Looking at a 6.7
#1
Looking at a 6.7
2011 F350 SD Crewcab Lariat 128,000 miles, asking $24,700. Couple small scratches here and there. Small dings inside. Tires new. Brakes shutter a bit and pull right. Their looking at that as we speak.
Having been a 7.3 owner, looking for some advice as to what to look for when at the dealer. Price seems decent. They have a little statement that says price does not include $1,495 recondition fee. Damn I hate when dealerships do that but think I can negotiate around that. It seems dealers are not big on coming down on price down here in Texas.
Any help would be apppriciated.
Steve
Having been a 7.3 owner, looking for some advice as to what to look for when at the dealer. Price seems decent. They have a little statement that says price does not include $1,495 recondition fee. Damn I hate when dealerships do that but think I can negotiate around that. It seems dealers are not big on coming down on price down here in Texas.
Any help would be apppriciated.
Steve
#2
I'm new here but I've had a lot of stuff happen with my '13 6.7. For starters I"m never a big fan of the first year production run on a new motor, I believe the '11's had several issues maybe most notable the turbos with the ceramic bearings. Some even had their crank shafts shear. Oil pan leaks need to be looked for upper and lower as they can be subtle at first. My truck was a little low on coolant but I bought it anyway, turned out to be a bad egr cooler($$); lots of trucks are seeing these let go around 130-140k miles, more likely if idle time is high of course. I also noticed a little light oil coming down front of motor on close inspection turned out to be a oil vacuum lift pump gasket failure($) luckily not the oil pan(s). After egr cooler egr valve went bad($$) then I joined the CAC failure club($) while towing so make sure you get a spare with you in the truck or just upgrade it right off. I think a good vehicle history is still the best, my truck had great service records and was a one owner but was a fleet vehicle and they likely idled the junk out of it. Good luck.
#3
Early build 2011s had an issue with exhaust valve metallurgy and more than a few experienced catastrophic engine failure when the valve head broke off and distroyed the engine. There was no pre-warning or mileage range. in late 2011 they changed the valve material and resolved the problem going forward. I’d be very hesitant to buy an early 11 unless it had an engine replacement already as it’s a $12k unplanned expense if you buy one and end up experiencing the failure.
#6
#7
If you're serious about price, you'll look for something lower than a Lariat model. That package alone commands a $5000 premium above XLT models. I've got an XLT and it's got everything I need and nothing I don't. Do you really need leather, chromed plastic, navigation and heated/cooled seats?
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#8
If you are the unfortunate victim of a valve letting go, you certainly will not be able to afford that either. I wouldn't take that risk on a 2011 diesel. The regulars here have seen this story often enough to know that it's real.
Just trying to help, so you are aware of the risk. Could be why the truck is priced this way. Educated shoppers know the issue around a 2011 truck that has some miles on it.
bruce...
Just trying to help, so you are aware of the risk. Could be why the truck is priced this way. Educated shoppers know the issue around a 2011 truck that has some miles on it.
bruce...
#9
Here’s the TSB that deals with this copied from another post.
6.7L DIESEL - RUNS ROUGH - NO CRANK - GLOW PLUG CIRCUIT DIAGNOSTIC
TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) - BUILT ON OR BEFORE 3/29/2011
TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN
Reference Number(s): 14-0127, Date of Issue: July 3, 2014
Superceded Bulletin(s): 12-11-11, Date of Issue: November 16, 2012
Related Ref Number(s): 12-11-11, 14-0127
ARTICLE BEGINNING
ISSUE
Some 2011 F-Super Duty vehicles equipped with a 6.7L diesel engine and built on or before
3/29/2011 may exhibit a runs rough or no crank concern due to a broken exhaust valve. DTCs P0671,
P0672, P0673, P0674, P0675, P0676, P0677 and/or P0678 may be stored in the powertrain control
module (PCM) from a damaged glow plug. The glow plug circuit DTCs may also be accompanied by
cylinder misfire DTCs, cylinder contribution DTCs or other engine performance DTCs.
