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I have tried to make the clutch pivot out of a 9/16x12 bolt and nuts
first I took a carbide burr and ground the threads out of three nuts because I wanted them to slide over the non-threaded portion of the bolt
this was after looking on eBay and zoro and places for a 5/8 id 1 od material that I could use as a bushing
Alright so then I put some lock washers on and threaded nuts and it fits pretty snug but pivots easily enough
and yeah it might break the first time out I don't know....
I take it this is the motor said?
What is left of the part that broke, can you post a picture of what you had left?
That part you made should have a rounded plastic bushing that fits over that part.
Being rounded when the motor / trany move the cross shaft can move with out biding or chewing up the inside of the cross shaft.
You can see the plastic bushing and it is held on the post by a "E" clip
And here is my part all fixed and the parts (the bolt) I used to make the fix.
Dave ----
My out look is unless broke down middle of nowhere fix it right and why I did what I did.
What you made will chew up the inside of the cross shaft over time and it will fail then you will need to find or fix both again.
Dave - - - -
Thanks Dave I'm happy with it though I haven't tried it yet. The nuts spin freely on the bolt yet take up the space in th tube nicely.
I had the same concerns about the integrity of the tube being compromised but it is pretty thick.
Drill a hole in it and put a grease fitting on the tube. If you can't seem to drill it, grind down a little spot and then try to drill it, it may be case hardened from the factory. If you pump it full of grease, it will probably last a long time.
Do you have a tractor supply near you? Back in the bolt aisle they usually have these plastic sliding bin racks with all sorts of interesting things in them, like bearings and bronze bushings. Don't know if they have a bronze bushing the right size that may work in place of those nuts.
I was trying to search this out this morning a little bit, and found out some of the 60's Chryslers had a pivot bolt and the threaded hole in the bellhousing was 9/16-12. But I could not seem to get any farther, no one tells you the thread pitch of their pivot ball studs, just what car or truck they fit.
Thanks Franklin one failure (of perhaps many ) is it looks like the factory pivot is tapered to allow mov ment of the engine relative to the frame and my "design" has no provision for this
So if the engine moves a lot then it's possible that my restrained axis design will crack the z-bar tube possibly on the way out of the driveway....idk how much movement there is
Btw I welcome the suggestions and criticism it's good. I can go to a machine shop right now with a hundred dollars or I can order the last original part from Shenectady NY for sixty dollars.
Another idea I had was to cut off the threaded portion of the original part, then drill and tap for 9/16x12 stud
OR cut the head off a 9/16x12 bolt and weld it to the part you cut the threads off of like I did in post #4.
If mine snapped the 9/16 threaded part off what do you think would happen with a 3/8" threaded part?
The other thing about the older 3/8 part is the bushing end the same dia to fit a new plastic bushing on and the distance from the base of the threads to the bushing end the same between the 2?
Dave ----
Thanks Dave yeah I know I was putting another alternative out there for people who can't weld or have it done.
i think the welding is superior as drilling the caviity for tapping would weaken it (I think)
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) is it looks like the factory pivot is tapered to allow mov ment of the engine relative to the frame and my "design" has no provision for this
