Air is always present as our fuel tanks aren't baffled, you are always getting aerated fuel. We see it even in the newer truck like the 6.4 and 6.7 even though the fuel systems have been updated. There is always going to be a certain amount of air trapped in the fuel even with all fuel mods in the tank and lines completed.

 

I don't see anything "wrong" with the FRX, it's a great and simpler way to address the fuel supply issues. The quad feed does make a significant improvement over the dead head stock design. I verified this after installing the T4 kit and removing the rear DR side feed as it would not fit around the T4 mount. Noticeable difference in smoothness. I returned it once having a new line made and all is good again. If there is aerated fuel in the lines all the time, then I'm not certain one design over the other makes much difference. Aerated fuel is still getting to all the injectors but the more meaningful resolution of the dead head is resolved either way. my .02

 

The stock fuel system/bowl is regulated. The FRX is no different in this regard. The FRX also does not supply any additional fuel to the injectors it simply lets fuel flow past them by bleeding fuel past the regulator.

On a 4 way kit, I agree if air gets in to the heads, its going through the injectors but I struggle to see how after a hutch mod any air that may be present has a chance to make it through the filter and down through the fuel lines vs rising and going out the return line.

 

Thanks for all the discussion. So from what I get about the FRx and the CNC Fab 4 line system is that either will work and work well but the CNC Fab system will provide more fuel. Did I get that right?

Also I have come across another problem.....a coolant leak.
It must have been leaking for a while because the reservoir was empty. I parked on a slope with the back end of my truck about 17" higher than the front and at the end of my 10 hour shift there was a large wet spot under my truck on a hot sunny day. Which is what brought my attention to the leak.
However, after much searching, I can't find where it is coming from? It seems ( as far as I can tell ) to be coming from the bottom of the water pump, right above the crankcase wheel, does that sound right? Does that mean I need a new pump? Why would it leak there?
If so which one should I get? Riffraff has two with about $100 difference, Navistar and Motorcraft, Navistar being the cheaper one.
And if I recall correctly I thought there was one available with a spot for a spin on filter right at the pump, where would that be found?

Also....ya it doesn't seem to be ending, I have an oil leak that I can't seem to find either.
the valley always has oil in it, but everything (connections) seems to be dry. The only thing that I did see was the CCV box on the drivers side valve cover seemed to be excessively covered in oil and looked wet. Could the CCV box be loosing that much oil? I've lost about a gallon in 8+ weeks. If not where else should I look?

Remind me why I don't want a new truck please. My wife thinks this ones time is up. I keep telling her that with 250,000 miles things are going to wear out and need replacing and it only seems like a lot is wrong with the truck. That is the case right?...right?

 

Sounds crazy but i got the valley dried up now in mine. Mine seems to be wet in same location so i got the hpop fitting wrapped in T.P. lol. CAC boots are wiped clean and new worm clamps on ccv rubber hose just to be sure. I hope it aint the hpop gasket to motor. That thing was not something i want to remove again..hoping its residual from then..

The WP has a hole for when the bearing goes, to weep coolant from. Ive had killer luck with Airtek pumps. Just installed on new ride and other truck has 180k on its Airtek. Think, coolant filter contributes to its life..

 

Anyone else used Airtek?

 

I have heard good things about them, but installed an International pump from Diesel Site. This was the first repair I did on my truck after buying it besides changing all of the fluids.

Knowing now what I know, if I need to replace the pump again, I will buy it myself from an IH dealer and grind down the part that needs to be lower myself.

It is a solid piece of equipment and has the integrated filter housing on it to accept a common Baldwin filter. I don't regret the purchase one bit, but will go a different route if this one ever fails.

 

That was the go-to brand waaaaaaaaayyyyyyy back in the day, before the price of the OEM's became comparable.

Stewart

 

Hey Sous, what needs to be ground down on the one from the dealer?
Also, whats the difference between the dealer one and the Navistar one from Riffraff?

 

I do not remember the specifics of the modification needed on the IH pump, but I remember it was not that big of a deal.

I do know Nicmike has a thread from a couple years ago with details and part numbers.

The IH pump is a completely different design than the OEM pump. Once you see a picture of each side by side you will see there are many differences. Also, the IH has the integrated filter housing which was key for me when I was replacing the water pump.

The IH is cast iron as well.

 

Cast iron, aluminum pop metal...etc. When that bearing wants to fail, it wont care what type of material is housing it. That filtering is the key.

 

So I ordered my parts.
I ended up going with the T444e waterpump from PureDiesel, they offer free shipping. I also went with the FRx from Riffraff as well as everything else, exhaust, valve cover gaskets, air intake and so on. I should have it all by the weekend of the 6th of October and hope to begin working on it at that point. I'm really itching to get at it as its parked until I get the new water pump in, I don't want to risk driving it. Which makes life really inconvenient for now...

 

It would benefit you to find a tool rental (any of the big parts stores) that have a loner pulley wrench. I used one like in the image below and it worked like a champ. The swap was very easy really, just took my time.

 

Many use an air chisel to "shock" the nut loose but I do not have access to that.

I use the tool Sous has to hold the crank side and a special tool for the fan clutch nut. Lisle and OTC have the right tool for the nut but not all auto parts stores carry them. It is 1 7/8" IIRC and is a little bigger than most of what you can borrow in the standard fan clutch kits.

 

That is something I did not know. Thank you very much for the heads up on that.