79 f150 4x4.
After going around a right corner hard, let's say, then going straight down the road normal speed, the truck tries to dart to the left. It feels like the wheels just try to turn themselves. I have to correct it.
If I stop and turn lock to lock, things seems ok again... it's kinda freaky.
But none of this started until after I got all my front suspension done. urethanes, etc. , I re-greased zerks, I upgraded to a saginaw pump from the plastic loud thing, Rotated tires (fronts where worn due to not rotating, now-fronts are normal wear). Now-front tires balanced. All this was at once. Then it started.
So looking closer there was some play in the pitman arm. So, I swapped out my pitman arm with a new one.
Things seemed ok for a week. Then... hard right turn (pushing that single brl carter baby!), bam, it's back. Hell at one point today, I had to hold right for a while to keep her straight...
ahhh.
What should I look at? :/

 

Axle U joints ?

 

How old are the tires? Not just mileage, but actual age?
I had the opposite problem once after rotating the toasted front tires to the back. It would go straight, but as soon as I started to turn, it would literally dive into the corner to the point that it wanted to put me in the ditch and I had to hold opposite pressure just to keep it from turning too sharp.
Old tires. New tires fixed it completely.

Not the same as yours of course, but thought I'd mention tires just in case yours are beyond their life expectancy.

Paul

 

It doesn't feel like it's jamming up, does it? I mean, the wheel does turn, and it feels like the tires are turning with it when you're trying to compensate for the pull?
Just wondering if any of the adjusting sleeve clamps might be interfering with something like a lower trackbar bolt or lower front shock mount.

Good luck.

Paul

 

 

Had this happen a couple of times on a couple trucks of mine. It was the axle joints in my case.

 

 

Thanks guys.
The tires are about 2yrs old BFGs. There was uneven wear before rotation on the fronts, the 'then' rears were even wear.
About 3yrs ago, I had Idaho Drivetrine do all my driveshaft balance, u-joints, yokes, etc. But maybe.. idk.
Yeah, the tires do turn when I turn, but there is kinda a 'hard spot' as if, my pump isn't working good, but I know it is.. idk. Again, this is only when this other stuff is going on, this hard spot isn't there when she is acting normal and not trying to drive me into oncoming traffic.
Maybe not or maybe related, idk, at the same time this started, SOMETIMES, not all the time, I get vibration @ 60+mph.

 

The axle shaft u-joints in a 4wd have to turn with the wheels, so if they're old and semi-frozen up, this could definitely cause trouble.
Same for the ball-joints if they have spots that they're binding in. If they've never been greased for instance, all sorts of nasty things can be going on inside there.

A good test (I believe) would be to disconnect the tie-rod from the knuckles and manually "steer" the knuckles to see if you can feel any binding or notchiness going on with either, or both of the knuckles.
And as you turn the knuckles, if you can easily spin the rotors then your axle shaft u-joints are probably still free. But if you can't turn the rotor (or tire if you left them on) at some point, then that would point to a binding u-joint.

Paul

 

Jack up your front end, lock the hubs, then spin your tire by hand with the steering pointing straight. Then, turn your wheel one way or the other then do the same thing. If its an axle u-joint, there will be noticeable bind when you try to turn it. This is how I diagnosed mine. It also explained the loud pop noise when I turned...there was so much pressure on the steering that it was trying to rip the trac bar bracket off the frame.

 

Since you just did all the bushings, I'm thinking the lower track bar stud didn't get tightened enough, or loosened up after a bit of driving. It happened to me. Try this....Engine running, truck not moving, steering wheel centered. Turn steering wheel from left to right. Watch the center of the hood. If the truck shifts to the left when you turn to the right, and vs/vs, its probably the track bar. And its very helpful to have a helper observing the suspension and steering components

 

Thanks guys.
So far I just jacked up the front and re-greased all the zerks.
But while doing that I found this zerk didn't want to take any grease. Like it was clogged, pressing hard on the gun and just would leak out the top of the gun.
Removed zerk and cleaned it, the little check-ball does move.
Put it back on, same thing.
Grabbing the front bars and trying to move that ball-joint was impossible by hand, grabbed a prybar and finally got it to move.. but it was a 'chunky move'.
So, lifted up the bushing cover and pumped grease into that. Then moved the ball-joint again and it started to move smooth, by hand.
I think this is the issue spot. Maybe fixed it.. not sure yet until I drive it around for a week.
Think that ball-joint if binding, could cause her to do what I described? I don't understand the physics of that, but someone smarter probably would.

 

Yeah, sometimes the grease just dries out and clogs up the little passages. The fact that you got the Zerk fitting itself clear though (which is often where the clog is) means that you're clogged up elsewhere.
I have a tool in fact, from IPA (Innovative Products of America) that is designed to clear out the passages so you can grease the component again.

