I bought a beautiful 67 F100 with a 352 in it 4 wheel drive, manual transmission. I replace the plugs wires distributor timing chain and carburetor (600). It had skipped a tooth with the old chain. My problem is in first gear I can pull an 85 year old oak tree out of the ground. In second I sputter, back fire a bit, but corrects itself after the rpms get higher. I have tdc set at 8. Could I have possibly indtsledithr distributor a little off? It dropped right into place. I've got a mess of a project but I want to keep this motor. Every cylinder has great compression.

 

If you can turn the distributor and get the 8 degrees you wanted then everything there is fine. Do you have a dwell meter? I would be curious to see if the dwell changes with RPM. That would indicate a worn distributor bushing if it does, I have had those symptoms before with a worn distributor,

The other problem I have seen drive mechanics nuts is a defective condenser. Engine with crank and run great for a short time and then the ignition starts breaking up and huge power loss, Try sticking the old condenser back in.

 

Thank you for the reply. I do have a dwell meter but don't really know how to use it LOL. With the distributor being new I think the only thing I haven't replaced is the coil. And what's weird about that is there's a third wire off of it's not attached to anything. That does spark when grounded. Also for some odd reason the voltage regulator doesn't appear to be hooked up. I've got to replace all the wiring. Just going one step at a time

 

Carb issue? If new, that does not guaranteed it isn't a bum piece anymore. Something to think about.

If you have the timing set, it's good. Like mentioned, placement is only critical so you have enough rotation to set timing and rotor is pointing at #1 on the cap.

 

I did wonder about that. I did drop jets to 68's from 74's the plugs we're a bit light. The cylinders were so dirty from sitting before I thought I maybe I was way too rich. Yesterday the plugs were a bit white

 

You'll hear it a lot these days, but "new ain't necessarily good" is uttered almost on a daily basis.
Is it a standard points-type distributor? Or did you opt for some kind of electronic trigger?

On the coil? What color is that wire? You do have a volt-meter, correct? You can check it to see if it's hot all the time or only with the key on. But if it's a factory wire it will have an identifiable color combination.
If it's connected directly to a little capacitor/condenser thingy on the side of the coil, that's a radio noise suppressor. Of course, that should not spark when grounded because it's now powered. At least it should not spark more than once, if it's capable of holding a charge of some amount.
I mean, it is a capacitor after all. Maybe it can do that...

When you measure voltage at the battery when the engine is running, is it charging? You should see approx. 14.5v when the engine is running.
If you do see it charging and you have not experienced the battery going dead after cranking the starter or running the engine for awhile, chances are it's disconnected because a more modern internally regulated alternator has been installed.

Got pics of the under-hood area for us? Besides liking pics, we might be able to pick out some trouble areas, or identify the alternator if we can see it.

Good luck.

Paul

 

Wow that's a lot of great information thank you everyone for your help. I will post some pictures here shortly of the engine bay. The distributor is the original Style distributor. I ended up removing the extra wire from the coil and kept advancing timing a couple degrees. The more I advanced timing 1st sputtered and popped more while 2nd gear got better in lower rpms. Sure am hoping it's a small issue such as fuel but worried it could be something major.

 

Well 1st off, there has been a TON of bad condensers here the past couple years. Including in new or rebuilt Dizzys. I would replace your new made in china crap one for a Genuine Ford (Motorcraft) one. Still available from Ford. Part number C9AZ12300A (DC13A).
2nd of all, you say you put on a different 600 CFM carb? I'm assuming a Holley. Correct? New , rebuilt, or just used? With 68 jets because it had 74s? 74s are rich for a 750 let alone a 600. And plugs were white?
Me thinks you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Under the carb, internals of brake booster, etc.
If it is a Holley post a pic of the "List" number on the front of the carb's air horn.