Fuel Pump and new Hitch Saga.
#16
#17
The worse part of the filler neck was the dang hoses. They just did not want to come off. That is by far the worst part of it. Prying and probing with small screwdrivers until they were obviously loose did not seem to help. After all these years, they had molded themselves to fit the pipe. My old pipe had not corroded through, like on another thread, so I could not crush it to get it out. The reasoning I had to cut it at the time was that I was dropping the tank anyway. Now that I know, if I was just replacing the filler neck, I would cut the hoses anyway and drop the tank just to get new hoses on it. It would make the job easier (in my situation) in the long run and besides, the hoses are older than dirt. Again, now that I know, dropping the tank was not a bad job at all using the motorcycle jack. If I had just a normal jack, I think it would have been much more difficult, what with the tank able to flop around as it gets raised.
#18
#19
You don't HAVE to remove the fuel tank to remover the hitch. Some people here have done it that way. They have to drill the two torque bolts out with drill bits. The fuel tank skid is partially in the way of the hitch bolts, but you can loosen the four fuel tank skid bolts and it will slide a small amount over to the side allowing access to the hitch bolts. Then slide it back again to remove the bolts on the other side.
#20
The worse part of the filler neck was the dang hoses. They just did not want to come off. That is by far the worst part of it. Prying and probing with small screwdrivers until they were obviously loose did not seem to help. After all these years, they had molded themselves to fit the pipe. My old pipe had not corroded through, like on another thread, so I could not crush it to get it out. The reasoning I had to cut it at the time was that I was dropping the tank anyway. Now that I know, if I was just replacing the filler neck, I would cut the hoses anyway and drop the tank just to get new hoses on it. It would make the job easier (in my situation) in the long run and besides, the hoses are older than dirt. Again, now that I know, dropping the tank was not a bad job at all using the motorcycle jack. If I had just a normal jack, I think it would have been much more difficult, what with the tank able to flop around as it gets raised.
#21
I cannot recommend hoses from the company in the links below. They are sub par and a rip off. See my thread Crappy Chinese hoses
You need 10 inches of this one:
1-1/2 flexible fuel hose Filler Neck Supply
And 16 inches of this one:
3/4 Filler neck Vent Hose Filler Neck Supply
The above is what I ordered. They are a inch longer than needed, so I could trim to fit the length of the old hose exactly. As you found, they did not have their 'kit' for the Excursion in stock when I ordered, but the above is the exact same thing and a lot cheaper.
First, install and clamp the hoses on the tank. Situate them so the natural curve they have from being on a reel matches the curve and locations of the OEM hose. When you are putting the fuel tank back into place in the Ex, you will have to make sure the hoses are bent up to clear the frame. First you get them bent to sit into the channel of the frame, then jack it up and bend them over the frame. I suggest using some lubricant on the inside of them and the outside of the metal tube to make them go on better. (and don't forget to put the clamps on the tube before you put the filler neck on the hose!) Use a 3/8 or 1/4 ratchet, a 7/16 socket and a long extension to tighten the clamps. It is easy to tighten too much with a ratchet. Be careful with that.
You need 10 inches of this one:
1-1/2 flexible fuel hose Filler Neck Supply
And 16 inches of this one:
3/4 Filler neck Vent Hose Filler Neck Supply
The above is what I ordered. They are a inch longer than needed, so I could trim to fit the length of the old hose exactly. As you found, they did not have their 'kit' for the Excursion in stock when I ordered, but the above is the exact same thing and a lot cheaper.
First, install and clamp the hoses on the tank. Situate them so the natural curve they have from being on a reel matches the curve and locations of the OEM hose. When you are putting the fuel tank back into place in the Ex, you will have to make sure the hoses are bent up to clear the frame. First you get them bent to sit into the channel of the frame, then jack it up and bend them over the frame. I suggest using some lubricant on the inside of them and the outside of the metal tube to make them go on better. (and don't forget to put the clamps on the tube before you put the filler neck on the hose!) Use a 3/8 or 1/4 ratchet, a 7/16 socket and a long extension to tighten the clamps. It is easy to tighten too much with a ratchet. Be careful with that.