ACTION
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Does the vehicle exhibit a runs rough, no crank concern with any of the following DTCs
P0671, P0672, P0673, P0674, P0675, P0676, P0677 and/or P0678?
a. No - this article does not apply. Refer to the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis
(PC/ED) manual for normal diagnosis.
b. Yes - proceed to Step 2.
2. Remove and inspect the glow plug associated with glow plug circuit DTC present. Refer to
Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 303-07C. Is the glow plug damaged?
a. No - this article does not apply. Refer to the PC/ED manual for normal diagnosis.
b. Yes - replace the engine long block. Refer to WSM, Section 303-01C.
1. For prior approval warranty repairs, complete the cost cap tool by selecting short
block, both cylinder heads, oil cooler and 16 lifters.
6.7L DIESEL - RUNS ROUGH - NO CRANK - GLOW PLUG CIRCUIT DIAGNOSTIC
TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) - BUILT ON OR BEFORE 3/29/2011
TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN
Reference Number(s): 14-0127, Date of Issue: July 3, 2014
Superceded Bulletin(s): 12-11-11, Date of Issue: November 16, 2012
Related Ref Number(s): 12-11-11, 14-0127
ARTICLE BEGINNING
ISSUE
Some 2011 F-Super Duty vehicles equipped with a 6.7L diesel engine and built on or before
3/29/2011 may exhibit a runs rough or no crank concern due to a broken exhaust valve. DTCs P0671,
P0672, P0673, P0674, P0675, P0676, P0677 and/or P0678 may be stored in the powertrain control
module (PCM) from a damaged glow plug. The glow plug circuit DTCs may also be accompanied by
cylinder misfire DTCs, cylinder contribution DTCs or other engine performance DTCs.
ACTION
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Does the vehicle exhibit a runs rough, no crank concern with any of the following DTCs
P0671, P0672, P0673, P0674, P0675, P0676, P0677 and/or P0678?
a. No - this article does not apply. Refer to the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis
(PC/ED) manual for normal diagnosis.
b. Yes - proceed to Step 2.
2. Remove and inspect the glow plug associated with glow plug circuit DTC present. Refer to
Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 303-07C. Is the glow plug damaged?
a. No - this article does not apply. Refer to the PC/ED manual for normal diagnosis.
b. Yes - replace the engine long block. Refer to WSM, Section 303-01C.
1. For prior approval warranty repairs, complete the cost cap tool by selecting short
block, both cylinder heads, oil cooler and 16 lifters.
#10
Actually it was the valve seat that cause the valve to break. The valve seat would "fall out" of the head. Then it would cause piston to valve issues that broke the valve.
If the build date of the truck is April 2011 or later, then there should be no issues with the valve seats. And not all early 2011's had a problem.
Re-conditioning fee? That is ridiculous. sounds like they are trying to maybe their money twice on a used vehicle.
Get the VIN and have the dealer do an OASIS report on the truck. This will tell you about any warranty work performed. Again, check the build date. If 1 April 2011 or later, then there should be no worries about the engine. Check the Engine Hours verses the Idle Hours. If high idle hours then you might want to reconsider but maybe not completely ignore the purchase.
Also, you have to remember, a forum is a limit subset of the 2011 truck owners. There might be 20 owners on the various forums or even as many as 100, that has had an engine problem. This is still a minor percentage considering how many 2011 trucks Ford built. A forum MAGNIFIES a problem that in the real world might be insignificant.
If the build date of the truck is April 2011 or later, then there should be no issues with the valve seats. And not all early 2011's had a problem.
Re-conditioning fee? That is ridiculous. sounds like they are trying to maybe their money twice on a used vehicle.
Get the VIN and have the dealer do an OASIS report on the truck. This will tell you about any warranty work performed. Again, check the build date. If 1 April 2011 or later, then there should be no worries about the engine. Check the Engine Hours verses the Idle Hours. If high idle hours then you might want to reconsider but maybe not completely ignore the purchase.
Also, you have to remember, a forum is a limit subset of the 2011 truck owners. There might be 20 owners on the various forums or even as many as 100, that has had an engine problem. This is still a minor percentage considering how many 2011 trucks Ford built. A forum MAGNIFIES a problem that in the real world might be insignificant.
