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After 10 years of owning my truck, I finally purchased a light bar and intend to use the upfitter switches for this install. I know where my upfitter switches are and will use the AUX 1, (yellow wire), and make the connection to the power wire of the light bar. I will ground the black wire to the cab. The lightbar came with a wiring harness with in line fuse and a switch. I don't plan on using any of this because the upfitter switch has its own relay. Am I on the right track?
That's one way to do it as long as the amperage draw on the light bars are below the rating for the upfitter switch circuit. According to another website (since I don't have a 2008 F350 vehicle/manual), the amperage ratings are as follows:
Aux 1: CAC05 Yellow 30 Amp = 360 Watts
Aux 2: CAC06 Green/Brown 30 Amp = 360 Watts
Aux 3: CAC07 Violet/Green 10 Amp = 120 Watts
Aux 4: CAC08 Brown 15 Amp = 180 Watts
As long as your light bar doesn't exceed the amp rating of the switch you're using, it should be fine. Some of the larger light bars get up to 300 watts, so the light bars you're hooking up does exceed the limit, it will likely blow fuses or choke the flow (causing a dimmer light bar). In this case, you will want to use a relay. With a relay, you can flow higher amperage because the upfitter switch simply activates the relay, it isn't responsible for the flow of power. Instead, the relay is connected to the battery and allows higher amounts of amperage to the device.
Seville009/Braggs I really appreciate the feedback. I tried looking for upfitter switch info yesterday but to no avail. Seville009 the data you guided me too was worth its weight in gold. Braggs, great point. I am tracking the AMP issue but you can never be to careful. Mahalo for your response. Have a Nice Day!
I had some KC slimlight knockoffs on my '13 before a deer strike took them out. They ran through the #3 upfitter switch to a relay and then to the lights. The relay was small enough, I tucked it outboard of the passenger battery along the fender well. There was at least a screw hole already there and may have already had a bolt in it. (It's been a while, so I don't exactly remember.) The whole setup worked really well, with one exception- turning them on and off easily. Because the switches are down low and moderately far away, it's not as simple and quick to turn them off if needed (I always turned them off for approaching vehicles). The next set I put in her will also be tied into the high beams, so when I dim those, the spots dim as well. The upfitter switch would allow for overriding that set up. The relay will work great for that application.
Your light bar should have specs to tell you it's draw, so you could then decide if you want to tie directly to an upfitter switch or use a relay.
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