Frame Coatings
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 475
I'm all in for POR15 if you don't mind doing the work. I've had powder coat fail from chips, it'll rust under, then flake. I've had paint fail from chips. Same thing rust under then flake. I've had a POR15 painted axle under my daily driver for close to 5 years now. I ground it mostly down, washed it with Super Purple degreaser, rinsed well, etched it with Prep and Etch from Home Depot according to the bottles instructions for converting rust, rinsed well, then 2 coats of POR. There's a gash on the housing from me being careless with a jack when I installed it. It rusted there and that's it, no rust spreading under the POR15. I check it regularly, kinda an experiment now, see how long before it fails. Also, there no road rash whatsoever on the leading side of the axle. I thought the finish was dulled down from road debris after a couple years, then I wiped it with a rag and the grunge came off, still shiny. And just like paint, if/ when it fails, it's fairly easy to touch up. Only real drawback of POR like products is it's hard to guarantee full coverage inside things line like frames. I'll end up, slowly, covering my whole truck with it as i go.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,504
Likes: 339
From: Wildwood Pa
These are trailers & machines we buy new from the manufacturer, already coated, we don't send them out to be done. A variety of manufacturers, not just one company. Cost new of this equipment runs from $1000 up to $175,000. Result is the same if the equipment is powder coated, rust everywhere in a couple of years, coming off in huge sheets in a year or two more. Painted equipment holds up much better. Most of this equipment is outside in the weather year round. Some gets a steady diet of salt in the winter.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,504
Likes: 339
From: Wildwood Pa
I use R-M acrylic enamel with a hardener for the topcoat.
As someone else mentioned, Rustoleum rusty metal primer & oil base enamel for a topcoat works well too. Brush it on, or reduce it & spray it.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 186
Likes: 5
From: Blenheim Ontario Canada
Powder coating is a popular choice and does provide superior protection, BUT, as grinngetter says it will fail prematurely if the prep work isn't done properly. Ideally the frame is blasted, cleaned, a coating of phosphate, then coated. One caveat with powder, if applied to thick it will prevent you from grounding to the frame unless you grind it off. Take a look at Eastwood's Chassis Black. It can sprayed or brushed on, is epoxy based, and the sheen is very close to what was applied in the factory.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
I would go with por-15. They have a prep kit. Where you sorry in this like acid etch stuff that takes off any light rust. And you spray it off with water, wore wheel the frame then paint on the por-15. It holds up.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,028
Likes: 890
From: East Central Ia
Ford powder coated suspension parts in the late 80's mid 90's and it chips, then lets water/salt seep under the rest of the coating. Make a huge mess, you can pull it off in sheets. If it's going to get chipped I would paint it.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
Likes: 19
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
POR-15 all the way. Powder coating is for show trucks that never run.
From my build thread: Post #150 1979 Ford F-250 4x4 Build Thread
BEFORE:
Attachment 285044
DURING (after cleaning and applying POR-15's Metal Etch):
Attachment 285045
And now, for some TV magic. Boom. One heavy coat of POR-15. One heavy coat of Chassis Coat / TopCoat by POR-15. This image makes me happy
Attachment 285046
Attachment 285047
Spent the extra time with a tiny brush and my tiny hands... hours and hours of prep and painting paid off... And it'll hopefully it'll last forever.
Either way, every time someone looks under my truck they comment how clean it is.
From my build thread: Post #150 1979 Ford F-250 4x4 Build Thread
BEFORE:
Attachment 285044
DURING (after cleaning and applying POR-15's Metal Etch):
Attachment 285045
And now, for some TV magic. Boom. One heavy coat of POR-15. One heavy coat of Chassis Coat / TopCoat by POR-15. This image makes me happy
Attachment 285046
Attachment 285047
Spent the extra time with a tiny brush and my tiny hands... hours and hours of prep and painting paid off... And it'll hopefully it'll last forever.
