There should be some threads on FTE, as to which later columns fit. I used a 78 column because I wanted the tilt, but I went to some greater lengths, shortening the column 4” for more space in the cab. There are a lot of other considerations which you can read about if you do a search in FTE. One thing to remember as well, is you will need either a column that has the mounting for a neutral safety switch or a transmission that has a mounting for a neutral safety switch....one or the other. That will make your life a little easier. There is also information on here as to how to remove the clutch pedal and modify the pedal bracket. Lots of things to think about.

....All the things Old Coyote said...and several ways to approach it. I would refer to the link posted above and as much as you can read here. Things off the top of my head I can recall, which I did to my 66: 1) Added neutral switch to the transmission and wired it through the ignition circuit to start only in Park or Neutral. There is a pre-existing connector that you can tap into to accomplish this. 2) Added back up lights, since I had the NSS to do so. 3) Spliced all the 78 wiring into the 66 loom, including the on-column 4-way hazards. Most all of the wire colors match up. 4) Shortened the column tube and shift tube 4 inches...keep them position indexed. Shortened the steering shaft 4 inches by cutting 4” off the end and had it milled to a double-D. Used a Borgeson u-joint to match it up to a 74 power steering gearbox. 5) Installed an aftermarket steering wheel adapter and billet 15” steering wheel. 6) Removed the 66 column to dash bracket, indexed and weld to the 78 column. 7) Modified the 66 firewall to column outer bracket to clear the shift levers...or you will need the “short” bracket. Used the 78 cab/firewall seal inside the cab. Considerable work to do, but during a restoration is the best time. Let us know when and if you need more details.