#11
I am the original owner of my 2011 F350 and am happy with it. I don't recall what the build date is, I could look it up. I know it is a job 2 though - bought brand new in June of 11 (only miles on it were mine from the test drive when I bought it).
Any vehicle is going to require maintenance. The service the vehicle is in may affect the maintenance that is required (one hauling a 5th wheel at high miles will be different than a daily driver/unloaded truck, for example).
In my case, my truck has been a daily driver. I have over 155,000 miles on it now.
The warranty work that has been done to it is as follows:
2 EGR cooler cores. The second one the housing was replaced also as it was pitted. I do not recall if the EGR valve was replaced, it is possible.
Primary radiator replaced
EGT sensor failure/replacement (killed the truck in the driveway - towed to dealer).
The front end had some attention a couple years ago. I do not recall what was replaced or adjusted. I had an alignment done a few years back as the truck was pulling a bit to the right, but that was a separate deal from the front end work more recently.
I replaced the EGR cooler core a bit over a month ago - out of warranty so I did the job. I did not replace the EGR valve and I am not getting any codes pertaining to it yet.
The front end is very loose on the truck right now. I am working on replacing all the steering components here shortly.
There are already quite a few good notes on things to be aware of with the 2011's. and 6.7's in general, listed. Watch the coolant level. Check for leaks. You could even have the dealer do a vacuum test and show you it holds pressure to be sure.
The high pressure fuel pump in the 6.7's is susceptible to water intrusion-related failures. This can be caused by emulsified water (dissolved in the fuel and able to make it past the water separator). In some research I've done recently it looks like the 2015+ MY pumps are built with a bit higher capacity, but it does not sound like there are any big changes in materials that would lesson the issues caused by water intrusion.
The OASIS report should show any service bulletins that have been done also. There was one I had for the transmission programming a long time ago, I do not recall what it was.
The biggest fear I have with the truck is the high pressure fuel pump. I have used PM22 additive in every tank since very early in my ownership - within the first year. Aside from that, I don't really have any big concerns. It is a vehicle and full of mechanical stuff so it will take some maintenance. The hard part is that it can be anyone's guess what is going to fail or wear out and when. There are some measures you can do to take care of some of the common wear items and failure points before you run in to a problem, but that is an additional expense. For example, I was looking at $3,000-4,000 to rebuild the front end on my truck to have it done. I am tackling the project myself instead, buying some tools I dont have, and am still saving about $1500. Some of the parts in the repair may not be "bad", but since it is getting torn apart I am replacing them - hubs and ball joints namely (tie rod ends, track bar, and drag link are most of the worn out parts causing my problems).
Others have mentioned the CAC pipe, cold side. That is an upgrade on my list. Turbo, EGR valve, and high pressure fuel pump are also on the list.
Make sure the transmission has been flushed in its history. I am thinking mine was at one point, I will have to check my records again and see. Some say to do this every 30-40,000 miles. Mine has certainly not been done that often.
I hope this helps some. Welcome and hopefully we'll see you around the 6.7L forum soon. That is a pretty low price for that truck at those miles. As always, buyer beware. I, for one, am happy with my 2011.
Any vehicle is going to require maintenance. The service the vehicle is in may affect the maintenance that is required (one hauling a 5th wheel at high miles will be different than a daily driver/unloaded truck, for example).
In my case, my truck has been a daily driver. I have over 155,000 miles on it now.
The warranty work that has been done to it is as follows:
2 EGR cooler cores. The second one the housing was replaced also as it was pitted. I do not recall if the EGR valve was replaced, it is possible.
Primary radiator replaced
EGT sensor failure/replacement (killed the truck in the driveway - towed to dealer).
The front end had some attention a couple years ago. I do not recall what was replaced or adjusted. I had an alignment done a few years back as the truck was pulling a bit to the right, but that was a separate deal from the front end work more recently.
I replaced the EGR cooler core a bit over a month ago - out of warranty so I did the job. I did not replace the EGR valve and I am not getting any codes pertaining to it yet.
