Do you have a factory service manual? They are infinitely handy references. This should get you going in the right direction. Refer to Part 8-1 Section 2



Chad

 

 

I don't think you need the tool just bring them to zero lash like the manual says and tighten them 1 1/2 turns.

 

 

I have a 240 that has some chatter from the rockers. I have adjusted them following the manual procedure. This is my first time doing this. I started the truck briefly and still has some noise. Is it ok to start a cold engine and adjust them while the engine is running and warming up? I also do not have the tool, but do have a feeler gauge.

Thanks

 

Unfortunately you can't adjust hydraulic lifters with a feeler gauge. Or with the engine running. There are illustrations in the shop manual depicting how they work. Basically what you are trying to do when you adjust them is collapse the lifter to about 1/2 of it's travel. Taking them to zero lash by feel then going 1 1/2 turns tighter on the adjuster nut is usually close enough. You do have the option on that 6 cyl. to pull the side cover and visually check to see how much preload you have. If you have a noisy valve train after adjusting them it could be the lifters are worn out and bleeding down to fast. Severely worn valve guides can cause some noise that only a machine shop can cure. Also the type and grade of oil you are using can have an effect on how fast the lifters bleed down. But usually they are only noisy on start up when it is oil related. I have seen this happen more than once with people running Rotella in gas engines, lifters rattle on start up then quieten down, switch to a gas engine oil and the lifters got happy, no noise.

 

Can't say it's the same for the 6-cyl engines as it is for a typical V8 (or Corvair flat-6!) but I've adjusted many valves while the engine is running. It's messy, and you do need to go slow to let the lifter bleed down to the desired preload/depth setting, but it has worked on the hydraulic setups I've done.
Never did it to a Ford because the only ones I've done it on were the "set 'em and forget 'em" rocker arms.
I used to have special valve covers with holes drilled over each rocker nut to keep oil mostly inside the engine. A common special tool on the racks of most auto parts stores back in the day were rocker caps that clipped on to the rockers to deflect oil away from you while you were adjusting the rockers with the engine running.
I forget what they used to be called, but apparently they just call them deflectors now: Mr Gasket Rocker Oil Deflectors

But I really chimed in to mention something I've seen happen a lot to those on their first time setting lash. And that's the initial zero-lash setting by spinning a pushrod.
Again, can't say it for sure holds true for a Ford inline-6, but I bet it does. Do not use "until you can't spin the pushrod any more" as your zero lash setting. This can make it way too tight, as a pushrod can still be spun up in it's well lubricated socket/pocket in the rocker and lifter well beyond zero lash.
To get to zero lash, you need to use a gentle up-and-down movement as your guide, Not spinning.
As you move the pushrod up and down and feel it clicking while you turn down the nut on the rocker, you will feel the movement get smaller and smaller until it goes away completely. This is zero lash, and very likely you can still easily spin the pushrods with just your two fingers.

Anyway, just thought I'd come in even though it's late in the game and mention my experiences with valve adjustments.
Hope you all got your engines up and running perfectly.

Paul