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Someone that knows about these please tell me why there is so many to choose from and which ones are the best for me? 2002 F250 superduty 4x4, 7.3 i Don't understand the differences all being motorcraft but different pricing and all... im overwhelmed. i do know some are for 4x4 which is what i'll want but there is soo many for 4x4
My preference is the printed version. It doesn't expire. The two benefits I see with the online manual is you can search it and the pictures are color. I'd rather have a manual that doesn't expire. I do not know of any way to download a copy of the online manual. That would be cool if you could, though.
FYI - there are grease zerks on a lot of the ball joints. You may not be able to get the upper ball joint grease zerk in and have the axle shaft able to rotate - there may be clearance issues with the universal joint. If this is the case - put the grease zerk on and grease the ball joint while you have the knuckle installed, prior to installing the axle shaft. Then replace the grease zerk with the plug and install the axle shaft.
I have had better luck with xrf than moog in recent years. Running two plow trucks full time each winter I've had moog balkjoints go bad in less than two seasons. This was even after going through the trouble of removing the plug and re-installing the zerk to grease the uppers at the end of the season. I'm feeling pretty let down by moog parts lately.
Ive had moog u-joints in recent memory for a front axle that were manufactured to such sloppy tolerances they wouldn't even fit without having to modify them slightly, and this wasn't because of bent ears on the axle. I've been down that road before. A mechanic friend of mine has had the same experience. Not ball joint specific but just a anecdote to highlight moogs quality control. IMO they are riding on their name and aren't the same quality they once were.
Last edited by Squisher; Jul 27, 2018 at 01:19 PM.
Reason: meant Xrf was posting after graveyard shift think I use skf for some bearing stuff.