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The picture below is the charcoal canister. One of those lines comes from the fuel tank or tanks. The other should be a purge line. Instead of venting the gas tanks into the atmosphere, they vent them up those lines and store the fumes in that black box which has charcoal in it. The next time you start the engine, the engine sucks the fumes out of the charcoal and burns it. Take this out and you will get a gas smell in the engine compartment. Plug the lines and you will build pressure in the gas tanks. Convert to a vented gas cap and you will be reverting back to the old days, with some gas smell back at the filler for the gas tank.
Not to de-rail the thread here, but on the topic of EVAP:
My canister is installed and all the lines are connected to the best of my knowledge, including one that goes along the frame and up over the top of the gas tank. I have the carburetor bowl vent line as well.
Each time I park in a garage, it smells like gas after about half an hour and doesn't clear up till I open the garage door again.
Does this mean my EVAP is not containing the fumes inside the canister, or is this normal for carb'd vehicles?
Not to de-rail the thread here, but on the topic of EVAP:
My canister is installed and all the lines are connected to the best of my knowledge, including one that goes along the frame and up over the top of the gas tank. I have the carburetor bowl vent line as well.
Each time I park in a garage, it smells like gas after about half an hour and doesn't clear up till I open the garage door again.
Does this mean my EVAP is not containing the fumes inside the canister, or is this normal for carb'd vehicles?
Yes, you do have a problem somewhere. If you had a later model truck, you would probably have a check engine light. The later models went one step further and put sensors on this system, even leaving the gas cap loose will set the check engine light. That's another reason why these smoke machines came about, to troubleshoot these systems and find the leaks. I do not know how much it costs, but if you can't find your leak they could possibly put the smoke machine on your truck and see if there are any leaks.
Also make sure your carb is not dripping into the engine after you turn it off.
Yes, you do have a problem somewhere. If you had a later model truck, you would probably have a check engine light. The later models went one step further and put sensors on this system, even leaving the gas cap loose will set the check engine light. That's another reason why these smoke machines came about, to troubleshoot these systems and find the leaks. I do not know how much it costs, but if you can't find your leak they could possibly put the smoke machine on your truck and see if there are any leaks.
Also make sure your carb is not dripping into the engine after you turn it off.
Using the YouTube smoke trick you might be able to check yours.
The canisters go in 2 directions, to the tanks and to the carb IIRC.
If you pull the line off the canister going to the tanks(s) and blow (a lot) smoke into it and look you might be able see where it is leaking at?
I can tell you the side fuel tank has a metal line that run across the rear cab frame cross member and the line rots away, mine did.
the rear tank goes across the cross member just in front of the tank to the right side frame rail then to the front. At the rear of the cab it Y's into the side tank line then to the canisters.
You have rubber hose at the tanks, 3 little ones at the Y and from metal line to canister. The roll over valves gasket could be bad but if you don't have gas coning out at them I would say you are ok.
The other part is from canister to carb with a few devices between but is all rubber hose.
Don't over look the gas caps if they are sealing too.
Dave ----
I wish it was easier to inspect the stuff around the gas tank. I dunno if I can get in there without taking something off bigtime.
At least I've just got one tank. 16 gallon midship, passenger side.
I might have that carb drip issue. I've found the truck is hard to start if I let it sit more than a couple days, but only sometimes.
Last night, I had to set the choke full open and floor the gas pedal in order to start it up. It flooded itself somehow over the weekend. Never heard of that happening.
sorry didint post in a while , been busy working ! but this is whats up turns out to make her run i needed a new one of this thing, along with fixing the choke turns out this old turd can tow! just pick up this camper that il turn into a tinny home ! 96km on 30$ of gas so i think il get a 4bt if i can! while she not 100% road worthy im making her earn her keep! can't beat a truck in its natural habitat ! im starting to tackle the interior! anyone know were i can get a full diagram on wiering! this truck wiring is a total mess from previous owners and no power to radio!, also anyone know if i can do a RSK conversion and install D60 axles ? starting to think building this truck to tow my 16' tinyhome project and maybe buy a chevy spark for in town to tow in the back of the tiny house ! double trailer setup! , also consideration pouting a 4bt with NV4500 tranny as soon i can find one !
