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I'm going to be replacing the entire brake system in my 73 P400. It currently has two rubber flex lines to isolate vibration/movement from the frame to body. I would like to eliminate these and just run metal lines. My understanding is to do this by making coils with the brake line. The straight line distance from the master cylinder outputs to the first frame bracket is roughly 30 inches. I've seen vehicles with 1 to 4 loops, 2 to 5" diameters, etc. Not sure how to determine what is good in my application.
Any thoughts on number of loops, diameter of loops, and gap between loops, that would be sufficient for this?
Couple photos for reference...
Last edited by Hossrod; Aug 23, 2018 at 08:34 PM.
Reason: formatting
The standard according to the Cripple Creek Pub and Restoration Emporium is 3 loops around a Miller Light Bottle. This has served us well over the years.
Thanks for photo! I like it. My pressure differential valve is further away too so shouldn't be any issue. One thing I read elsewhere was to not let the loops touch each other. Don't know if thats a real harm or not, but figure I'll keep them 1/8-1/4" from each other.
The only thing I see wrong with the coils like that is they can trap air.
If the we're laid flat, coils up & down not left to right, and coils pulled apart some air could raise up to the master and out.
Dave - - - -
Have always done it this way for 39 yrs never s problem. The coils touching also have never been an issue, usually they are there for flexing purposes never an issue. I can say though that I also replace body mounts so framed to body flex is nill. On my 74 Bronco I just used SS braided lines with the 3 piece anodized ferrules from the MC to the prop valve. With a little slack. No wraps..
I never did run loops on my system and its been working just fine - I'm also using nickel copper lines tho, so any flex the system needs just flexes as required.
I still don't see the point of the loops... maybe if you're running stainless lines because they're so rigid?
The coils are there for vibration & flex.
You may not think the body & frame flex but they do, why do you think they use rubber between frame & body?
I like how they coils are done by ranger and what I was saying they should be done.
I don't know if I would have used a socket, too small a dia. for my liking, but if it works go with it.
Where did you get the line with the wire on the out side?
Dave ----
The coils are there for vibration & flex.
You may not think the body & frame flex but they do, why do you think they use rubber between frame & body?
I like how they coils are done by ranger and what I was saying they should be done.
I don't know if I would have used a socket, too small a dia. for my liking, but if it works go with it.
Where did you get the line with the wire on the out side?
Dave ----
The O.D. of a 15/16" socket is actually over 1".
I got the gravel guard (spiral wrap) from Classic Tube. I used OE steel but for more money, it's also available in stainless steel.
They also carry brand new 7/16"-24 inverted flare fittings for 3/16" diameter tubing (p/n ST8006), 1/2"-20 (ST8007) and 9/16"-18 (ST8010) fittings so, no reason to use line fitting adapters.
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