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It dies randomly as I'm driving. Fast or slow speeds.
Sometimes it won't start. Engine being hot or cold seems to make no difference. Though one time the gauge read low, but there was a lot of heat under the hood. And the antifreeze reservoir was nearly empty.
Out of 10 times it dies, how many times of that will it start right back up? If it will not start, how long do you have to wait until it finally starts? Has the reservoir gotten low since you filled it? Have you tried switching tanks? The answers should help the answer folks know what is going on. Sandy
This really sounds ignition related to me. Check to see if you are getting spark. Spark testers are cheap. Then check fuel pressure while running and then see if it bleeds down quickly after shutdown.
In my case it turned out to be the pip, and I just went ahead and replaced the whole distributor. If when you are trying to re-start you never hear the fuel pumps run for a couple seconds, then it's a good idea to check the ecm and see if any capacitors are leaking. Keep us posted. Plenty of smarter people than me to help.
Fuel Pump Inertia Switch , supposed to turn fuel pump off when wrecked. My switch was good,
the plug was fried and intermittent. Mine was on the firewall behind where the clutch pedal would be if I had one.
Has a push button reset.. Unplug and check connection..
Also the ECU power relay could be failing. My 89 F250 would random die and would restart back up. Took a year(and few $$$ in parts) to find the ECU power relay was the problem!
What happened, the contacts inside the power relay were bad and loose connection. When you cycled the key to restart, they made contact and engine would start and run XX amount of time before breaking connection. I only found it after it hard faulted and I then could trace back the problem.
Truck sat over the long weekend. Dome light was on. Battery was barely functioning. Charged at 40 Amps for a bit. Started easily. Ran for 15 min at idle. No dying. Sounded good. Will tool around the neighborhood for a bit.
To do list so far.
•Replaced the coil wire, distributor cap, & rotor. All were corroded moderately - severe.
•Unable to locate TPI/ICM. Apparently it was already upgraded to a cooler location.
•Check the ECU relay for intermittent failure.
•Check the roll over fuel pump cut off switch.
•Check the capacitor.
•Check the PIP
I'll let you know if it dies again, but the new coil wire, distributor cap & rotor may have done it. Though now I have a check list should it happen again.
Thank you to all who contributed. It rocks to have access to your collective Ford knowledge!!!
Replaced the ignition capacitor and EGR position sensor. Made sure the EGR valve moves.
Ran another OBDI test;
Engine Running codes.
I did not " touch anything " during test as may be required.
311
thermactor air system fault.
536
Break on break off not activated during test.
538
Invalid cylinder balance
( maybe sparkplug )
632
Overdrive cancel no action.
(Again nothing done) ..