Looking at a 6.7
Having been a 7.3 owner, looking for some advice as to what to look for when at the dealer. Price seems decent. They have a little statement that says price does not include $1,495 recondition fee. Damn I hate when dealerships do that but think I can negotiate around that. It seems dealers are not big on coming down on price down here in Texas.
Any help would be apppriciated.
Steve
Just curious. Problem is I can't afford the asking prices for anything much newer. Even NADA says this truck is worth $28,500 retail. Just can afford $30,000 plus. $25,000 is pushing it.
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Just trying to help, so you are aware of the risk. Could be why the truck is priced this way. Educated shoppers know the issue around a 2011 truck that has some miles on it.
bruce...
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
6.7L DIESEL - RUNS ROUGH - NO CRANK - GLOW PLUG CIRCUIT DIAGNOSTIC
TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) - BUILT ON OR BEFORE 3/29/2011
TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN
Reference Number(s): 14-0127, Date of Issue: July 3, 2014
Superceded Bulletin(s): 12-11-11, Date of Issue: November 16, 2012
Related Ref Number(s): 12-11-11, 14-0127
ARTICLE BEGINNING
ISSUE
Some 2011 F-Super Duty vehicles equipped with a 6.7L diesel engine and built on or before
3/29/2011 may exhibit a runs rough or no crank concern due to a broken exhaust valve. DTCs P0671,
P0672, P0673, P0674, P0675, P0676, P0677 and/or P0678 may be stored in the powertrain control
module (PCM) from a damaged glow plug. The glow plug circuit DTCs may also be accompanied by
cylinder misfire DTCs, cylinder contribution DTCs or other engine performance DTCs.
ACTION
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Does the vehicle exhibit a runs rough, no crank concern with any of the following DTCs
P0671, P0672, P0673, P0674, P0675, P0676, P0677 and/or P0678?
a. No - this article does not apply. Refer to the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis
(PC/ED) manual for normal diagnosis.
b. Yes - proceed to Step 2.
2. Remove and inspect the glow plug associated with glow plug circuit DTC present. Refer to
Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 303-07C. Is the glow plug damaged?
a. No - this article does not apply. Refer to the PC/ED manual for normal diagnosis.
b. Yes - replace the engine long block. Refer to WSM, Section 303-01C.
1. For prior approval warranty repairs, complete the cost cap tool by selecting short
block, both cylinder heads, oil cooler and 16 lifters.
If the build date of the truck is April 2011 or later, then there should be no issues with the valve seats. And not all early 2011's had a problem.
Re-conditioning fee? That is ridiculous. sounds like they are trying to maybe their money twice on a used vehicle.
Get the VIN and have the dealer do an OASIS report on the truck. This will tell you about any warranty work performed. Again, check the build date. If 1 April 2011 or later, then there should be no worries about the engine. Check the Engine Hours verses the Idle Hours. If high idle hours then you might want to reconsider but maybe not completely ignore the purchase.
Also, you have to remember, a forum is a limit subset of the 2011 truck owners. There might be 20 owners on the various forums or even as many as 100, that has had an engine problem. This is still a minor percentage considering how many 2011 trucks Ford built. A forum MAGNIFIES a problem that in the real world might be insignificant.
Any vehicle is going to require maintenance. The service the vehicle is in may affect the maintenance that is required (one hauling a 5th wheel at high miles will be different than a daily driver/unloaded truck, for example).
In my case, my truck has been a daily driver. I have over 155,000 miles on it now.
The warranty work that has been done to it is as follows:
2 EGR cooler cores. The second one the housing was replaced also as it was pitted. I do not recall if the EGR valve was replaced, it is possible.
Primary radiator replaced
EGT sensor failure/replacement (killed the truck in the driveway - towed to dealer).
The front end had some attention a couple years ago. I do not recall what was replaced or adjusted. I had an alignment done a few years back as the truck was pulling a bit to the right, but that was a separate deal from the front end work more recently.
I replaced the EGR cooler core a bit over a month ago - out of warranty so I did the job. I did not replace the EGR valve and I am not getting any codes pertaining to it yet.
The front end is very loose on the truck right now. I am working on replacing all the steering components here shortly.
There are already quite a few good notes on things to be aware of with the 2011's. and 6.7's in general, listed. Watch the coolant level. Check for leaks. You could even have the dealer do a vacuum test and show you it holds pressure to be sure.
The high pressure fuel pump in the 6.7's is susceptible to water intrusion-related failures. This can be caused by emulsified water (dissolved in the fuel and able to make it past the water separator). In some research I've done recently it looks like the 2015+ MY pumps are built with a bit higher capacity, but it does not sound like there are any big changes in materials that would lesson the issues caused by water intrusion.
The OASIS report should show any service bulletins that have been done also. There was one I had for the transmission programming a long time ago, I do not recall what it was.
The biggest fear I have with the truck is the high pressure fuel pump. I have used PM22 additive in every tank since very early in my ownership - within the first year. Aside from that, I don't really have any big concerns. It is a vehicle and full of mechanical stuff so it will take some maintenance. The hard part is that it can be anyone's guess what is going to fail or wear out and when. There are some measures you can do to take care of some of the common wear items and failure points before you run in to a problem, but that is an additional expense. For example, I was looking at $3,000-4,000 to rebuild the front end on my truck to have it done. I am tackling the project myself instead, buying some tools I dont have, and am still saving about $1500. Some of the parts in the repair may not be "bad", but since it is getting torn apart I am replacing them - hubs and ball joints namely (tie rod ends, track bar, and drag link are most of the worn out parts causing my problems).
Others have mentioned the CAC pipe, cold side. That is an upgrade on my list. Turbo, EGR valve, and high pressure fuel pump are also on the list.
Make sure the transmission has been flushed in its history. I am thinking mine was at one point, I will have to check my records again and see. Some say to do this every 30-40,000 miles. Mine has certainly not been done that often.
I hope this helps some. Welcome and hopefully we'll see you around the 6.7L forum soon. That is a pretty low price for that truck at those miles. As always, buyer beware. I, for one, am happy with my 2011.
I read all about the 2011 problems and my own very unscientific research put the failure rate well below 1%. More like less than one in 1,000. Possibly less one in 10,000. Checked with several large dealer service departments and only one had one failure (if they are telling the truth). It does seem the cab and chassis where much more prone. Some have speculated that the extra fuel for DPF defense could have something to do with it.
I am very happy with mine. The difference between a 2011 and 2012 at the time was well over 15k, I took my chances and happy with the results (so far)
I did some research into replacing the heads as a preventive measure. Ford has remanded heads for the 6.7 for about $600 ea, I priced all the parts, AND both water pumps, and figured under $3000 in parts, less of you shop around. These are all Ford parts. So a known quality.
I think you could find a reputable shop to do the labor for under $2k (if you cant fo it yourself). Add $5k to you price and see if it makes sense.
also the biggest upgrade to the engine is in 2015, different turbo and high pressure fuel system. I believe 2014 all the superdutys went from 13.5" to 14.4" brake rotors









