I had a new CD/radio installed in my 86 F-250 about a year ago. If you don't let them install the radio the warranty is void. Yesterday I needed remove the driver side kick panel and grabbed a phillips screw driver to pull the washer head phillips screws to remove the kick panel. To my chagrin the original fasteners had been replaced with 7/32 nut driver screws. Now I'm hunting up a 7/32 socket...and I'm a little pissed off. Called the radio installer but that got me nowhere. The screws they put in are not the right diameter and only bite on the last thread. They're gonna fall out someday.

Can someone please tell me what the original screws for the kick panel were? There's three of them, phillips washer head. I think they were something close to 3/4" long maybe #8 washer head phillips screws.

Thanks,
Big Blue2

 

Isn't the hole in the plastic inset with a taper? If it is, it took a flat head phillips screw like this, and the screw fit down in the hole of the kickpanel.

Advance auto carries these, they are called trim panel screws.

 

The plastic kick panel is flat where the screws go through regular holes. The screw you show is very similar. Phillips washer head screws is what I have always called them as the screw head is integral with the washer. The kick panel is above the clutch, brake and accelerator pedals and the screws go up through the kick panel and up through the plastic dash trim and through to the metal framing of the dash.

Maybe I'll try the Ford Dealer Parts department though they sometimes look over their glasses at me when I say it's for an 86 F-250. Otherwise I'll browse what they have at the local auto parts store. I was hoping one of our parts experts would have the expanded drawing with the screw spec included...I like to keep it stock as much as possible.

 

 

What year is your truck packagerjr? How long are your screws?

 

 

N800942-S9 (replaced N800486-S) .. Metric M4.2 Self Tapping Screw - length from end of head to threaded end is 19mm.

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 291 = 800-543-4959.

 

Thank you Bill,That number for the screw is correct for the upper kick panel. Also the same as the side kick panels. Borrowed one from the side and tried it in the upper kick panel and it was correct!

Thanks to all who chimed in.

Big Blue2

 

I got my screws from Green Sales. They were not an exact match to the original to be expected as the number was changed ie replaced the original. I found them to be similar to the one that Dave posted a picture of. They were slightly shorter and slightly smaller diameter than the originals. The pitch was tighter than the ones the radio installer used and bit better so I'm using them...but not totally satisfied.

Remember when someone else works on your vintage truck be sure to tell them that they need to save and catalog all fasteners...cause getting replacements is not always easy.

 

So how much was the radio system that you had them do the install for the warranty?

Thanks for the warning but I am pretty sure no one will be touching, doing any work on my truck other than me.
Well maybe to do new tires, check toe and recharge the AC but I cant see much else after "I" rebuilt it.
Dave ----

 

It's always smarter and cheaper to DIY...but then I don't have a tire buster or front end alignment equipment either. I do have 260 AC which never needs recharging.

 

LOL 260 AC love it!
Up till I replaced the fire wall my truck i had 260 AC.
I don't have a vacuum pump or hoses to recharge the system when I get all the parts.

You know HF has a tire bead breaker. I did 4 tires to clean the beads so they would not leak ... they still leak. I don't have a balancer.
All that can be adjusted on mine, king pins, is toe and that can be set with a tape, 2 2x2 boards & 2 bungie cords to hold the 2x2 to the tires. Did it this way on race cars all the time.
Youtube has ways to check caster & camber using tools, level & protractor, in the garage.

260 AC that kills me!
Dave ----

ps wonder how many young ones know what 260 AC is?

 

That's like at a junk yard the fasteners are as important as the part

 

Original screw on the left and the Green Sales replacement on the right. After closer inspection they do appear to be the same diameter. The original was 1" long and the replacement is 3/4". Like I said it worked for me but the extra length was helpful getting the screws started since the clips have some slop in them. I borrowed one for the photo.

Dave, I took look at the HF tire buster. Looks like a cheap version of one I used to use when I worked at a service station as a kid. We had a bubble balance too. Didn't sell too many tires but repaired quite a few flats. It worked good. For the balance you set a couple tire weights over the rim till the bubble was centered. then install one on the outside and one on the inside. I wonder how it compares to a modern dynamic balancer? Since I have 9 rims and tires for my truck I take em to the tire store when I need new rubber.

As for 260 AC anyone who doesn't know can google it. There are no more unanswered questions. Glad you liked it! Also you were right about some of the interior panels having tapered holes. Mostly the tapered holes have regular screws with no integral washer. The side kick panel, where I borrowed the screw for the photo from has a tapered hole but uses a washer screw, just like the drawing Bill posted. The upper kick panel is made of different material and does have regular holes. My trim is XL. I suppose the various trim packages have some differences as well.

Big Blue 2

 

These are the guys you want.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-10-Ph...itleDesc=0%7C0