First off I would like to thank everybody that posts to this site. I started with no compression on 2 cylinders and 12 codes on the PCM. After reading a lot of posts, I now have a new long block, new O2 sensors, new MAF, cleaned IAC, new DPFE, cleaned EGR valve, new EGR solenoid, and new CKP. I found a used PCM on eBay for $20. Swapped it with mine (reason was that I could not get the other unit to clear codes, assumed it was bad). Part numbers matched exactly.

I started with the KOEO codes in order, testing each component before just replacing, and all KOEO codes are now clear. Summary of codes now:

KOEO - 111
CM - 214
KOER - 111

From what I have read on other posts, CM code 214 indicates a camshaft position sensor. Engine code X indicates my truck does not have this sensor. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor even though it checked OK, thinking maybe it was an intermittent problem. I can clear the CM code, rerun and get 111 on all three tests. As soon as I start the motor I get the CEL, and 214 is back. I downloaded and checked the 1995 text gtest.pdf and it told me the same thing, that 214 is the CMP. If anybody can help me with this I would greatly appreciate it. Truck is running great, but I need to clear this last code. And I refuse to take to the dealer - I've come too far for that! Truck has 97K miles but runs like a new one.

Thanks.

 

Runs like new - didn't you say it has a new long block?

Anyway, 1994 4.0 all 50 states came with a Cam position sensor. If you were getting a memory code for a cam sensor, then Ford must have thought there'd be on on the car right?

But you're not getting a cam code, not by my list anyway. (www.fordfuelinjecton.com) It's a cylinder identification error. Sometimes generated by an error in spark delivery or input itself from the crank sensor into the ICM, ignition control module.

The 111 results for KOEO, KOER just means that during those tests, the items tested did not show any unexpected results. Not all items are tested so it's possible to get 111 all OK code and still through a CEL and a DTC, just like you are seeing.

214 is a memory code which means it gets stored when the car is running and the error occurs. To clear, you need to remove power from KAM - keep alive memory for 10 minutes. All the capacitors drain and the memory is lost. EEC-IV's didn't have permanent flash memory as is available today. So Ford had to power KAM continuously off the battery. So either disconnect the battery or pull the PCM fuse (keep you radio presets that way). Now that your original PCM has been removed, the codes are cleared. Try putting it back in and see if the 214 goes away. Maybe the $20 Ebay special is bad. If code persists, need to start looking into the crank sensor/ICM/Cam sensor/coil circuitry.

 

Jharger,
Thanks for the reply. New long block as well as new tires, brakes, bearings, and many others. I bought it new and have tried to keep it in good shape.

Fordfuelinjection .com is one of my goto sites now. I read there that 214 is a CM code for CID. I am going by other posts here that say this means a CMP error. It also says the same in gtest.pdf whichI found on this site. But it is for a 1995 explorer that does have the CMP. I don't suppose you know what else I should be checking? You said in your post check "crank sensor/ICM/Cam sensor/coil circuitry". I have voltage at the crank sensor. It is also new. Not sure how to test other than that. When I had the engine done they installed a new coil, rotor, distribitor cap, and wires.

My understanding is that to clear CM codes you remove the jumper anytime during the KOEO/CM test. This seems to work, but I have also taken the neg battery cable off many times in trying to fix this. It does reset, codes read 111, 111, 111, until I start it up. Then 214 comes back.

I will try swapping out the PCM tomorrow, but I suspect the problem lies elswhere. The old PCM had 5 or 6 codes that would not go away, even though I knew the sensors were good. Swapped it out and everything cleared right out. But maybe a good rest has rejuvinated it!

Again thanks for the help. I know I will figure this out but it is a pain. Of course I am now out of pocket way more than the truck is worth but it should go another 100k without too much more! I hope!

 

Good idea to have multiple sources for info. I am getting a 341 code on KOEO test run with the SCT chip switched to one of the tune, or non stock, positions. Fordfuelinjection.com says it's feedback letting you know the octane shorting bar is installed. Another source I have from dalidesign.com says the bar is missing or the circuit is otherwise open - 2 opposite conditions. Well the car seems to run fine in the tune mode so I'm kind of leaning towards the fordfuelinjection.com description on this one.

You mentioned money - it's not about the money at this point is it? It's all about problem solving and making something better than it was before and a sense of accomplishment - it's not supposed to make financial sense. As a Jetski owner, I know this too well.

OK. If you have a 1994 Explorer you do have a cam position sensor. I did a lot of research on this a few months ago for someone swapping a 94 motor into a 91 truck. Swapped the entire EFI harness and set it up to run sequential fuel injection instead of the old multiport fuel injection. Unless there's something goofy about your car of course. It is located passenger side rear, next to valve cover. Hard to see but you can feel it and see the wiring harness coming off it.

Oh hey - I hope you didn't pay too much for that rotor and distributor cap because, you don't have a distributor.