Either way, every time someone looks under my truck they comment how clean it is.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,365
Likes: 12
From: NW Indiana
As an alternative to POR products , I've used Chassis Saver on another truck. Did a very light sand blast to remove some rust but left a coating for the paint to stick to. Two years later it has dulled but no rust. Truck lives outside and I would use it again. I like to change stuff.....a lot.
Make sure you use the Chassis Saver reducer if you spray. Must have.
Make sure you use the Chassis Saver reducer if you spray. Must have.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 475
POR-15 all the way. Powder coating is for show trucks that never run.
From my build thread: Post #150 1979 Ford F-250 4x4 Build Thread
BEFORE:
DURING (after cleaning and applying POR-15's Metal Etch):
And now, for some TV magic. Boom. One heavy coat of POR-15. One heavy coat of Chassis Coat / TopCoat by POR-15. This image makes me happy
Spent the extra time with a tiny brush and my tiny hands... hours and hours of prep and painting paid off... And it'll hopefully it'll last forever.
Either way, every time someone looks under my truck they comment how clean it is.
From my build thread: Post #150 1979 Ford F-250 4x4 Build Thread
BEFORE:
DURING (after cleaning and applying POR-15's Metal Etch):
And now, for some TV magic. Boom. One heavy coat of POR-15. One heavy coat of Chassis Coat / TopCoat by POR-15. This image makes me happy
Spent the extra time with a tiny brush and my tiny hands... hours and hours of prep and painting paid off... And it'll hopefully it'll last forever.
Either way, every time someone looks under my truck they comment how clean it is.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 244
Likes: 3
Sounds like old fashion labor and attention to detail “Spent the extra time with a tiny brush and my tiny hands... hours and hours of prep and painting”
My regret about Aaron-71’s attention to detail is that it’s not focused on an FE. I want a budget serpentine belt system for my truck.
My regret about Aaron-71’s attention to detail is that it’s not focused on an FE. I want a budget serpentine belt system for my truck.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
I hand my frame blasted then brush on two coats of rush bullit silver . The stuff dries hard and tuff as a rock. It appears to be the same stuff I used to repaint the in the navy on the ship. It was a pain in the *** to grind off but there was zero rust under it. It two coats of the silver and one of the black top coat.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,236
Likes: 285
From: Clinton, MS
77SuperCabSuperDuty,
I see your message and tried to respond, but it keeps giving me an error. Here is the answer to your questions:
I see your message and tried to respond, but it keeps giving me an error. Here is the answer to your questions:
We did both trucks slightly different. On the first truck, we used a sand blasting attachment for out pressure washer to clean the frame. On the real rough parts, we focused the sand/water to get it as clean as possible. Then, we wiped it down with some cleanup lacquer thinner before brushing it on. It dried to a hard shiny surface. It’s the Bullnose project in my signature.
On the second truck, it had been coated with rubberized undercoating at some point, so we scraped about 15 pounds of this off with some flat blade scrapers. What wouldn’t come off easily, we mixed up a concoction to soften and loosen it before blasting it off with the pressure washer. Then, we coated it with 2 coats of POR. Came out shiny and hard as can be. DO NOT GET IT ON YOU, it will not wash off.
Here is a little tip we learned with working with POR15: When it dries, it will seal the lid on the can and will begin to harden. Here is what I did that will allow me to use all of the gallon. Buy it in a gallon can, its cheaper that way. Before you open it, go to Home Depot and buy you 3 brand new quart paint cans with lids, and a pint can with a lid. Open the POR15 and using a funnel, fill the 3 quarts and 1 pint can with POR, making sure NOT to get any in the lid gap, then close them up good. You will get a long way with what is left in the can, but also allows you to preserve the rest of the gallon. As you need more POR, you have fresh cans to open to use.
I hope this helps, ask any questions and I will respond.