Dana 60's are 8 lug f250/f350 axles and won't fit your truck unless you want to change it all around with a different frame. I believe they did make 5 lug dana 60's in the 1970's f150's, but they do not fit very well and require fabrication and a lift so the pumpkin won't hit the frame.
thanks for the electrical , i know the D60 8lug is a f350 axle and i know i would have to grab the matching rear axle and suspension , i can find many f250/350 in scrap yards but none are sclb and i like sclb! so frame swap is out of the question !
Your truck is a single cab long bed correct? (sclb?) You cannot find any f250 or f350 single cab long bed trucks in Ontario? Anything up to 1998 will work. That would be the easiest for you, is to swap your cab and bed onto a 85.5-up f350 which would already have the front axle you want and the matching rear axle. Frame is thicker than the f150 also. The f250/350 front suspension is totally different than a f150.
turns out this old turd can tow! just pick up this camper that il turn into a tinny home ! 96km on 30$ of gas so i think il get a 4bt if i can!
Hmmm? About 60 miles using ~6.5 gallons [?] = ~9 mpg?? I have a 1986 [feedback system 1984-1986] and the first 2 tanks were 9 and 11 mpg. It can do so much better. If inclined, read the attached link:
My research on these guys points that the Offy DP working better than the C.
If you're looking at a 4bt also consider the r2.8
i thought about the 2.8r but just the engine is 9k ! and i want sum thing mechanical and manual transmission , also no stupid EGR/DEF system , were i live we are exempt as long we don't role coal like idiots, also next pay should have a 6.0intercooler , had found a NV4500 but the guy sold it right before i arrived at his house.
also i got word in my town about a guy who might have a 4bt for sale trying to locate him ! came out of a hubert tractor ! for about 600$ running will have too looke it over =/
found out today that my smallblock ZF5 wont bolt up to a 4bt even with a adapterplate =..( so looking for NV4500 or a zf-6 =D also found these gooseneck mirrors , trying to figure out if should sand them and paint them black also how to bolt them up! want to do a proper job !
Your truck is a single cab long bed correct? (sclb?) You cannot find any f250 or f350 single cab long bed trucks in Ontario? Anything up to 1998 will work. That would be the easiest for you, is to swap your cab and bed onto a 85.5-up f350 which would already have the front axle you want and the matching rear axle. Frame is thicker than the f150 also. The f250/350 front suspension is totally different than a f150.
nope hard to come by in northern ontario srap yard scrap anything 10 years older ! so lots on hunting around in going old farms or yard shopping , im in the hearst/kapuskasing district so parts hard to come by, so thinking getting the Dana60 and welding up a box fram in the front , my buddy got a 97f150 with dana60 axles with 6"lift and works like a champ !but hes still rocking the 302, he just had to do a RSK type of thing and it bolted right up
i thought about the 2.8r but just the engine is 9k ! and i want sum thing mechanical and manual transmission , also no stupid EGR/DEF system , were i live we are exempt as long we don't role coal like idiots, also next pay should have a 6.0intercooler , had found a NV4500 but the guy sold it right before i arrived at his house.
also i got word in my town about a guy who might have a 4bt for sale trying to locate him ! came out of a hubert tractor ! for about 600$ running will have too looke it over =/
found out today that my smallblock ZF5 wont bolt up to a 4bt even with a adapterplate =..( so looking for NV4500 or a zf-6 =D also found these gooseneck mirrors , trying to figure out if should sand them and paint them black also how to bolt them up! want to do a proper job !
Dude if you can score a 4bt for $600 rock on, I wish I could get one here for that. Here Everything is over priced. To put that in perspective, a 95 F-250 with 7.3l 300k miles on the engine was running $15,000. My truck I could score $5-6000 for right now and not put it back together.
I can get a hard run 4bt or Isuzu box truck for $5000 -$7000. Then add in the rebuild and parts needed and your pushing $9k easy with Cummins parts, where you can get the 2.8 for $7500 with everything ready to go less trans adapter.
Cummins made re-power kits for Ford chassis bread trucks. Those Ford bread trucks came with 300 sixes, the cummins re-power kit came with the motor mounts, the trans adapter and everything to bolt in place. And guess what, the front frames of the Ford bread trucks are exactly the same as the Ford f150 trucks 1980-up. Finding one is the hard part.
The cummins adapter for the above setup is the small block bolt pattern, not sure why the zf small block pattern tranny won't fit? Flywheel problem or something?
