trailer or with a load in the bed is much better. No leaks and no lights on the dash. I can lock it up if I want, but I have to try to as it does not do it easily.
I have had multiple trucks without rear ABS and never had a problem. I have yet to miss the ABS on this one and I am much happier with how it stops.
I have had multiple trucks without rear ABS and never had a problem. I have yet to miss the ABS on this one and I am much happier with how it stops.
ABS Light went out on it's own after a few miles of driving? I'm thinking of doing this with my '97 just to pass inspection, but I'm not sure if I can pass doing so, and also if the light will go out on it's own.
Thanks for your time!
