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how do you do that?i just got the part to reverse flush the oil cooler and plan on doing that this weekend and want to know how to flush the heater core out also
You can do this without buying hose, but I did. First buy hose repair connectors for 3/4" hose like these. What you need to do is connect a female 3/4" hose repair connector to the heater hose that normally connects to the WYE in the hose assembly under the Degas bottle.
Disconnect the hose going to the heater and install a male end so you can put a normal garden hose on it to direct the outlet flow where you want.
I've purchased many parts from Swag Performance Parts. He's close enough for 1 day shipping. Never had a problem. He sells good stuff and answers the phone. From my conversations with him, he refuses to sell parts of unknown quality and stands behind what he sells. He knows the 6.0 also.
For the OP. I've only known one mechanic that would flush my engine like I would. He charged $100 more than anyone else because of it. These oil coolers are pea traps. You must backflush the heater core and radiator separately. I was shocked at what came out of my heater core...and I had run anout 5k miles with a coolant filter. Make sure you know which direction the heater core flows so you can flush the opposite. It wasnt obvious to me.
You can do this without buying hose, but I did. First buy hose repair connectors for 3/4" hose like these. What you need to do is connect a female 3/4" hose repair connector to the heater hose that normally connects to the WYE in the hose assembly under the Degas bottle.
Disconnect the hose going to the heater and install a male end so you can put a normal garden hose on it to direct the outlet flow where you want.
If you have a vacuum valve, this is the hose.
If no vacuum valve, then here.
hook a water hose up just like I would do on the reverse oil cooler back flush?
Coolant normally flows passenger side to drivers side. So to reverse flush you need to hook your pressurized garden hose up on the drivers side. Unless you're OK with the water coming out with debris from the heater core through the motor you need to disconnect the hose that normally feeds the heater core. That's either at the valve, or if no valve, by the alternator. You can just disconnect the hose and let 7 gallons a minute water dump on your motor or alternator if you OK with that. I wasn't so I installed a male hose on on the passenger side hose so I could direct it with a second garden hose, which depending on your stage of the situation can empty into a pail, driveway, drain, whatever.
I was the guy who mentioned it lol. Just curious to see what you went with. Here is my split after back flush. Just got home after a 30 min drive... these 2 pics are 5 mins apart from each other. I while driving and idling just as I got home
in my case I didn't back flush heater core but I will this weekend. When I did my oil cooler flush I have the air water flush for 4 hours with bursts of air the length of time I did it for was because why not lol.
I was the guy who mentioned it lol. Just curious to see what you went with. Here is my split after back flush. Just got home after a 30 min drive... these 2 pics are 5 mins apart from each other. I while driving and idling just as I got home
in my case I didn't back flush heater core but I will this weekend. When I did my oil cooler flush I have the air water flush for 4 hours with bursts of air the length of time I did it for was because why not lol.
Glad I was not the only one confused by the OP referring your own referral lol.
I got some really nasty crap out of the kids project truck, when he drove it home last night he told me the heater will cook him out of the cab now(it got down in the 50's here)
Back in December in a post I had these, someday I'm make a video with all of it.
This was my cooler that I R / R+ flushed for two days in 2008, it was when Nylyon and I were trying to solve both our issues. Still had a high differential so I changed it out. All that flushing (normal flow direction) almost got the cooler interior cleared, cut open in December 2017.
But that was before the suggestions of backlashing. I did backflush the heater core and radiator. Those hoses I used Nylyon used in his paper.
What was found during the 12/17 cut-open in the input port.
This next situation was the cooler always had Shell ETC flowing through it. The differential had climbed over the years and I was never sure if the replacement mot had some gold in it that got mixed with my Shell ELC that I gave the dealership. My cutaway inspection of it while I work on the motor says no, there's no gelling. But the input port was clogged with debris, and it's not metallic rust. I'm thinking that the remanufactured puts something into the cooling system when it comes off the dyno to retard rust while in storage. It's not cooler friendly. But probably would have cleared with backflushing.
Personally I think they did that from the factory as well. My coolant filter was installed early and it picked up a lot of particles. For the longest time, I called it sand, but now I think it was a rust inhibitor aid or extender ... in solid form.
But irregular shaped like that Mark? It's like cracked peanut brittle.
Could be sand in there as well. I'm in-process of my forensic video of my motor, and I found a casting sand bridge between two cylinder cooling jackets when scoping with my bore scope. Some grains embedded in the casted wall still.
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