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Great find. That little bypass hose has always puzzled/irritated me. I never understood why the cooling system was designed that way. Seems such an important passage could have been cast into the block or water pump, but what do I know? Nobody asked me...
Just curious, did the stock gauge behave itself once you got the coolant flow sorted out? In other words, it may have been reading correctly all this time and the coolant temperature really was spiking high shortly after start-up, just like the factory gauge showed.
Is it the 390 that has that 4" bypass hose but only give you 1" between pump & intake nipple?
Dave ----
Great find. That little bypass hose has always puzzled/irritated me. I never understood why the cooling system was designed that way. Seems such an important passage could have been cast into the block or water pump, but what do I know? Nobody asked me...
Just curious, did the stock gauge behave itself once you got the coolant flow sorted out? In other words, it may have been reading correctly all this time and the coolant temperature really was spiking high shortly after start-up, just like the factory gauge showed.
The factory gauge was broken after all. Even with the problem fixed the gauge read hot. I’d still like to think I’ve fixed the problem. I’ve done a test drive but the real test will be when I drive it to the alignment shop 30 miles away. Talked to the P.O. and he had done the bypass hose/tstat work, only farm driven 200 miles since he did the work until I got it and then I drove it another 250. So I’m hoping engines all good.
Good to hear it started easier with just a little pedal, not pumping it.
People that drive EFI always want to pump LOL.
Hope that stat change fixes that temp gauge issue too.
Dave - - - -
Dave, so I am having the starting issues still. I had the timing advanced and carbs adjusted at a mechanic which made the vehicle drive better as a whole but I am still battling the starting issues. After I got back with the truck and let it sit over night, the same issue arose. I called the mechanic and he suggested I pump the pedal 3 times and then press it to the floor and fire it up, this did nothing to remedy the issue. The only way that I can get the truck to start on one shot is by depressing the pedal repeatedly while I crank it over. This goes back to the EFI comment you made, but its the only thing that works, granted the truck falls flat on its face after I pull it into reverse and start reversing unless I give it gas and zip back and then throw it into drive and blow forwards. It seams to me that there is a fuel delivery issue at the carb (Fuel pressure was tested at 10psi, a little high me thinks). It's like when I press the gas pedal repeatedly it is shooting enough small streams of gas into the carb to fire up but depressing and holding the pedal is not providing enough or any at all (is depressing the pedal supposed to supply a consistent stream of gas until ignition?) Somewhere from the fuel line going into the carb to engine ignition is not quite there. Now I don't mind doing the pedal pump trick as it works, I would just like to figure out where the culprit lies.
Dave, so I am having the starting issues still. I had the timing advanced and carbs adjusted at a mechanic which made the vehicle drive better as a whole but I am still battling the starting issues. After I got back with the truck and let it sit over night, the same issue arose. I called the mechanic and he suggested I pump the pedal 3 times and then press it to the floor and fire it up, this did nothing to remedy the issue. The only way that I can get the truck to start on one shot is by depressing the pedal repeatedly while I crank it over. This goes back to the EFI comment you made, but its the only thing that works, granted the truck falls flat on its face after I pull it into reverse and start reversing unless I give it gas and zip back and then throw it into drive and blow forwards. It seams to me that there is a fuel delivery issue at the carb (Fuel pressure was tested at 10psi, a little high me thinks). It's like when I press the gas pedal repeatedly it is shooting enough small streams of gas into the carb to fire up but depressing and holding the pedal is not providing enough or any at all (is depressing the pedal supposed to supply a consistent stream of gas until ignition?) Somewhere from the fuel line going into the carb to engine ignition is not quite there. Now I don't mind doing the pedal pump trick as it works, I would just like to figure out where the culprit lies.
Pumping the pedal will give it one shot of fuel. A couple pumps should be enough for it to light off. Is the choke adjust properly ?
Pumping the pedal will give it one shot of fuel. A couple pumps should be enough for it to light off. Is the choke adjust properly ?
No, good point. A while back when I was researching carb rebuilding I came across a great rebuild pdf and remembered that when the mechanic said "there's really no way to adjust the choke on these carbs". I've got the stock carb so I'll rebuild it in the mean time. Thank you.
No, good point. A while back when I was researching carb rebuilding I came across a great rebuild pdf and remembered that when the mechanic said "there's really no way to adjust the choke on these carbs". I've got the stock carb so I'll rebuild it in the mean time. Thank you.
WHAT ????? The choke is fully adjustable apparently this tech does not have much of a clue.
To set the choke ignore the marks on the choke housing and cap and the procedure to set them this only works on brand new Motorcraft choke caps and even then it should be taken with a grain of salt...
The proven and easiest method is to adjust the choke cap so the choke flap is about half closed around room temp 72F, this will insure reliable operation and easy starting.
WHAT ????? The choke is fully adjustable apparently this tech does not have much of a clue.
To set the choke ignore the marks on the choke housing and cap and the procedure to set them this only works on brand new Motorcraft choke caps and even then it should be taken with a grain of salt...
The proven and easiest method is to adjust the choke cap so the choke flap is about half closed around room temp 72F, this will insure reliable operation and easy starting.
So I had some success with starting after adjusting the choke and went out today and gunned the truck from stop, it hesitated, heard a strange noise and when I got to the pizza shop she fell flat on her face. I used some starter fluid to get her running again and noticed that the two ports in the picture were filling up with fluid and spilling over. When I give it gas, the fluid drains, when its idling its spilling over and making the truck die. Is this gasket failure or am I getting too much fuel delivery? Apparently I'm getting a reading of 10psi. I know I need to get a rebuild kit and just tear this thing down and get it back to spec and potentially put an inline fuel regulator but I've got to know what's happening to cause this.
So I had some success with starting after adjusting the choke and went out today and gunned the truck from stop, it hesitated, heard a strange noise and when I got to the pizza shop she fell flat on her face. I used some starter fluid to get her running again and noticed that the two ports in the picture were filling up with fluid and spilling over. When I give it gas, the fluid drains, when its idling its spilling over and making the truck die. Is this gasket failure or am I getting too much fuel delivery? Apparently I'm getting a reading of 10psi. I know I need to get a rebuild kit and just tear this thing down and get it back to spec and potentially put an inline fuel regulator but I've got to know what's happening to cause this.
Those are the bowl vents. If they are filling up with gasoline it is an indication that either the inlet needle is leaking or a piece of debris is preventing it from sealing fully or the float is way way out of adjustment, or fuel pressure is to high, you should be about 6 PSI inlet pressure.
Either way it is going to mean opening up the carb to fix it or dialing back fuel pressure.
Those are the bowl vents. If they are filling up with gasoline it is an indication that either the inlet needle is leaking or a piece of debris is preventing it from sealing fully or the float is way way out of adjustment, or fuel pressure is to high, you should be about 6 PSI inlet pressure.
Either way it is going to mean opening up the carb to fix it or dialing back fuel pressure.
I've been looking at some fuel pressure regulators and about to order a rebuild kit, do you have any suggestions on a good regulator?
I've been looking at some fuel pressure regulators and about to order a rebuild kit, do you have any suggestions on a good regulator?
You really shouldn't need a regulator for a stock ford 302. I think the carb needle is sticking or float is out of whack. Carb rebuild first before you spend 50 bucks on a reg....
Also, my 302 is kind of a pain to start...I think the problem has to do with the anti-dieseling feature of these carbs where the throttle plates are normally pulled shut until the engine starts. Do you have a throttle solenoid?
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