I'm surprised that I didn't mention my favorite steering test already. Usually it's the first thing I type when talking about odd steering issues.
Since it's really hard to pry those linkages by hand, or even with a prybar well enough to see all movement accurately, let the steering box do all the hard work.

With the tires on the ground and the full weight of the truck on them, have a helper rack the steering wheel back and forth about a half-turn in each direction. Have them do this continuously while you lay under the front and watch, listen and feel all the linkages and anything else that moves or doesn't move.
While the torque of the steering system is working against the weight of the truck, anything and everything loose will usually show itself. Tie-rod ends, ball-joints, wheel bearings, cracks in the frame, tracbkars (4wd trucks) and anything else that's connected between the frame and wheels. Including the wheels themselves. I've even found cracked wheels and loose rear u-bolts just by performing this test.

Always worth a try just to see what you can see.

Paul

 

Thanks for the help guys.
So.. started getting a sound what sounded like marbles on the front right when going slow and turning - hear it bounce off the buildings/cars.
I guess that led me to research that more. Yep, turns out it was a ujoint on the dana44. It was all rusted inside and the needle bearings were all jacked up.
So spent the weekend replacing both front ujoints, re-packing bearings (they were timkens and looked nice), replaced the seals, drained the dana44, new gear oil and gasket, new breather with a filter on the end.
I've never done this type of work before, but watching lots of youtube helped. Pre-loading bearings... dang. Pretty kewl.
After all of this, she drives straight, no bad vibes, no sounds, etc. done. bam.
Guess I thought it was something that took place recently becuase it just started after I did all the front stuff.. bleh.

 

Good deal. Well maintained old style bearings like this can literally last the life of the vehicle. Doesn't take a lot of lack-of-maintenance to change that of course, but a little goes a long way.
Ultimately it's "feel" rather than "visual" that tells the tale. If when they're clean and dry you can spin them in their races and they feel velvety smooth, they're good. A brand new bearing and race (cup and cone in bearing speak) are a thing of beauty to behold. Once you've felt a new set, you'll know exactly how a used set should feel and when they've gone beyond re-using.

Great feeling, and nice to know exactly how it all works in case you ever have to dig into it again. Like for the next round of bearing packing and adjusting!
Sounds like you now have the correct tool (no self respecting 66 to 79 F-series or Bronco owner should be without a hub socket!) for doing all this stuff.
Just in case you watched the wrong videos though (lots of misinformation and slight-misinformation out there) are you speaking of final preload, or just that first 50lb turn of the inner adjusting nut? Reason I ask is because these bearings don't actually get "preload" except in that first step. In the end you should end up with some free-play instead. To the tune of .002" to .010" or thereabouts (depending on the book you read, it's anywhere from .001" to .012" but I go with that first one because that's what I read originally.

Some of the more popular videos don't show the proper procedure, which by the book is:
1. Inner nut to 50lbs while turning the wheel/rotor. This sets the bearings, races and squeezes out excess grease to get a more accurate setting and reading.
2. Inner nut back of a full quarter turn. This results in a massive amount of excess play, but not to worry because it will go away with the next few steps.
3. Lock ring set on the pin. If won't line up, flip the ring over as the holes are offset. Whichever way is closer, reach in with a finger or tool to turn the nut to line up with the hole.
4. Outer locking nut to 100-120lbs (or so....)***
*** different books quote anywhere from 70lbs to 180lbs for the outer nut, which sometimes varies by book, or may vary by vehicle model and/or year. But most fall into the 80-120 range for 150's and Broncos. I think '78 and '79 fall into the higher range of those specifications.
I don't know anyone that's ever had one come loose when above 70lbs final torque, but that might change with extended intervals between adjustments.

When verifying free-play with a dial indicator, that procedure will usually net around .006" play. Practically perfect!
Sorry if you already knew that and got the correct info from YouTube. But like I said, seen many that were either incorrect, or just almost correct while leaving a step or two out of the equation. So figured this was as good a time to mention it as any.

Nice job! Congrats on getting it working properly.

Our rigs throw "coincidental problems" at us all the time. That u-joint was trying to die for many years most likely. The original joints in my '71 were toast by '77 and about 75k miles. The ones in my '79 are original to this day, but I haven't driven it much and I bet they're frozen up by now too.
Luckily in this climate things tend to last, but it's still 40 year old grease in there. If any is left!
So I know what I'll be doing someday soon...

Glad you got it dialed. Hope you can enjoy it for awhile before it decides to throw some other fun stuff at you.

Paul