My other source for codes verifies the web one we saw. It's an electrical issue with the ignition system. If you go to autozone.com, you can look up a schematic and see those parts I was talking about. You can disconnect the cam sensor and the car will still start and run. See if the code goes away - then problem is with that sensor. Might be bad sensor, might have been a loose or oil fouled connector. You can do this test because the cam sensor is a secondary input to spark control. First input is from crank sensor.

But you'll have to figure out ways to eliminate different components like this. Since you get the CEL and code immediately after starting the truck, a wiggle test wont really help. Sometimes, for intermittent issues, you can start it up and have someone watch the CEL. Then you go start wiggling all the suspect connectors and see if one throws CEL - now you would know where to start looking.

Your old PCM does then sound bad. If it showed a bunch of codes and swapping it out dropped the codes with no other changes, pretty good sign the original PCM is bad. We have been seeing a lot of PCM posts the last few months. I think the Gen 1 explorers are now getting to an age where the internal elecronics on the PCM board are starting to fail - just like a mother board will do eventually if you kept a computer for 10-15 years. Anyway, if you have the time, it's a free test to pop it back in. So when you said the codes would not clear, you meant they kept comming back - that I understand.

Give me the part number off your PCM. I have an old TSB that might have alternative numbers you can use - with the same tune or maybe an updated tune burned into the chip. Could give you more to look for if you need to get yet a 3rd PCM. Looking fo F47F-12A650-CMA type of number.

 

OK you are correct! I got an extension mirror, crawled on top of the motor, looked where you said, and I do have a CMP. But I must say in my own defense I had some bad info. Autozone repair section says my motor does not have a CMP! Here is the link:

www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0d/3a/43/0900823d800d3a43.jsp

I also read that on other post here. But on to the complaints.

Could FORD have made this any harder to get to? I am 6'2" - 240 lbs and I cannot even get my arms back behind the motor. I did unplug it and checked for oil, cracked wires and it all looked ok. One new development since the plug removal: CEL now is off when engine running at idle. When I give'r the gas, it comes back on, but back to idle it goes off. I will try tonight to get in there and check the screws on the top of the sensor and make sure it is on there correctly. As I read the installation instructions on the Autozone website, I see that setting the No. 1 cylinder at 10° ATDC, then matchmark the CMP sensor terminal connector position with the engine assembly, is a critical step. It is possible that the shop that put in my motor did not follow this step. I will go by and check with them tomorrow. I did call the dealer and they want $110 for the sensor and $405 for labor to install it. They say you need to remove the intake manifold to get it out. Does this sound right?

Anyway thanks Jharger for educating me and I will post the results as soon as I find out which way this thing will end!

 

Replace Cams sensor - remove intake, remove engine, put big hole through your dash board - your pick. This thing is just like a distributor. There is a gear on the end that runs of the cam and the oil pump drive shaft goes up itno the middle of it from the bottom to drive the oil pump.

There's a thread on here were a guy swapped a 94 motor into a 91 truck and then had to run the 94 harness (and PCM) to connect the cam sensor. I don't think he had to remove it. You may to search for that and ask him if he did and how to do it.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=406904

User name is Gil Chesterton. I just bumped it up so it should be on page one of this forum.

I read the cam sensor positioning instructions too - not lookng forward to that my self if and when I rebuild my motor. OK so what codes are you geting? Throwing CEL should store some codes. If not, you'll have to run a dynamic test and whatch for different parameters like spark advance...to see if something looks fishy.

As far as OK at idle without CAM sensor plugged in, I wouldn't get too excited that you're on the right track, not yet anyway - depends on what codes you get. see, the cam sensor sends a signal to the PCM and then the PCM adjusts the spark timning curve as a result. As you see, you don't need a cam sensor to run the engine. There is enough info from the crank sensor and ICM to give a spark - even without the PCM believe it or not. So I think what might be happening here with your test so far is that you rev it up and there is no CAM signal and spark does not get the right advance and you might now be throwing a different code for "cam position signal not sensed" or something like that. the Cam sensor signal might not even be used in the idle spark curve tables so you may not get a code at idle because PCM's not looking for the signal. But do check he codes because if the 214 code went away - you're still pointing towards the CAM sensor as a possible, possible curplit.

Did you ever pop your old PCM in to see what happens?

 

Hello TMCM,

I briefly reviewed the posting between yourself and jharger. jharger has a great deal of knowledge about the early Explorers.

I have actually changed out a cam position sensor during my engine swap adventure. It's a pretty big job. I had the existing CMP but the wiring was damaged so I had to rebuild it. Ford wanted $650.00 for this part. I have recently found this part at a U-Pick yard and it cost me $20. I'll use it as a back-up in case my rebuilt one craps out (it took me 2hrs to get it out).

Anyway...