The front end is very loose on the truck right now. I am working on replacing all the steering components here shortly.
There are already quite a few good notes on things to be aware of with the 2011's. and 6.7's in general, listed. Watch the coolant level. Check for leaks. You could even have the dealer do a vacuum test and show you it holds pressure to be sure.
The high pressure fuel pump in the 6.7's is susceptible to water intrusion-related failures. This can be caused by emulsified water (dissolved in the fuel and able to make it past the water separator). In some research I've done recently it looks like the 2015+ MY pumps are built with a bit higher capacity, but it does not sound like there are any big changes in materials that would lesson the issues caused by water intrusion.
The OASIS report should show any service bulletins that have been done also. There was one I had for the transmission programming a long time ago, I do not recall what it was.
The biggest fear I have with the truck is the high pressure fuel pump. I have used PM22 additive in every tank since very early in my ownership - within the first year. Aside from that, I don't really have any big concerns. It is a vehicle and full of mechanical stuff so it will take some maintenance. The hard part is that it can be anyone's guess what is going to fail or wear out and when. There are some measures you can do to take care of some of the common wear items and failure points before you run in to a problem, but that is an additional expense. For example, I was looking at $3,000-4,000 to rebuild the front end on my truck to have it done. I am tackling the project myself instead, buying some tools I dont have, and am still saving about $1500. Some of the parts in the repair may not be "bad", but since it is getting torn apart I am replacing them - hubs and ball joints namely (tie rod ends, track bar, and drag link are most of the worn out parts causing my problems).
Others have mentioned the CAC pipe, cold side. That is an upgrade on my list. Turbo, EGR valve, and high pressure fuel pump are also on the list.
Make sure the transmission has been flushed in its history. I am thinking mine was at one point, I will have to check my records again and see. Some say to do this every 30-40,000 miles. Mine has certainly not been done that often.
I hope this helps some. Welcome and hopefully we'll see you around the 6.7L forum soon. That is a pretty low price for that truck at those miles. As always, buyer beware. I, for one, am happy with my 2011.
#12
#13
I am the second owner of a early build 2011 F450 King Ranch.
I read all about the 2011 problems and my own very unscientific research put the failure rate well below 1%. More like less than one in 1,000. Possibly less one in 10,000. Checked with several large dealer service departments and only one had one failure (if they are telling the truth). It does seem the cab and chassis where much more prone. Some have speculated that the extra fuel for DPF defense could have something to do with it.
I am very happy with mine. The difference between a 2011 and 2012 at the time was well over 15k, I took my chances and happy with the results (so far)
I did some research into replacing the heads as a preventive measure. Ford has remanded heads for the 6.7 for about $600 ea, I priced all the parts, AND both water pumps, and figured under $3000 in parts, less of you shop around. These are all Ford parts. So a known quality.
I think you could find a reputable shop to do the labor for under $2k (if you cant fo it yourself). Add $5k to you price and see if it makes sense.
also the biggest upgrade to the engine is in 2015, different turbo and high pressure fuel system. I believe 2014 all the superdutys went from 13.5" to 14.4" brake rotors
I read all about the 2011 problems and my own very unscientific research put the failure rate well below 1%. More like less than one in 1,000. Possibly less one in 10,000. Checked with several large dealer service departments and only one had one failure (if they are telling the truth). It does seem the cab and chassis where much more prone. Some have speculated that the extra fuel for DPF defense could have something to do with it.
I am very happy with mine. The difference between a 2011 and 2012 at the time was well over 15k, I took my chances and happy with the results (so far)
I did some research into replacing the heads as a preventive measure. Ford has remanded heads for the 6.7 for about $600 ea, I priced all the parts, AND both water pumps, and figured under $3000 in parts, less of you shop around. These are all Ford parts. So a known quality.
I think you could find a reputable shop to do the labor for under $2k (if you cant fo it yourself). Add $5k to you price and see if it makes sense.
also the biggest upgrade to the engine is in 2015, different turbo and high pressure fuel system. I believe 2014 all the superdutys went from 13.5" to 14.4" brake rotors
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