302 Reassembly Question
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 318
Likes: 30
From: Florida
302 Reassembly Question
I removed a 5.0 from a 98 Explorer, dissembled it and had the internals reworked at our local engine shop. Now I am in the reconstruction phase of my first engine rebuild so I will no doubt have many question that I will need some help with.
Here is my first:
When installing the lower intake manifold, is it proper to apply some RTV on either side of the entire gaskets or around each of the water ports or none at all? Nobody wants any leaks, so I want to do this correct the first time. Looking at the heads and the intake manifold, it looks like when it was assembled at the factory they may have applied some sealer, but just around the end water ports. It does not look like there was any sealer at the center ports though. I don't think this engine has ever been apart (but you can never know for sure) and I don't know what they would have done at the factory.
I do appreciate your input to my question as I know there is a lot of great experience in this forum.
Thanks,
Bob
Here is my first:
When installing the lower intake manifold, is it proper to apply some RTV on either side of the entire gaskets or around each of the water ports or none at all? Nobody wants any leaks, so I want to do this correct the first time. Looking at the heads and the intake manifold, it looks like when it was assembled at the factory they may have applied some sealer, but just around the end water ports. It does not look like there was any sealer at the center ports though. I don't think this engine has ever been apart (but you can never know for sure) and I don't know what they would have done at the factory.
I do appreciate your input to my question as I know there is a lot of great experience in this forum.
Thanks,
Bob
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
I like to put just a light film of RTV on the gaskets to help stick them to the cylinder heads so they don't move when the intake is installed, a bead in the corners where the front/rear valley gaskets meet the side gaskets and across the top of the front/rear gaskets as well. I have used both rubber and cork front/rear gaskets and have found that the cork stay in place longer and leak less if they are glued to the block first with contact cement.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,922
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The only sealer I know of that really works on anything around gas is Honda Bond # 4. You can seal a carb dowl with that stuff, it's made to seal 2 stroke cases. You can use it around auto trans fluid, hydraulic oil, etc. too.
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 318
Likes: 30
From: Florida
I like to put just a light film of RTV on the gaskets to help stick them to the cylinder heads so they don't move when the intake is installed, a bead in the corners where the front/rear valley gaskets meet the side gaskets and across the top of the front/rear gaskets as well. I have used both rubber and cork front/rear gaskets and have found that the cork stay in place longer and leak less if they are glued to the block first with contact cement.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,013
Likes: 205
From: SoCal
I've always been told to use the black RTV sealant in place of the cork or rubber gaskets on the front and rear ends of the lower intake manifold. The 5.0 engine in my 87 Mustang came with factory cork gaskets in the front and rear ends, valve covers, and oil pan. I've replaced all but the intake end seals, but they've all turned into potato chips; stiff and flaking off, and leaking. I'm going to replace the intake seals as soon as I have the time.
The air ports on the intake face of the heads are not supposed to have any sealants, but it's a good idea to seal around the water ports, and as suggested, put an extra dollop in the corners where the heads meet the block and intake manifold. The one time I tired using RTV sealant around the air ports (just a taste), they got squished into the ports.
If the engine has had some wear and tear, you might find erosion around the water ports. Then I would use the grey RTV, as sets to a stiffer consistency.
The air ports on the intake face of the heads are not supposed to have any sealants, but it's a good idea to seal around the water ports, and as suggested, put an extra dollop in the corners where the heads meet the block and intake manifold. The one time I tired using RTV sealant around the air ports (just a taste), they got squished into the ports.
If the engine has had some wear and tear, you might find erosion around the water ports. Then I would use the grey RTV, as sets to a stiffer consistency.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
I like to put just a light film of RTV on the gaskets to help stick them to the cylinder heads so they don't move when the intake is installed, a bead in the corners where the front/rear valley gaskets meet the side gaskets and across the top of the front/rear gaskets as well. I have used both rubber and cork front/rear gaskets and have found that the cork stay in place longer and leak less if they are glued to the block first with contact cement.
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