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1982 f150 regular cab 4x4,
Sitting at a stop light and go to take off had it hesitates, stumbles then picks up and goes.
When its warm and off sometimes you have to hold the pedal to the floor to get it to start.
Fuel line comes up behind the AC, wraps around the carb to the dual fuel inlets on the summit 4010 carb. this is the same carb before the rebuild.
I noticed that the fuel filter cold is full, as the engine warms and I drive it the filter level starts dropping, when I stop and look quickly the fuel filter is almost empty.
when the engine cools the fuel filter refills. There is no fuel filter under the cab.
Thinking of replacing the lines from the Dual tank split forward and/or rerouting the fuel line across top the engine vs around the carb.
OR move the a fuel pump......
I have had several trucks do this, when moving down they road they were fine. Come to a stop light and they would start throwing a fit, eventually stalling and not running till they cooled off. They were also header equipped, custom trucks. What fixed both was to re-route the line on the outside of the frame. The books will tell you as long as you are 3 inches or so away from the exhaust you will be fine, but that doesn't work. If you have the stock pump, run from that through a hole in the frame or over the top or bottom of the driver's side frame rail, and then sneak it past the front suspension on the frame using plenty of clips. Run it down the frame, and then run it to the fuel tank. If you happen to cross the exhaust onto the outside of the frame, then you need to cross the fuel line back on the other side of the frame, using the frame as a heat shield.
I suspect much of your problem is heat soak of the carb, from the exhaust crossover passage inside the intake manifold. Note I’m running stock cast iron exhaust manifolds. I don’t think your headers help keep underhood temperatures within reason, but what’s that saying about opinions?...
I installed one of these near the carb on my 83 F150 351W and ran the return line back to the the tank. I made a tee with a piece of exhaust pipe and a 1/4" barbed fitting for the return line and installed it in the tank filler hose. This solved my vapor lock problem. I live in South Georgia and it gets hot here in the summer and this truck can idle all day and have no more problems taking off from a red light. Just wanted to share, as this is an easy fix and it works.
The issue is the ethanol laced fuels has a lower boiling point than the pure gasoline of days gone by so we are seeing this issue crop up. A noted by Sandgnat that is the best way to combat it , add a return line. This keeps cooler fuel from the fuel tank always circulating and will help prevent vapour lock there are many ways to do this, the above is one and probably the easiest.
Yes, the vent on the filter has a very small hole and it will not effect the running of the engine. It allows the vapor and a small amount of fuel to return to the tank. It works great, I put one on my 79 Lariat Ranger as well.
I installed one of these near the carb on my 83 F150 351W and ran the return line back to the the tank. I made a tee with a piece of exhaust pipe and a 1/4" barbed fitting for the return line and installed it in the tank filler hose. This solved my vapor lock problem. I live in South Georgia and it gets hot here in the summer and this truck can idle all day and have no more problems taking off from a red light. Just wanted to share, as this is an easy fix and it works.
That filter is used on 76 AMC 258 motor in a Gremlin. I cant remember if my sons YJ w/258 has that filter or not. I do know my 75 v8 Gremlin does not from the factory.
Just make sure that small return is at the top other wise it will drain out when off.
Dave ----
I been watching the issue over the last couple days.
truck sits for 3 hours fuel filter is half full, start the truck the filter fills almost full.
shut the truck off wait 2-3 mins and restart.... the filter empties itself and you never see a drop of fuel in the filter but the truck is running......
I talked to Holley about possibly replacing the Holley 4010 with fuel injection and after explaining all the engine rebuild specs a 375 hp engine needs at least 63 GPH fuel pump.
The stock fuel pump is 20 GPH, so I replaced the stock pump with an 80 GPH Holley. The fuel feed line was moved to the outside of the frame then comes straight over the the pump, them the carb feed goes straight back to the driver fender well and around by the brake booster around the cowl then into the carb. I drove it a little and the fuel filter after the pump did stay 1/2 full now where it was empty, but I'm now seeing bubbles coming into the filter almost like the gas is boiling. Even after I shut it down pop the hood its still bubbling. I did upgrade to 1 core radiator to a 4 core radiator which moved the fan shroud back about 2 inches and man is that air HOT..... I'm thinking about putting in a small metal air deflector near the fuel lines.
Anyone figured out how to lower engine bay temperatures?
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