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2007 Multiple issues after rebuild

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Old Jul 17, 2018 | 09:37 AM
  #1  
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nd48463
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2007 Multiple issues after rebuild

I just picked up a 2007 Expedition with 200k miles and a fresh motor rebuild with about 2000 miles on it. The truck has several issues now. It is now throwing CAM Position codes on both banks, a vacuum leak code, and O2 sensor code. It also has lost all power at takeoff. If I put it in gear and floor the pedal, nothing happens. I have to gradually depress pedal. When i put it in gear and hold the brake, I can full depress the accelerator and the engine does nothing to pick up RPM. It seems like maybe something electrical. All internal components are new with the rebuild, so I am wondering if something was pinched or strained when pulling/settting the engine. Any recommendations on where to start? I checked the intake and could not find leaks, and I cleaned the MAF. I disconnected the battery and lets the caps drain and will restart this afternoon to see if it throws the same codes.

So symptoms are:

Hard start when cold
No response when mashing the accelerator pedal
Cam position sensor codes both banks
O2 sensor code
Large Emmisions leak code.


Any help or guidance??
Started with resetting the computer and next I am going to start by checking wiring for anything disconnected, damaged, etc. Also check vacuum lines to ensure nothing is damaged.

I will post the actual codes later.

Nate



 
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Old Jul 17, 2018 | 10:40 AM
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Matthew Gallagher
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Who did the rebuild? A reputable shop or was done by the owner? I’m wondering if the cams are out of time compared to the crankshaft.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2018 | 03:44 PM
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Did the car run without any problems during that 2,000 miles it had on the fresh motor rebuild?
Richard
 
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Old Jul 17, 2018 | 10:05 PM
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nd48463
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Rebuild was done reputable shop i was told. No paperwork though. It ran great for 2000 miles then started throwing codes and other symptoms. It also starts really hard after sitting like struggling for fuel. But always starts after 3- 4 seperate cranks. Motor sounds real good once it levels out. I reset pcm ladt no night and today only have p0345 cam sensor bank 2. Still no response on accelerator though. Once you get it sl ot wly up past 1500 rpm, its great. I am going to start looking at wiring and vacuum leaks. Also will check fuel pressure. Any
other recommendations?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2018 | 10:07 AM
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You may have more that one problem.
Do you have a scanner? If so, then check the fuel trims because they will prove if there is a vacuum leak. However the trims will not tell you where the vacuum leak is. (There are some tutorials on youtube regarding fuel trim interpretation).
Find out how to test the bank 2 cam sensor without removing the valve cover if possible.
Before cranking the engine, turn the key on to run, and let the fuel pump run a few seconds before cranking. This will restore the fuel pressure if it has leaked down.
Check the fuel pressure at the Schrader valve.
Good luck,
Richard
 
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Old Jul 18, 2018 | 09:59 PM
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Trouble codes


Data at idle
 
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Old Jul 19, 2018 | 08:34 PM
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I started tracing wires and checking voltages tonight. I get no voltage at either wire on either cam sensor. I do get continuity all the back to the pcm though. Found one of the factory connectors was replaced with a new one spliced in. The one on the passenger side. It looks like the original had a shielded wire with ground, but tha
t was taped up.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2018 | 05:43 PM
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Ok, I see some data. Will your scanner show live data while running?
The reading on your scanner shows that STFT1 is short term fuel trim bank one and it is at 2.3%
To diagnose you need to see and compare these readings:
STFT1 this is short term fuel trim bank one
STFT2 this is short term fuel trim bank two
LTFT1 this is long term fuel trim bank one
LTFT2 this is long term fuel trim bank two

At idle without a vacuum leak LTFT1 and LTFT2 should be around 0% and steady
At idle without a vacuum leak STFT1 and STFT2 should be around 0% but scrolling up and down -5% to +5% Maybe even a little more or less.
Bringing the engine up to 2,000 rpm the LTFT1 and 2 should go up but gradually return to 0% while the STFT1 and 2 scroll up and down while cycling over and under 0%.

Now with a vacuum leak:
At idle both STFT1 and 2 will cycle above and below 0%.
LTFT 1 or 2 or both will be above 0%, the higher % above 0% the greater the vacuum leak. The banks may not show equal percentages if there is a leak only one side.
Bringing the engine up to 2,000 rpm the LTFT1 and 2 will not come back down to 0% while the STFT1 and 2 will cycle above and below 0%.
Back to idle: If one or both banks have a LTFT above 0% then the one or both banks have a vacuum leak.

Here is a good tutorial. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=long+and+short+term+fuel+trims+explained& view=detail&mid=2AFE46160066ACBB87F82AFE46160066AC BB87F8&FORM=VIRE
I hope I explained well enough for you to understand.
Richard
 

Last edited by gwcloud; Jul 20, 2018 at 06:04 PM. Reason: correcting grammer
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Old Jul 20, 2018 | 09:13 PM
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I think i got the vacuum leak. I need to figure out why i am getting zero voltage to the cam sensors. I fear it may be a bad pcm.
 
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