Thanks,
-Michael
On the second truck, it had been coated with rubberized undercoating at some point, so we scraped about 15 pounds of this off with some flat blade scrapers. What wouldn’t come off easily, we mixed up a concoction to soften and loosen it before blasting it off with the pressure washer. Then, we coated it with 2 coats of POR. Came out shiny and hard as can be. DO NOT GET IT ON YOU, it will not wash off.
Here is a little tip we learned with working with POR15: When it dries, it will seal the lid on the can and will begin to harden. Here is what I did that will allow me to use all of the gallon. Buy it in a gallon can, its cheaper that way. Before you open it, go to Home Depot and buy you 3 brand new quart paint cans with lids, and a pint can with a lid. Open the POR15 and using a funnel, fill the 3 quarts and 1 pint can with POR, making sure NOT to get any in the lid gap, then close them up good. You will get a long way with what is left in the can, but also allows you to preserve the rest of the gallon. As you need more POR, you have fresh cans to open to use.
I hope this helps, ask any questions and I will respond.
Thanks,
-Michael
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 2,240
Likes: 23
Originally Posted by monkey-1
77SuperCabSuperDuty,
I see your message and tried to respond, but it keeps giving me an error. Here is the answer to your questions:
I see your message and tried to respond, but it keeps giving me an error. Here is the answer to your questions:
We did both trucks slightly different. On the first truck, we used a sand blasting attachment for out pressure washer to clean the frame. On the real rough parts, we focused the sand/water to get it as clean as possible. Then, we wiped it down with some cleanup lacquer thinner before brushing it on. It dried to a hard shiny surface. It’s the Bullnose project in my signature.
On the second truck, it had been coated with rubberized undercoating at some point, so we scraped about 15 pounds of this off with some flat blade scrapers. What wouldn’t come off easily, we mixed up a concoction to soften and loosen it before blasting it off with the pressure washer. Then, we coated it with 2 coats of POR. Came out shiny and hard as can be. DO NOT GET IT ON YOU, it will not wash off.
Here is a little tip we learned with working with POR15: When it dries, it will seal the lid on the can and will begin to harden. Here is what I did that will allow me to use all of the gallon. Buy it in a gallon can, its cheaper that way. Before you open it, go to Home Depot and buy you 3 brand new quart paint cans with lids, and a pint can with a lid. Open the POR15 and using a funnel, fill the 3 quarts and 1 pint can with POR, making sure NOT to get any in the lid gap, then close them up good. You will get a long way with what is left in the can, but also allows you to preserve the rest of the gallon. As you need more POR, you have fresh cans to open to use.
I hope this helps, ask any questions and I will respond.
Thanks,
-Michael
On the second truck, it had been coated with rubberized undercoating at some point, so we scraped about 15 pounds of this off with some flat blade scrapers. What wouldn’t come off easily, we mixed up a concoction to soften and loosen it before blasting it off with the pressure washer. Then, we coated it with 2 coats of POR. Came out shiny and hard as can be. DO NOT GET IT ON YOU, it will not wash off.
Here is a little tip we learned with working with POR15: When it dries, it will seal the lid on the can and will begin to harden. Here is what I did that will allow me to use all of the gallon. Buy it in a gallon can, its cheaper that way. Before you open it, go to Home Depot and buy you 3 brand new quart paint cans with lids, and a pint can with a lid. Open the POR15 and using a funnel, fill the 3 quarts and 1 pint can with POR, making sure NOT to get any in the lid gap, then close them up good. You will get a long way with what is left in the can, but also allows you to preserve the rest of the gallon. As you need more POR, you have fresh cans to open to use.
I hope this helps, ask any questions and I will respond.
Thanks,
-Michael
Side note.... couldnt you put Saran Wrap over the gallon and then put the lid on? The POR will stick to the wrap but the wrap won't stick to the lid.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,742
Likes: 5
From: Near St. Joseph,MO
I had mine blasted, then I coated the entire thing with a couple coats of epoxy primer, then a couple coats of tractor enamel from TSC. No issues as of yet, been on the road a year now