You have to go down to at least the upper intake manifold (removal). When I did the job I found it necessary to remove the valve covers and then the lower intake manifold (just to get access to the locking bolt and part). You need a Haynes manual to get the instructions for syncronizing the unit (it is well explained in Haynes as opposed to Chilton). You need to remove the plugs, set the engine to a certain position relative to TDC etc etc (buy the manual and you'll see what I mean).

I'm a relative novice and if I can do it anyone can. I can't tell you anything about the 214 code or if you need to swap this part but if you do need to change the part it's a bit of a job (~8 hrs).

Is there a drivability or emission related issue with the truck?

As far as I know the CMP is specific for the 1994 so you need to find a 94 in a wrecking yard to get the right part.

Let me know where you are at with your project and maybe I can help further.

Gil

 

Hey Gil - CMP specific for 1994 - does that mean the 1994 CPM sensor was different from the 91-93's? In CA, all years had PCM's (at least mine 93 does). Wondering if you found different Ford part numbers for this or if you just meant that CMP's were unique to 1994 Fed cars.

 

I'm talking non-cali.

All 91 - 93 I have seen have the oil pump portion of the part that inserts down into the motor to mesh with the camshaft (without the sensor fixed to the top). The 1994 (non-cali) is the only year I know that has a specific CPM. The 1995 is different too.

If TCMC can find a 91-93 CPM from a cali Ford that would be a great find and make things so much easier.

 

OH OK. I wondered how they turned the oil pump with no sensor. Housing is there but no sensor is all. Thanks!

 

Guys,
Thanks for the info Gil. I did talk to the mech who did my engine work. He was knowledgable about this sensor. He did say that the sensor changout was a snap, just a couple of screws. He would do it for me, no charge. Changing out the entire shaft assembly is another issue. Like you said, lots o work. He had one from another truck that he showed me. Seems that the shaft assembly would only be bad if it got stripped or something. Do you know if this sensor needs to be mached to the shaft for some reason? It has a slot to orient it so you cant put it on backwards. It seems to be a magnetic switch, as the gear spins it brings a magnet past the switch, giving an on/off status to determine the cam position. If it is just the sensor part that screws onto the shaft I am home free, just need to find it. Ford dealer here quoted $110 for the part. As far as I can tell there are no drivability of emmisions issues. Just the CEL. And I did recheck and the only code is 214. I am probably going to order it this week and see what happens. If I can get this thing off myself I may be able to get it tested. I'm just not sure if I can get to the screws. I will check out the salvage yard route. Maybe I can find one here. Thanks for all the help and I will post more as it develops.
Todd

 

Yes it's a hall effect sensor and that's exactly how it works.

Did you get the 214 code on the old PCM too? If not, it might be a bad PCM also.

 

I had most of my top end pulled apart so going back down to the lower intake manifold was not too big a deal. To do it now would be a big job so I won't even replace the rebuilt sensor with the new (scrapyard) unit because it is too much trouble. If the old one craps out I'll swap.

I suppose it is possible to replace just the top end of the unit (the wiring and sensor vane) but getting access when syncronizing it may be a different story. Step one of the installation procedure requires the insertion of the drive assembly into the engine with the engine at TDC (compression) for cylinder #1. The trailing edge of the sensor vane has to be lined up with the left edge marking on the sensor window. No big deal with or without the drive assembly. You could get to TDC and screw on the sensor with the vane in the required orientation. The trick is getting access. I had to remove most of the top end just to see what I was doing. Getting the hold down bolt off was near impossible until I removed the lower intake. If it is not rusted too bad you'll have an easier time. Rotating the drive assembly and getting a volt meter in there was tight too. From my experience it is easier to set the sensor vane in the sensor window and then insert the whole drive assembly down into the motor. The rest of the procedure seems complicated but is not too bad if you follow the instructions (Haynes page 6-18 and 6-19 "4.0L pushrod V6 and 5.0L V8 - 1995 and earlier"). Maybe a more experienced mechanic can do this in a more efficient manner with just the sensor unit (drive pre-installed).

IT IS POSSIBLE TO INSTALL AND SYNCRONIZE THE ENTIRE DRIVE/CPM COMBINATION WITHOUT REMOVING THE LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLD!! I had 1/2 the engine pulled apart so I removed the lower for the sake of convenience. The lower manifold bolts are never torqued down properly and you sometimes see vacuum leaks which lead to unstable idling (see numerous threads on "idle problems" on the FTE) so I didn't mind installing new gaskets and torquing it down properly.

Ford told me the electrical sensor was not sold seperately and I would need the whole drive gear and CPM unit.

 

TMCM - any update?

 

Jharger,

No update yet. I am going to go through the check proceedure this weekend to check the wiring. Once I get that done, and if it checks out ok, I will know that either it is a bad sensor or it was installed incorrectly when I had the rebuild done. That is the least likely, but possible. I expect I will be buying a new sensor soon and that will clear this up.
BTW-changing PCM did not clear the problem.

Once I get this resolved I will post results. Thanks for all the help!