Rough idle after warm-up
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Rough idle after warm-up
Hello FTE, having issue with my 71 360 running rough after warm-up. The symptoms are as if it is being starved of fuel and kind of making a surge when stopped at a red light at idle.Going to check for vacuum leaks this weekend but also would like to rebuild the stock carburetor . Was wondering if anybody could point me in the direction of the best kit to order and where to order it from. This is now my daily driver and I need to keep it running as good as possible. The symptoms are as if it is being starved of fuel and kind of making it surge when stopped at a red light at idle. thanks and any input is always appreciated.
1971 f100 360 c6 transmission
smully00
1971 f100 360 c6 transmission
smully00
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From: Lind, WA- Eastern WA
CARB KIT: The Ford Motorcraft carb kit for a 2100 2V carb is part number D4AZ9A586A . Napa has them too. But have you checked the fuel filter that is located on the bottom of the fuel pump? Fuel Filter (at the pump): C4AZ-9365-B .. Corrogated Paper Cartridge Fuel Filter (Motorcraft FG-1A)Napa part # 3271 for around 5.00. The pro-select version is even cheaper.O'reillys has them and Auto zone has them. Wal-mart might have them, Fram part # cg20
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Thanks for the info Gary. I’m heading to my local Napa auto here in Sacramento today to get the kit and star the rebuild . Was going to change fuel filters as well . It seem strange the problem starts after i drive for a while which makes me wonder how it could be a filter?? Thoughts. Seems more like a vac leak or maybe choke not working properly.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
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From: Phoenix, Az.
When you say running for a while, how long?
Could be a vacuum leak. Including a bad brake booster. While the choke is set it's richer mixture can make up for a vacuum leak.
Could also be a bad Dizzy condenser. If your truck still has points and condenser. Sometimes a bad condenser will work until the engine gets up to normal temp. Replace ONLY...and I mean ONLY, genuine Ford (Motorcraft) parts. There is a bunch of JUNK aftermarket condensers out there. While there check the points. See if they are worn out. And when setting their gap, get as close to 30 degrees of dwell as you can.
The V8 points are part number B8Q12171A (DP12)
The condenser is part number C9AZ12300A (DC13A) Both still available.
Could also be a plugged up sock on the fuel sending unit in the tank. Or the rubber hose from gas tank to frame fuel tube could be falling apart inside it.
Fuel pump going out. But this I doubt.
Could be a vacuum leak. Including a bad brake booster. While the choke is set it's richer mixture can make up for a vacuum leak.
Could also be a bad Dizzy condenser. If your truck still has points and condenser. Sometimes a bad condenser will work until the engine gets up to normal temp. Replace ONLY...and I mean ONLY, genuine Ford (Motorcraft) parts. There is a bunch of JUNK aftermarket condensers out there. While there check the points. See if they are worn out. And when setting their gap, get as close to 30 degrees of dwell as you can.
The V8 points are part number B8Q12171A (DP12)
The condenser is part number C9AZ12300A (DC13A) Both still available.
Could also be a plugged up sock on the fuel sending unit in the tank. Or the rubber hose from gas tank to frame fuel tube could be falling apart inside it.
Fuel pump going out. But this I doubt.
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I run 32 to miles to work one way. Then when I get off the freeway and or stop in traffic it starts to run rough. It feels like it’s surging ,sometimes it just wants to die out. Seems to be worse on the way home when it’s hotter outside. Not sure if that’s relevant but it’s more noticeable. One othe thing I’ve noticed is when I warm up in the morning and apply the break pedal it Idles up slightly... again not sure if that’s related to the issue. . I’ve replaced the fuel pump months back and fuel lines too as well along with inline filter. I’ll change the condenser and points with “ genuine Ford Motorcraft parts “ . Can I check the break booster for leaks with carb cleaning spray to see if idle changes? Or is there another way ?
I Appreciate the help And I’ll let you know what I find out. Thanks
I Appreciate the help And I’ll let you know what I find out. Thanks
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From: Ridgecrest, CA
You can remove the line to the brake booster and plug the port, to see if that's the issue. I would think you could use carb spray on the booster, but I've never done that. Also, check the fuel filters again. They're cheap, and these tanks are 50-ish years old. I just changed the cartridge in the fuel pump, and there was a lot of dirt/rust/crud in the canister. I was having problems starting when the engine was warm, and this seems to have cleared up my problem. The NAPA Gold cartridge filter was only five bucks.
Joseph
Joseph
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You can remove the line to the brake booster and plug the port, to see if that's the issue. I would think you could use carb spray on the booster, but I've never done that. Also, check the fuel filters again. They're cheap, and these tanks are 50-ish years old. I just changed the cartridge in the fuel pump, and there was a lot of dirt/rust/crud in the canister. I was having problems starting when the engine was warm, and this seems to have cleared up my problem. The NAPA Gold cartridge filter was only five bucks.
Joseph
Joseph
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Phoenix, Az.
Usually you can hear the vacuum leak if it's the booster. If you listen close inside the truck behind the instrument cluster with the engine idling. Maybe put your head down by the pedals and listen up. Listen for a "SSSSSSSSS" type of sound.
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