Hey guys,

I know this has been discussed a million times over but I'm really running out of ideas here and need your help. Before someone jumps up and screams at me for not going to the tech folder first, I did, many many times. I read and re-read the threads on this exact topic. I simply want to swap my stock 2001 PSD 4x4 Ex leaf springs with X code up front and B code in back. The problem I've found is that all of the leaf spring part numbers in the tech folder(which are several years old at this point) are no longer in use by Ford or really anyone else. Could someone please point me in the right direction for where to source these? Also, I've read that some guys that do the swap use f350 rear tapered blocks, and some don't. Can't find a good part number for those either. Should I even bother with the rear blocks?

I live in San Antonio and we have several very large, well established Ford dealers. Their parts guys just look at me like I'm a retard when I talk to them about leaf spring codes and give them the part numbers in the tech folder. Also parts.ford.com does not recognize a single part number either.

Thanks,
Taylor

 

I'm running X codes front from SDT (b springs are fine but they really had some order issues) and rear mod springs from ATS. I'd go ATS all the way around and avoid the hassles. ...or see Mike (Nicmike) and do a full coil from suspension upgrade and see what else he might have to say. Having driven my Ex upgraded and also Mike's, I'd pick Mikes every time.

 

So you weren't able to get the actual Ford OEM springs either? If I had the coin to drop on axle swap + coil spring swap I'd do that, but I'm just looking for a better ride quality, little better towing and an inch or 2 lift. From what I've read I would get all of my wants from X&B code swap (possibly with rear f350 tapered block, still uncertain on that).

Just can't source the parts to buy.

 

I got over 2.5 inches with the ATS mod rear and the X code fronts, but figure out the final expense and your aptitude for the mechanicals. Just saying I'd have preferred the coil front at the least. You won't need the changed lift blocks if you make sure you get with ATS

 

Part numbers get superseded, but that will be in their computer...at least it should be.

I just checked this V code spring part number, 2C3Z-5310-HA and it came up at AutoNation Ford as a good number.

https://parts.autonationfordwhitebea...ing-2c3z5310ha

You need to talk to a competent Ford parts guy.

Stewart

 

Junior with ATS is going to be calling me tomorrow, hopefully I'll get this straightened out. They seem to have a good reputation around here.

 

Best service, great price. A consultative approach.

 

That's well over half the battle there....

I'm fortunate that the ones at my dealership are competent and are parts masters.

Good call here...

I got my V and B code springs off an '02 F250 that only had 26K on them when they were taken off. The V's were modded with an add a leaf, but with the rear B's I kept the overload springs and left the factory block in. The end result lifted the truck quite nicely and it rode and towed worlds better!

 

Curious about the part I bolded Razzi, which "overload" spring did you leave in place on the B codes, the big thick (like you ) bottom one or the thin top one (I'd like to say like me, but that's not true ) that sits on the 1" spacer and uses the frame mounted landing pads on the SD trucks? The age old wisdom here has always said the top ones need to come off to prevent rear AC line damage, wondering what you have there.

 

I just finished removing a lift from my rig last weekend, so I'm VERY familiar with what you're doing. There was a 8-10in lift from BDS installed on my Ex when I bought it last summer, and it was rolling on 35in tires and 16.5in wheels. Liked the wheels, but they had to go due to their size and lack of tire options. Lift had to come off to fit what I wanted in wheel/tire combo. Fender to center of the hub measured 32.5-33in before the lift was removed. I chose to keep whatever the rear springs were, but removed the 2 smallest leafs from the pack. I also ditched the 5.5in lift blocks and chose to go without any block at all on the rear. On the front end, I ditched the 10-leaf springs and installed U-code springs. From my research, they weren't rated quite as heavy as the X codes and I didn't really want much of a lift at all. My parents recently moved into my guest house permanently, so they travel with us frequently. The last thing I need is my 77yo mom breaking a hip getting in or out!

Long story short, I expected to have it lowered a good 6in after removing the larger spring packs up front, removing 2 leafs from the rear along with the blocks. As measured after the removal, it only came down 3-4in. A little disappointed because I had already ordered my new tires. If I had to do it all over again, I likely would have ordered new stock springs front and rear. I know its going to take time and miles for the suspension to settle, but as of now, I'm measuring 27.5-28in on all around, fender to center of hub. New tires get installed tomorrow, so I'll post a few before/after pics later this weekend.

 

Understatement of the year right here.

 

Ended up ordering a full x and b code swap kit from Junior. Like has been mentioned, they are great to work with. Thanks everyone for the help.

Taylor.

 

Would 315/75/17 size tires work after the spring swap? Or would they look too big? I've found some of the wheels I want NIB here locally on craigslist and he will throw in some 315/75/17's as well for another $200. Thanks.

 

new 315 rubber


While I don't fully recall the spring swap I did as it was 9 years ago, but I recall 2-3 inch height gain. I just installed 315/75/16's on stock rims and had rubbing on the springs up front when close to full turn. I have since added 1/2" spacers in the front and only sometimes get a slight rub at full lock.

 

Thanks for that insight. I'm definitely not wanting any rubbing or spacers so I will stick with my 285/75/16's.