Hey folks,
I need to replace the pinion seal on my Dana 60 rear axle (1967 F250 4wd) and I just want to make sure I'm doing it correctly. I've searched on this forum and on line and have a couple questions.
1. As I understand it, the Dana doesn't have a crush sleeve but uses shims. If I count the threads and put the nut back where I found it (as many people suggest on the internet), that should preserve the pre-load, correct? I guess the other way is to run it down to the torque. My sources suggest 175 ft-lbs, does that sound right? Which is the best method.
2. I've seen a couple people suggest putting silicone RTV on the outside edge of the pinion seal. I have never done that with an oil seal. Just wanted to hear what you all think of that. Seems like it will be much harder to remove that way, but my understanding is that the seal is a press fit and shouldn't need any sealing help.
I'm gonna do the u-joints on the rear shaft while I'm there. After 50 years, I think they deserve a retirement, plus a do feel a little vibration.
This is a new venture for me. I really appreciate having experts like you guys to help keep me moving in the right direction.
Thanks in advance for you info.
Jeff

 

Yes it does use shims for preload as opposed to a crush sleeve. Any good seal will come with sealant already on the outside of it. If not I'd use regular old #2 permatex or just about anything. There is no torque spec for the pinion nut. It's based on rotational torque of the pinion gear based on the preload. How do you torque a locknut anyway? I'd recommend marking it exactly before loosening it and then going back to that point and then an additional 1/16th of a turn more since the bearings, shims and races have probably worn slightly over the last 50 years.

 

I marked the nut and counted threads before removing the nut on my '65 F250 2wd nearly 14 years ago. I have a 1970 shop manual that said 250 lb ft. I torqued it to that spec and the nut ended up very close to the mark I made before removing it. I repeated this procedure when I installed a beefier drive shaft and 1350 series u-joints 7 years ago. No leaks after tens of thousands of freeway miles (knock on wood).

 

Hey guys, thanks for the words of wisdom. I feel a lot better about doing the work now.
I follow up on monday and you can help me through whatever I screw up on Saturday.
REP sent your way.

 

The torque on the pinion nut has nothing to do with the bearing preload. That is determined by the shims. What made the seal start to leak? Plugged breather hose or the nipple in axle rusted shut? Loose pinion, up and down play? If you have some play up and down you can remove the bearing and pull out a shim or two. I have done this several times and not burnt up a pinion bearing YET!!!!

 

You should do the front u-joint also. I did my rear pinion seal mostly as listed above blocked the rear tires so the truck would not move.
Used a real monkey wrench clamped onto the yoke Not a pipe wrench that held it in place while getting that pinch nut off. Then use a awl to make a hole
in the seal ran a screw into it an yanked to old seal out with a small slide hammer.
I put every thing back into place like when removing an TQ it back up to what the TQ was up around 250 as, I needed to used my HD TQ wrench with a cheater bar to get it up to that poundage point. Clean the inside of the yoke an washer area before reinstalling an add a little RTV to the underside of the washer where the washer seats into the yoke so no oil can leak past it if no spline seal is used.

Orich

 

Thanks gents,
The leak seems to come from the breather. It was caked solid when I got the truck a couple months ago. It continued to have a small leak after fixing that, so I put off the repair. Last time I drove it, it puke a bit more oil. Figure it's time to do the seal now. Greatly appreciate all the advice. This is one of the best forums I've been on.
No BS or bashing the members, just good advice.

 

Please return after you've fixed it an tell us how it went.. thanks
Orich