Go with the T-409 unless it's a show truck or you just have to be the shiniest exhaust in the mall parking lot, then go with the 304 SS. You can get a 304 SS tip so that it looks nice but the 409 will last just fine.

 

You're correct, the 7.3L filtering system is much like the 6.0's system, however...

That 2008 trans pan and filter upgrade is for the 6.0 5R110 transmission. That 2008 trans pan won't fit on the 7.3L 4R100 transmission.

Stewart

 

10-4 on the 409 exhaust.

Any other feed back on any of the other parts?

 

If it were me looking at the same repairs you are doing, I would change the following...

- FRx to CNC Fabrication 4 way fuel system. I appreciate Clay and what he does for us, but the CNC Fabrication 4 way fuel kit is so much better.
- OEM only on the UVCH and valve cover gaskets. The Dorman are tempting, but the OEM ones have been updated from their original design and are your best bet.
- OEM coolant overflow bottle. Before installing, check the plastic welds and repair them prior to installing if needed.
- Coolant filtration system, are you running ELC? If so, the filtration system is not really required, but sure looks good and gives great peace of mind. If you have the mean green coolant, then press on with the filtration system.

I have never been a customer of Sinister, their prices are normally too high for me. They do have some nice looking parts though.

 

Thanks Sous,

OEM for the UVCH harnesses is the way I was going to go from Riffraff. As for the valve cover gaskets, Riffraff carries ones made by Navistar, should I look for another, or is that what you are referring to?
I am running the ELC, but my overflow bottle is cracked and "gunky" so I am concerned about what may be in the system and would like whatever is in there out.
I was going to go with the OEM overflow bottle but had also been leaning toward an aftermarket aluminum one for $138 on ebay. I'm still not sure which one yet. If I do go plastic, how do I go about repairing it if required?
As for the CNC 4way, this is the first I have heard of it. What makes it so much better?

 

 

Im a believer in filtering the coolant. Think, its what makes the WP last. Whether its elc or green, itll still carry the fallout casting. I removed the one out of my l99 and installed in the 02 thinking i was selling the 99. Now, i have another diy on order with flett filter.
If your into diy ideas then the 4-way feed is easy to accomolidh with the manifold from Mcmaster carr. You need link, ill provide it. Then, with using the 2 1/8 openings off fuel bowl, use 90* fittings to feed manifold then the 4 outlets, feed each head port. I mounted the manifold with a plate that was secured to the 4 13mm hole threads, down in the valley..nut'n to it

 

John,
So you used the Bondic on your original bottle and did not purchase new and fix it? Is that right? Thank you for the link.

Tim,
I definitely am for diy, even more so I am for saving money! Please send me the link.
The biggest problem for me is I'm in a pretty rural area and may not have easy access to the fittings and hoses but I will definitely look into it.

 

Youll see the threaded holes in valley when you take a gander. The manny has 2 small thru holes to use to bolt it down to plate..fittings are self explain. Eventually ill do the 4way on the C.C....


On website, click the manifold pic. Then just do the 1st rectangular pic manny

 

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/manifolds

Think link works

From veggie days

 

My free advice is worth what you pay for it, but sometimes I am good for the advice.

Looks like the other fellas have you squared away for the most part, but I will address some of the other questions.

- Navistar gaskets from RiffRaff can be considered OEM as well, no worries there.
- I have a filter on my ELC coolant system, but I have the filter integrated to the International water pump. Filters are OK on ELC, but not as required as they are on green coolant systems.
- An aluminum coolant bottle would work if you want to go that route. I was just saying to inspect the plastic weld on the OEM bottle to ensure that it looks sound and secure. A lot of times that weld is where they start leaking from. I was lucky and got one that was good from RiffRaff, but will fix it myself if it ever starts leaking from the weld spot.
- The FRx is basically another way of accomplishing a 4 way fuel system on the engine. It is OK, but if/when I go that route I will either make something like Timmy has posted, or go the CNC Fabrication route and get the 4 way fuel system.

Here is the link to CNC Fabrication - https://www.cncfab.us/shop/cnc-sd-7-3brfk/

 

Just a heads up, a 4 line feed isn't a regulated return. All the air stuck in your fuel is fed through your injectors just like stock. It was something we tried and was popular 10 years ago and really isn't optimal unless you need huge amounts of fuel for a very large build. The best system for normal build and fuel system is a regulated return or FRx so that you allow a return path for the aerated fuel.

 

Well there you go, I learned more than one thing today... Of course is the truck has the H/H mod completed and air removed from the fuel system, then I think the 4 way fuel kit would serve just as well.

Thanks for chiming in sir!

 

if one was successful with the Hutch mod, then where does the aerated fuel come from?