Getting a P0275
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2014
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From: Arvada, CO
Getting a P0275
Hi guys, just got back from the Black Hills with the family last night pullin the fifth wheel. Got about 5 miles from home and noticed the truck running rough at a stop light. Ran fine as long as I was on the gas. Then, about a mile from home it started smoking like I was rolling coal. Checked the codes and all I have thrown are P0275 and B1352. The B1352 has been there a while and google suggests it's something with the key/ignition, so just been ignoring it. Researching the P0275 seems to be the number 5 injector being bad. Also, FICM voltages look good all the time. Checked the voltages again this morning, still good. I checked the coolant as well, in case I blew a head gasket. Coolant looks pretty good, not cloudy or anything. At this point, I think it's time for a new injector #5. I haven't done one before. Anybody got a favorite tutorial video they'd suggest? I've got an '05, no tunes or anything. What all do I need for parts? Valve cover gaskets? I was thinking I'd do the dummy plug/stand pipe upgrade on that side while I was in there. Is it safe to do just one side? Then do the other at a later time when an injector fails over there?
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2010
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We can hook you up with replacement injector(s) beginning at $100 a stick, but can also connect you with the dummy plugs, standpipes, valve cover gaskets, and injector cup nipples/orings to allow you to 'one and done' this job. You can absolutely do the dummy plugs and standpipes on this one side now and leave the other side for later! Just make sure to pull the FICM relay during the purging of the air out of the high pressure oil system! FICMRepair.com - FORD Powerstroke 6.0 FICM Repair, PHP Tuning and Truck Parts 4thewin!
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2015
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From: NW IA
You can reuse the valve cover gaskets, over.......and over. As long as they look ok wipe them off and reuse them
You'll want the Alliant brush kit to get that bore cup looking like a mirror before you install the new injector, which by the way should be a Ford reman only.
https://www.xtremediesel.com/alliant...ctor-brush-kit
If you have a good selection of torx bits you should be good to go.
I think the sizes you need range from 30 up to 45 perhaps(?). Might need one with a longer shank to get on the injector hold down.
It's not a hard job, just take your time.
A ratcheting box end comes in handy for getting the lower valve cover bolts off towards the back.
It's also the perfect time to inspect the nipple cups to see if they wiggle easily.
If they do, you can replace the o rings, easy job with the correct socket.
I would also inspect the upper seal of each injector, just to be sure none of them have any erosion.
As Ed mentioned, no harm doing the other side DP's and SP later on.
You'll want the Alliant brush kit to get that bore cup looking like a mirror before you install the new injector, which by the way should be a Ford reman only.
https://www.xtremediesel.com/alliant...ctor-brush-kit
If you have a good selection of torx bits you should be good to go.
I think the sizes you need range from 30 up to 45 perhaps(?). Might need one with a longer shank to get on the injector hold down.
It's not a hard job, just take your time.
A ratcheting box end comes in handy for getting the lower valve cover bolts off towards the back.
It's also the perfect time to inspect the nipple cups to see if they wiggle easily.
If they do, you can replace the o rings, easy job with the correct socket.
I would also inspect the upper seal of each injector, just to be sure none of them have any erosion.
As Ed mentioned, no harm doing the other side DP's and SP later on.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 817
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If you do the injector, one tool I found priceless for taking the oil rail's torx bolts off on the passenger side was a bit-ratchet. It's like a tiny ratchet wrench that retains screwdriver style bits. There is 1 or 2 bolts near the firewall that are nearly impossible to reach without this unless you remove the A/C box that's in your way.
This is the one I have and it works fine. I'm sure there are many others like it that will work well too.
This is the one I have and it works fine. I'm sure there are many others like it that will work well too.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 194
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From: Arvada, CO
How did you troubleshoot it to the injector harness?
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2017
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From: Parker, CO
I read a LOT on here (using P0275 to search this sub-forum) and came away with the sense that it was possible for #5 to fail but more probable that 12 years of heat cycles had damaged the harness. And, in my mind, changing the harness was easier and a few dollars cheaper.
So, basically, I lucked out.
So, basically, I lucked out.
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Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Stuttgart, Ar
That code really doesn't indicate a wiring problem. It's a cylinder balance code. Knowing the history of cylinder 5 on these trucks, the FICM harness would be the last thing I'd change, but that's just me.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2014
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From: Arvada, CO
OK, you've got my curiosity up! What's the history with #5 on these trucks?
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2014
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From: Arvada, CO
Got the fuel injector replaced over the weekend and runs nice and smooth again! Thanks for the tips guys! Did discover the furthest back bottom valve cover bolt only half tightened down. Got it out to find out it was bent. Not sure what the hell could have happened to bend a valve cover bolt! I bought the truck with 72K on it. Got the oasis report when I got it. Nothing on it indicates anything that would involve going under the valve covers. I've never been under there before. The stand pipes and dummy plugs were a square 1/2" drive vs. the 12mm hex like the new ones I just put in. So they hadn't been done previously. I'd hate to think that happened at the factory...but...
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 3,910
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From: NW IA
Good to hear it's running smooth again.
Those back bolts can be a pickle, hard to say what happened there. If I had to guess someone wrenched on it at some point with the wrong combination of tools.
The good thing about these valve covers is you can usually get by with one missing on the bottom or top.They don't seem to be leakers.
Those back bolts can be a pickle, hard to say what happened there. If I had to guess someone wrenched on it at some point with the wrong combination of tools.
The good thing about these valve covers is you can usually get by with one missing on the bottom or top.They don't seem to be leakers.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 194
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From: Arvada, CO
Ya, I inspected the area and the valve cover pretty closely. Didn't see any more gunk than anywhere else, and not much if any gunk at all to be honest. I figured the rest held it down pretty good enough.