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38's or 37's

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Old Aug 22, 2018 | 10:49 PM
  #16  
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I went with 37x13.50s on my 4.5” Carli, and wish I would have gone 38s. The 37s look great, but from pics I’ve seen, 38s fill the wheel well out better - in my opinion.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2018 | 11:13 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by brandontolentino
I went with 37x13.50s on my 4.5” Carli, and wish I would have gone 38s. The 37s look great, but from pics I’ve seen, 38s fill the wheel well out better - in my opinion.
Also, just the feed back I was looking for! Thanks! Yours is the all black on innov8 rims?
 
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Old Aug 23, 2018 | 08:51 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by gravedgr
If you tell us the brand, model and size of your wheel we can tell you the offset and backspace. I'm interested in what it takes for 37s not to rub, as I'm going that route.
Not going to happen. If the suspension is in travel and the wheels are turned there will be interference. Now mall crawling no problem. I just got back from the ranch in NM this am (1049 miles) and where the line broke and to look at the discharge area my 35's touched with wheels at almost full lock turning left and the front drivers side having to negotiate a very steep incline out of a wash with full suspension travel on that side (gravedgr I know you understand exactly what I am talking about from out PM's). Used 4lo and just crawled(off topic but my Cummins crawled better)--any faster or in full travel would have had interference.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2018 | 10:46 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Busa 1 Dave
Not going to happen. If the suspension is in travel and the wheels are turned there will be interference. Now mall crawling no problem. I just got back from the ranch in NM this am (1049 miles) and where the line broke and to look at the discharge area my 35's touched with wheels at almost full lock turning left and the front drivers side having to negotiate a very steep incline out of a wash with full suspension travel on that side (gravedgr I know you understand exactly what I am talking about from out PM's). Used 4lo and just crawled(off topic but my Cummins crawled better)--any faster or in full travel would have had interference.
No idea what happened to my reply, so trying again. Was the rubbing all on the front (bumper, valence) or was there rubbing on the rear of the wheels well or on the suspension (radius arms)?

I'm planning to replace the bumper with something very low profile like an ADD Stealth, but not right away. We'll take the S/D off road, but not for anything serious - imagine FS riding while having the camper parked somewhere. Anything that requires a ton of articulation, we'll take the Rubicon.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2018 | 12:31 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Busa 1 Dave
Not going to happen. If the suspension is in travel and the wheels are turned there will be interference. Now mall crawling no problem. I just got back from the ranch in NM this am (1049 miles) and where the line broke and to look at the discharge area my 35's touched with wheels at almost full lock turning left and the front drivers side having to negotiate a very steep incline out of a wash with full suspension travel on that side (gravedgr I know you understand exactly what I am talking about from out PM's). Used 4lo and just crawled(off topic but my Cummins crawled better)--any faster or in full travel would have had interference.
Not sure how you can make that assumption, it entirely depends on your wheel offset/backspace. I do a lot of fast offroading, I've been airborne quite a few times, full lock hitting berms and crawling out of sand washes, my 35's never get close to anything up front. 0 Offset seems to be the sweet spot for me.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2018 | 02:24 PM
  #21  
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From: DFW
Originally Posted by Tricon
Not sure how you can make that assumption, it entirely depends on your wheel offset/backspace. I do a lot of fast offroading, I've been airborne quite a few times, full lock hitting berms and crawling out of sand washes, my 35's never get close to anything up front. 0 Offset seems to be the sweet spot for me.
Not with a 4in lift on this vehicle with no trimming. I run 35x13.50-20's (BDS 2in) and I will admit that the narrow 12.50 would be more forgiving in a full turn however, I do not run tires with the big lugs on this truck. If you are running this truck like that then my hat is off to you lol. Jumping a F250 and if it is an oil burner then just wow... I had a highly modified Raptor that was set up by the RPG folks at a Raptor Run here in Texas to run 37's like you are talking about but we had to cut the devil out of the front fender well area, also do a lot of hammering of welds flat etc. Yes I know you are talking about a different truck and 35's but this new F250 has very little room in the front for big tires and suspension travel without cutting/modification. Mine even with the small tires has had a small amount trimmed maybe half an inch. Most of that was to compensate for the fender flair addition which decreased the edge of the back outside front wheel opening.

I thought about going bigger and higher but my builder who had done 15 trucks and Jeeps for me decided in this case it would require more cutting than I wanted to do to be functional. He has done a bunch of the new 250-450 body styles lifts and really cool air bag lifts (was on a F450) yes guy had about 45k in modifications in it was Slick Baby.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2018 | 03:09 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Busa 1 Dave
Not with a 4in lift on this vehicle with no trimming. I run 35x13.50-20's (BDS 2in) and I will admit that the narrow 12.50 would be more forgiving in a full turn however, I do not run tires with the big lugs on this truck. If you are running this truck like that then my hat is off to you lol. Jumping a F250 and if it is an oil burner then just wow... I had a highly modified Raptor that was set up by the RPG folks at a Raptor Run here in Texas to run 37's like you are talking about but we had to cut the devil out of the front fender well area, also do a lot of hammering of welds flat etc. Yes I know you are talking about a different truck and 35's but this new F250 has very little room in the front for big tires and suspension travel without cutting/modification. Mine even with the small tires has had a small amount trimmed maybe half an inch. Most of that was to compensate for the fender flair addition which decreased the edge of the back outside front wheel opening.

I thought about going bigger and higher but my builder who had done 15 trucks and Jeeps for me decided in this case it would require more cutting than I wanted to do to be functional. He has done a bunch of the new 250-450 body styles lifts and really cool air bag lifts (was on a F450) yes guy had about 45k in modifications in it was Slick Baby.
Youre still missing the point about offset. 35's fit a stock F250, I never rubbed once and I hit things all the time at full lock and considerable speed. I lifted the front 2.5" to level it, and still have never rubbed. Its not even close. A 13.5" wide tire will obviously be closer, and I have no idea as I only run 12.5" wide tires. But it all comes down to offset. The stock wheels with +40mm offset never rubbed, my 0 offset wheels are even further from rubbing. If you go out too wide they will start to interfere with the bumper, well, go to close and they will get into the sway links or radius arms.

What offset are your wheels?
 
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Old Aug 23, 2018 | 03:40 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by CuNmUdF250
You could always crawl up under the truck and find the spec stamp on the back of the wheel.
Saw a stamp that said 20x10 on one spoke then ET -17.8 on another so I am going to assume the offset is -18?
 
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