#22
You need 10 inches of this one:
1-1/2 flexible fuel hose Filler Neck Supply
And 16 inches of this one:
3/4 Filler neck Vent Hose Filler Neck Supply
The above is what I ordered. They are a inch longer than needed, so I could trim to fit the length of the old hose exactly. As you found, they did not have their 'kit' for the Excursion in stock when I ordered, but the above is the exact same thing and a lot cheaper.
First, install and clamp the hoses on the tank. Situate them so the natural curve they have from being on a reel matches the curve and locations of the OEM hose. When you are putting the fuel tank back into place in the Ex, you will have to make sure the hoses are bent up to clear the frame. First you get them bent to sit into the channel of the frame, then jack it up and bend them over the frame. I suggest using some lubricant on the inside of them and the outside of the metal tube to make them go on better. I used WD-40. (and don't forget to put the clamps on the tube before you put the filler neck on the hose!) Use a 3/8 or 1/4 ratchet, a 7/16 socket and a long extension to tighten the clamps. It is easy to tighten too much with a ratchet. Be careful with that.
1-1/2 flexible fuel hose Filler Neck Supply
And 16 inches of this one:
3/4 Filler neck Vent Hose Filler Neck Supply
The above is what I ordered. They are a inch longer than needed, so I could trim to fit the length of the old hose exactly. As you found, they did not have their 'kit' for the Excursion in stock when I ordered, but the above is the exact same thing and a lot cheaper.
First, install and clamp the hoses on the tank. Situate them so the natural curve they have from being on a reel matches the curve and locations of the OEM hose. When you are putting the fuel tank back into place in the Ex, you will have to make sure the hoses are bent up to clear the frame. First you get them bent to sit into the channel of the frame, then jack it up and bend them over the frame. I suggest using some lubricant on the inside of them and the outside of the metal tube to make them go on better. I used WD-40. (and don't forget to put the clamps on the tube before you put the filler neck on the hose!) Use a 3/8 or 1/4 ratchet, a 7/16 socket and a long extension to tighten the clamps. It is easy to tighten too much with a ratchet. Be careful with that.
#23
#24
There is now an aftermarket hitch. The OEM Ford part is discontinued.
The OEM Bolts are still available via dealers and Ebay. Ford Part number W708772S439
Nut Plate for hitch bolts: W709318S441
New aftermarket hitches at Etrailer: The Curt is similar to OEM. The Torklift is if you are slightly insane.
2005 Excursion hitches Etrailer
Edit: Apparently I was using the wrong part number when searching for a Excursion OEM hitch. They ARE available at a rather high price. Between $425 to $500. Part number YC3Z-17D826-AB.
The OEM Bolts are still available via dealers and Ebay. Ford Part number W708772S439
Nut Plate for hitch bolts: W709318S441
New aftermarket hitches at Etrailer: The Curt is similar to OEM. The Torklift is if you are slightly insane.
2005 Excursion hitches Etrailer
Edit: Apparently I was using the wrong part number when searching for a Excursion OEM hitch. They ARE available at a rather high price. Between $425 to $500. Part number YC3Z-17D826-AB.
#26
#28
#30
M18 -10.9 flange bolt
18mm
10.9 metric hardness grade
If you break or strip the nut plates, you need to get another one. Removing and installing the hitch without nut plates would be a major pain without dropping the fuel tank out.
The OEM Bolts are $3.00 ea. and the nut plates are $11.28 ea. at Tasca parts. It takes 8 bolts and 4 nut plates.
If you are getting the Curt or Torklift, they come with all the bolts and hardware to install.
18mm
10.9 metric hardness grade
If you break or strip the nut plates, you need to get another one. Removing and installing the hitch without nut plates would be a major pain without dropping the fuel tank out.
The OEM Bolts are $3.00 ea. and the nut plates are $11.28 ea. at Tasca parts. It takes 8 bolts and 4 nut plates.
If you are getting the Curt or Torklift, they come with all the bolts and hardware to install.