Babe the Blue Ox is SICK!
#91
Manual shifting your auto tranny, start in 1 go all the way to 2500 rpm then shift to 2 2500 rpm shift to drive with OD on reach 50 mph then start to down shift, do this a couple of times change the oil and filter and keep on trucking Glenn, it worked for me when I went to to Snider and Abeline TX towing the 5th wheel, I have zero blow by as well so working the truck hard helped the rings seal like they should. I do this to works trucks when they get a reman in them.
While braking in your engine your trying to avoid washing down the cylinder walls with fuel, thats why IMO its best to do the procedure as I posted, you will rise the rpms while down shifting gears without dumping fuel in the cylinder and avoids keeping a steady RPM which can cause the rings to never seal properly.
not sure if the same aplies to diesel engines but it worked when I built my 7.3
not sure if the same aplies to diesel engines but it worked when I built my 7.3
#92
I am glad you found a shop who will take good care of the Ox. My only dislike is that you are so far away from any of us who can lend a hand in some way. I know my truck is not set up to pull your trailer, but heck you could have borrowed it to kick around in while the Ox is under the knife. Hope you are the road again soon. Don’t forget to take pics of the work! We all love pics!
#93
So what your saying Adam is taking it to 2500 rpm in each gear until 50 mph is reached to third year. Let off the gas and as each gear loses rpm downshift to get it back to 2500 rpm then repeat, repeat, repeat. When getting it up to 2500 rpm do you get on it or drive it normal? Thanks Adam, not washing down the cyl walls makes a lot of sense. When you say do this a couple of times, how many miles total?
#94
There's an article in the Steve Baz collection about diesel break-in:
https://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/94...vebaz/tips.htm
They used to say an engine was half-broke-in at 50 miles and broke-in at 500 miles. Whoever the hell "they" is.
https://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/94...vebaz/tips.htm
They used to say an engine was half-broke-in at 50 miles and broke-in at 500 miles. Whoever the hell "they" is.
#95
I am glad you found a shop who will take good care of the Ox. My only dislike is that you are so far away from any of us who can lend a hand in some way. I know my truck is not set up to pull your trailer, but heck you could have borrowed it to kick around in while the Ox is under the knife. Hope you are the road again soon. Don’t forget to take pics of the work! We all love pics!
There's an article in the Steve Baz collection about diesel break-in:
https://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/94...vebaz/tips.htm
They used to say an engine was half-broke-in at 50 miles and broke-in at 500 miles. Whoever the hell "they" is.
https://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/94...vebaz/tips.htm
They used to say an engine was half-broke-in at 50 miles and broke-in at 500 miles. Whoever the hell "they" is.
#96
#99
#101
#102
I, personally, would change the oil the first time around 100 miles, then short change it one more time around 500 miles for good measure. I am OCD about having clean oil though. Break in for the rings happens faster than many people think it does. IMO it happens much sooner than 500 miles. Your goal during break in time though is dont let it sit idling and dont let it cruise at any particular RPM. Let it warm up a little bit, of course, but during that time raise the idle up and keep raising and dropping RPM from 1000-1500 RPM or so and dont let it warm up longer than maybe 10 minutes. Long enough to check for leaks and such.. This way you're at least loading the engine a tiny bit while it warms up.
The piston rings are forced against the cylinder walls when pressure in the cylinder rises. Cylinder pressure gets higher and higher while you're accelerating with more load on the engine. So you do want to be accelerating as often as possible and be under some boost. I like to let the engine run at a fast, varying idle for about 5 minutes while i check for leaks and then go put a load on it. Keep it accelerating and dont let RPMs get over around 2500. The more load you can put on it at lower RPMs the better, so if you can haul your trailer without running it at redline that will actually be better. The harder you run the engine, the harder you force the rings into the cylinder walls.
In a case like yours, I would try to keep running the engine around 15-20psi boost at less than 2500 RPM maybe 20 miles or so and then start increasing load. I'd do this for around 100-150 miles, change the oil and roll on.
I would be mindful that you have new head gaskets that wont be sealed as well as your OEM gaskets too. I like to retorque headstuds after a heat cycle whenever possible or at minimum let it sit for 24 hours after torquing them, then retorque them before finishing assembly. I realize you dont have control over that process, but may be worth talking to the shop about.
The piston rings are forced against the cylinder walls when pressure in the cylinder rises. Cylinder pressure gets higher and higher while you're accelerating with more load on the engine. So you do want to be accelerating as often as possible and be under some boost. I like to let the engine run at a fast, varying idle for about 5 minutes while i check for leaks and then go put a load on it. Keep it accelerating and dont let RPMs get over around 2500. The more load you can put on it at lower RPMs the better, so if you can haul your trailer without running it at redline that will actually be better. The harder you run the engine, the harder you force the rings into the cylinder walls.
In a case like yours, I would try to keep running the engine around 15-20psi boost at less than 2500 RPM maybe 20 miles or so and then start increasing load. I'd do this for around 100-150 miles, change the oil and roll on.
I would be mindful that you have new head gaskets that wont be sealed as well as your OEM gaskets too. I like to retorque headstuds after a heat cycle whenever possible or at minimum let it sit for 24 hours after torquing them, then retorque them before finishing assembly. I realize you dont have control over that process, but may be worth talking to the shop about.
#104
For you and the wife:
https://omaha.craigslist.org/bik/d/q...643256958.html
Or if you want to get there faster...
https://omaha.craigslist.org/mcy/d/h...644320112.html
Or a little project to keep you busy....
https://omaha.craigslist.org/mcy/d/1...643598228.html
https://omaha.craigslist.org/bik/d/q...643256958.html
Or if you want to get there faster...
https://omaha.craigslist.org/mcy/d/h...644320112.html
Or a little project to keep you busy....
https://omaha.craigslist.org/mcy/d/1...643598228.html
#105
What would I do without you Jarrett? lol To late, the OX gets the knife tomorrow, I can walk 1 1/2 mile. We limped it to the grocery store and stocked up. Funny though, our neighbor at the campsite told me he takes his 6.7 to the place I'm going and said he is excellent. Makes me feel good knowing he has a good rep.