Excursion - King of SUVs 2000 - 2005 Ford Excursion
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Fuel Pump and new Hitch Saga.

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  #16  
Old 07-16-2018, 09:15 AM
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Im getting ready to do similar job. I have the fuel filler tube and am dreading getting this started. I'm tempted to bring it to a shop and have them do it but know it will cost more than I want to pay. Looks like you doing a great job. Thanks for the pics!
 
  #17  
Old 07-16-2018, 02:59 PM
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The worse part of the filler neck was the dang hoses. They just did not want to come off. That is by far the worst part of it. Prying and probing with small screwdrivers until they were obviously loose did not seem to help. After all these years, they had molded themselves to fit the pipe. My old pipe had not corroded through, like on another thread, so I could not crush it to get it out. The reasoning I had to cut it at the time was that I was dropping the tank anyway. Now that I know, if I was just replacing the filler neck, I would cut the hoses anyway and drop the tank just to get new hoses on it. It would make the job easier (in my situation) in the long run and besides, the hoses are older than dirt. Again, now that I know, dropping the tank was not a bad job at all using the motorcycle jack. If I had just a normal jack, I think it would have been much more difficult, what with the tank able to flop around as it gets raised.
 
  #18  
Old 07-16-2018, 04:29 PM
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A local shop did my fuel pump of me, and now I'm wishing we had taken the hitch off, as it's rusting.

Does the gan tank and skid plate have to come out to remove the hitch? I'd like to pull mine and replace or have it powered coated.
 
  #19  
Old 07-16-2018, 06:46 PM
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You don't HAVE to remove the fuel tank to remover the hitch. Some people here have done it that way. They have to drill the two torque bolts out with drill bits. The fuel tank skid is partially in the way of the hitch bolts, but you can loosen the four fuel tank skid bolts and it will slide a small amount over to the side allowing access to the hitch bolts. Then slide it back again to remove the bolts on the other side.
 
  #20  
Old 07-17-2018, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by housedad
The worse part of the filler neck was the dang hoses. They just did not want to come off. That is by far the worst part of it. Prying and probing with small screwdrivers until they were obviously loose did not seem to help. After all these years, they had molded themselves to fit the pipe. My old pipe had not corroded through, like on another thread, so I could not crush it to get it out. The reasoning I had to cut it at the time was that I was dropping the tank anyway. Now that I know, if I was just replacing the filler neck, I would cut the hoses anyway and drop the tank just to get new hoses on it. It would make the job easier (in my situation) in the long run and besides, the hoses are older than dirt. Again, now that I know, dropping the tank was not a bad job at all using the motorcycle jack. If I had just a normal jack, I think it would have been much more difficult, what with the tank able to flop around as it gets raised.
I tried to order the hoses from fuel fuller neck place but they were not available. Was going to try and get them locally after removing the tank. I was planning to just cut them for convenience. I do have a motorcycle jack. You are convincing me to do it myself.Thanks
 
  #21  
Old 07-17-2018, 01:23 PM
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I cannot recommend hoses from the company in the links below. They are sub par and a rip off. See my thread Crappy Chinese hoses

You need 10 inches of this one:
1-1/2 flexible fuel hose Filler Neck Supply

And 16 inches of this one:
3/4 Filler neck Vent Hose Filler Neck Supply

The above is what I ordered. They are a inch longer than needed, so I could trim to fit the length of the old hose exactly. As you found, they did not have their 'kit' for the Excursion in stock when I ordered, but the above is the exact same thing and a lot cheaper.

First, install and clamp the hoses on the tank. Situate them so the natural curve they have from being on a reel matches the curve and locations of the OEM hose. When you are putting the fuel tank back into place in the Ex, you will have to make sure the hoses are bent up to clear the frame. First you get them bent to sit into the channel of the frame, then jack it up and bend them over the frame. I suggest using some lubricant on the inside of them and the outside of the metal tube to make them go on better. (and don't forget to put the clamps on the tube before you put the filler neck on the hose!) Use a 3/8 or 1/4 ratchet, a 7/16 socket and a long extension to tighten the clamps. It is easy to tighten too much with a ratchet. Be careful with that.
 
  #22  
Old 07-17-2018, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by housedad
You need 10 inches of this one:
1-1/2 flexible fuel hose Filler Neck Supply

And 16 inches of this one:
3/4 Filler neck Vent Hose Filler Neck Supply

The above is what I ordered. They are a inch longer than needed, so I could trim to fit the length of the old hose exactly. As you found, they did not have their 'kit' for the Excursion in stock when I ordered, but the above is the exact same thing and a lot cheaper.

First, install and clamp the hoses on the tank. Situate them so the natural curve they have from being on a reel matches the curve and locations of the OEM hose. When you are putting the fuel tank back into place in the Ex, you will have to make sure the hoses are bent up to clear the frame. First you get them bent to sit into the channel of the frame, then jack it up and bend them over the frame. I suggest using some lubricant on the inside of them and the outside of the metal tube to make them go on better. I used WD-40. (and don't forget to put the clamps on the tube before you put the filler neck on the hose!) Use a 3/8 or 1/4 ratchet, a 7/16 socket and a long extension to tighten the clamps. It is easy to tighten too much with a ratchet. Be careful with that.
Thank-you!! Gonna order them asap and do this myself this way I can take my time and clean all rust stuff up.
 
  #23  
Old 07-17-2018, 03:39 PM
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Thanks for the input on the hitch...maybe closer to winter I'll put that on my list. I'll check with the dealer for replacement hardware. I had originally planned on having my hitch powder coated, but I'll check with the dealer about a new one, too.
 
  #24  
Old 07-17-2018, 04:38 PM
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There is now an aftermarket hitch. The OEM Ford part is discontinued.
The OEM Bolts are still available via dealers and Ebay. Ford Part number W708772S439

Nut Plate for hitch bolts: W709318S441

New aftermarket hitches at Etrailer: The Curt is similar to OEM. The Torklift is if you are slightly insane.

2005 Excursion hitches Etrailer

Edit: Apparently I was using the wrong part number when searching for a Excursion OEM hitch. They ARE available at a rather high price. Between $425 to $500. Part number YC3Z-17D826-AB.
 
  #25  
Old 07-17-2018, 08:40 PM
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Thanks...great info!
 
  #26  
Old 07-18-2018, 11:41 AM
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Did you just "give a mouse a cookie" your way into a new exhaust?
 
  #27  
Old 07-18-2018, 02:13 PM
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Stupid question. I looked up the bolts and nut plates and you have to purchase them separately? so I will need 4 plates and 8 bolts? thanks
 
  #28  
Old 07-18-2018, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ithaca1230
Stupid question. I looked up the bolts and nut plates and you have to purchase them separately? so I will need 4 plates and 8 bolts? thanks
Yep, separately.
 
  #29  
Old 07-18-2018, 07:48 PM
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Anyone know what size the bolts are? I’m not a welder and not putting the break-off bolts back in.
 
  #30  
Old 07-18-2018, 11:08 PM
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M18 -10.9 flange bolt

18mm
10.9 metric hardness grade

If you break or strip the nut plates, you need to get another one. Removing and installing the hitch without nut plates would be a major pain without dropping the fuel tank out.
The OEM Bolts are $3.00 ea. and the nut plates are $11.28 ea. at Tasca parts. It takes 8 bolts and 4 nut plates.

If you are getting the Curt or Torklift, they come with all the bolts and hardware to install.
 


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