I haven't seen the HD clutch hydraulics, but from the photos, it looks like just an upgraded line and the same master and slave cylinder. I've never seen or heard of a line breaking, so that's the last part I'd be worried about upgrading.

 

I don't know if I have enough talent to do that. I do rev match when shifting even with the clutch, but think I would be pushing my luck shifting without the clutch. Especially with the trailer in tow.

The pedal cannot go any higher and the push rod sits just inside the master cylinder. I think it will get us home, and I will fix it then.

 

I had the same thoughts. I will probably get a LUK assembly from Rock Auto and the parts Timmy posted for the Heim mod. I plan to see how difficult it is to remove the pedal assembly in order to see about repairing the spring bushings.

 

That's one thing that is surprisingly so simple on these trucks when towing. Hold the right foot stationary, clutch in, shift, clutch out, then move right foot again. Passengers can't even feel the shift. Many times my wife would look up from her phone/book n ask why it got louder

edit: downshift rev matching, not upshifts

 

This is the response I received from South Bend.

No thanks, going with the LUK from Rock Auto.

 

Seems like it took a bit of cussing and contortion to get the pedal out. It's not hard to do, just no room and hard to reach. It's just a pin with clips on the end. Remove a clip, take the spring off the pedal, then slide the pin out. Just not a whole lot of room to get the pin out.

 

When all of this first happened and I was trying to get a picture, I thought that I might have to hire a contortionist just to get a good picture.

Thanks for the advice on the pedal, I thought I was going to have to unbolt the entire assembly from the firewall based on a glance at it.

 

No, you can get it out with just the pin. Look carefully. Seems like I tried going one way with it and ended up having to pull the pin the other direction. But it's been a while so I don't remember all the details. I just know I got it out. Unbolting it seemed like a bigger hassle.

I also have stuff I can stack up that's level with the floor so I can lay on my back and get up under the dash without having to twist my body too bad. Pulling the front seat makes it easier too. If you've got captains chairs, it's only 4 bolts.

 

You a just full of good ideas. I have all sorts of stuff to stack and make a platform. I might have to get a picture of that too just for laughs.

I do have captains chairs. Although I fear if I remove one I may be forced by OCD to remove everything to clean it.

Thanks again for the info and ideas.

 

 

Yup, a man after my own....you know the rest

 

Yo Sous..back from gods country..so, yeah..Chris got you covered..1 thing ill ad, you must remove both clips and remove pin toward passenger side. If you look closely on driver side, They(ford) massaged the metal and made an impression for the pin to hit so there would be enough room on driver side, but they failed miserably...when removing pin toward pass side, youll fish it threw the loom of wires. Again, they failed miserably BUT it can be done...they pin plastic bushings..BE CAREFUL because THEY only sell them with the PEDAL ASSY....

1) hold hand on clutch pedal and remove master rod
2) release clutch pedal slowly to remove spring
3) remove both clips with grout pic
4) have fun fishingbpin out

 

After the first couple minutes it gets easier. Id say give it a try on your own time, definitely start empty though. Get a feel for it now so if your clutch ever goes out you'll be able to keep going without skipping a beat. My first time with a trailer was thrown at me on my second day at work. ~50k was interesting uphill for someone use to straight shifting! Anymore it's just habit for me to do it.

I can attest that when I use the clutch, these trucks shift smooth as butter. My buddy was picking on me a couple weeks back that the way I shift people probably think the thing is an automatic.

On my way home I got to thinking, your return spring is still hooked up, isn't it? If you removed that it should help keep the rod in the master - nothing would be trying to pull it out when your foot comes off the pedal.

 

Made it home today without any issues. Just had to bring my leg up twice as high to push the clutch in. I will get the parts on order in the next day or two and swap them out.

Thanks to everyone for the help in getting the issue figured out and the advice on some of the mods being considered.

 

Awesome to hear, Sousbox..i wonder if the new trans fluid is to thick for the clutch hydraulics
From first pic, how in the world is did that master rod rust up?