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I have ordered a Centech kit for my f250... Ive been looking online for anyone that has recorded their install and had no luck. Anybody have advice? I've never done this but think if I take my time it should be ok. Wondering about running the loop to the bed and rear lights. Does it just run through the frame? Any wisdom would be great.
Didn't document my install but was easy with the instructions they provide. Rear harness runs on inside of drivers frame rail, held in place with the original frame clips or aftermarket wire clamps. I bought a new harness for the tailights from Mr Tailight on fleabay because I wanted all new sockets. If I can do it so can you.
Definitely interested in seeing the results. Done several of the Early Bronco kits, but not a pickup yet.
Where did you end up mounting the fuse panel?
.Actually Hickory helped me out with instrument plug in ,back of instrument panel,,,,,Jim said these are almost impossible to find.So if your in a junk yard and you spot and old Ford pick up ,take your time and survey well,,you might need it down the road....I screwed up the last old truck I came upon ,now long gone ,,,,always looking ,,,,,,,just received my kit from jim,but I'll be awhile
Definitely interested in seeing the results. Done several of the Early Bronco kits, but not a pickup yet.
Where did you end up mounting the fuse panel?
Thanks
Paul
I have not got the harness yet , waiting for it to arrive. I take pic along the way
Didn't document my install but was easy with the instructions they provide. Rear harness runs on inside of drivers frame rail, held in place with the original frame clips or aftermarket wire clamps. I bought a new harness for the tailights from Mr Tailight on fleabay because I wanted all new sockets. If I can do it so can you.
Getting ready to run the wires back to the bed. The old wiring runs from under the dash out the firewall with the main bundle to the front of the truck. It then dives down and runs back near tranny and eventually runs along the frame. Im wondering if this loom should be running out the same hole as the EBrake. Doesn’t seem to make sense to run trough firewall and double back?
Ran mine pretty much like oem. I salvaged the big firewall grommet from the old harness and ran most of my wires thru it. Centech gives you enough wire to do this. My tailight sockets were bad so I ordered this and soldered the new wires to it with weather proof connections. Worked out great. Also wired in 7-pin brake controller. https://www.ebay.com/itm/73-75-76-77...QAAOxyGwNTDPSk
Im wondering if this loom should be running out the same hole as the EBrake.
No, never. Not only might they interfere with each other, or not fit into a grommet together anyway (if the wire bundle is large enough), but all wiring is optimally supposed to stay still, steady and stable. With nothing moving against it.
So a parking brake cable, that can see a lot of tension cycles run next to wiring is not necessarily the best practice.
Originally Posted by Sparty73
Doesn’t seem to make sense to run trough firewall and double back?
Made more sense to them at the time than it did to run the wires across the floor and out the back, where they are in way more danger of being scuffed, rubbed and torn asunder, under a simple floor mat that was not held down by anything (early models) or carpet of the later models. And with very little insulation, passengers were going to wear a wire loom down pretty quickly compared to the alternative.
Not only all that, but Broncos were Utility Vehicles pure and simple. Expected to be used like trucks, with junk, cans, debris and equipment thrown into the back and rolling and banging around, which are also not good for wires. And the optional heavy equipment (post hole diggers/augers, and other hydraulic equipment) and they would have had to keep the wiring tucked way over to the side, or up and under the protection of metal somewhere.
I'm guessing they checked out what you're suggesting, but found that routing it through the firewall and down the frame rail used less wire and fewer anchors (less cost) and fewer hassles in the long run.
Didn't document my install but was easy with the instructions they provide. Rear harness runs on inside of drivers frame rail, held in place with the original frame clips or aftermarket wire clamps. I bought a new harness for the tailights from Mr Tailight on fleabay because I wanted all new sockets. If I can do it so can you.
So ive started my rewire. Hickory. Can you give me some pointers on the wiring to the headlights. I think the previous owner did a lot of splices. From the firewall where did you need to splice into the old harness. On the passenger side there’s a factory plug that wires all the lights, on driver side there a bunch of splices with No plug.
First off I used the existing headlight harness's from each side. Then i cut off the corresponding plug to the harness's from my old harness. Ran wires from firewall to headlight harness on drivers side. Near firewall or where suits you best I stripped insulation from each wire and soldered and heat shrunk excess wire from drivers side to passenger side headlight harness plug. Then I soldered and heat shrunk both headlight wires to the old plugs I cut off old harness. Or you could just run the new wires straight to the headlight connector using the new spades that Centech provides. Still splice wires to run to both sides. I ran passenger headlight wires across cowl then down passenger inner fender. Clear as mud huh. Been 3 years since I did mine. Everything is in loom now. Will try to get a pic or two today for ya. If I can do it so can you.
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