Alright guys so I've got a 02 7.3 some guys have been following my constant battle. Took it and got it diagnosed yesterday shop says it has a decent amount of blow by ( but it passes the oil cap test ) anyways also something on the turbo is leaking some oil on top of the block ( forgot what they said it was called exactly) anyways so tomorrow I plan on building the harbor freight compression tester and also test the glow plugs harness and then the glow plugs for resistance. Today I came out to start it and got a solid click. Hydro locked... So previously it was smoking white smoke all the time during hard start cranking ( which I still haven't figured out why it's so hard to start even warm mostly it's after sitting that it's hard to start like the fuel is bleed out the system ?) Anyways so drove it yesterday to shop to get tested got back home parked it woke up it was hydro locked. I plan to remove glow plugs and check which cylinders are locked and hopeing it's fuel coming out and I will replace injectors in the truck new set of stock flow Full Force Diesel injectors new UVCH and new exterior harness plugs and also fuel filter. Anyways any tips on things to look for as far as hard start is going? Could low compression be my issue? When the truck starts it runs drives idles shifts perfect and PLENTY of power. It's definitely got to be a dusted engine though because the OEM air box is rough looking. Any thoughts or help would be great! I just would hate to dig into a engine put all the injectors in and the low compression be a issue I know people state 340+ is a ok engine anything less is unhealthy. Oh and by hard starts hot or cold I mean HARD starts! Good 20 minutes of intermediate cycling and cranking. Once started and you drive it a good bit you can shut it off and it still takes a good 7 seconds of turning the key over to get it to start. I've never had a 7.3 do that before all my 7.3 and 6.0 start up quick and strong. However this truck supposibly had new injectors recently put in and glow plugs but sounds to me like I'm having some injectors fail so who knows what was put in it! This is my only means of transportation to work and back and I need to figure something out quick any help would be great!

 

Hard to start when warm is often times a sign of a bad IPR. But again, this is throwing darts blindfolded in the dark in the Forrest.

EDIT: they we're probably referring to turbo pedestal o rings. There are o rings that seal the pedestal between the engine and pedestal. I'd those are bad, it leaks, sometimes a lot.

Are you sure it's hydro locked? Also, if you maybe washed your cylinders, I wonder if it's done serious permanent damage to the rings.

How hot is your starter during that 20 minutes of intermediate cranking? That seems excessive. I know the starter on these trucks are super buff but I feel like attempting to turn your truck over for 20 minutes is a bad idea.

 

Definitely not 20 minutes of excessive turning just about 8 key turns at 3 key cycles per turn over and only a key turn of maybe 8 seconds with a good cool down break between each basically like re priming the system. I'm getting a single one click, not a consecutive dead battery click ( both fully charged anyways) and not a slow turn or anything one solid click from the top side of the engine ( hard to pinpoint while in cab ) and that's it as soon as you turn the key. As much white smoke as it's been dumping from a what has to be faulty injector it's got to be hydro locked by fuel it white smokes when your trying to start it then while it's cold and idling then while it's warm and idling and even while driving just excessive fuel smoke out the pipe. No oil spurts or blue smoke or anything just unburnt fuel.

 

How could it have done serious permanent damage is my question? It was running driving perfect besides hard start and white smoke and then I just parked it over night came back and boom what seems to be hydro locked due to fuel is now my what I believe as my culprit. Hard to believe in that short process some serious damage was done but that's why I'm here I'm not sure what's up!

 

How can I test the IPR?

 

With the hydrolock, it's time to pop the valve covers, pull the glow plugs, and slowly turn the engine to find what's locking it up. It could be a bad cup, loose injector, or a number of other things that are relatively easy to address. All other woes would be on hold until this mystery is solved.

 

Tugly - I'm doing that today as soon as I get off! The trucks actually at my shop at work haha convenient ! So I will keep everyone posted but any other ideas of things I can test or what else I should do while the covers are off let me know! I'm gonna build the harbor freight compression test kit iv seen guys on here talk about.

 

Given your current symptoms, opening up the valve covers and pulling the glow plugs sounds like a good plan.

Before you pull anything, break out the ohm meter. Also, check all fluid levels before cracking anything open.

At the valve cover connectors, the pins connect to the injectors and glow plugs. For each pin, what ohm reading do you get to ground?

What if your starter did go bad? One more thing before opening the engine since you will spin the engine by hand anyway when you do open it... Try turning the engine with a wrench. Maybe the engine is not hydrolocked, it could be your starter.

If it is locked, then pull the valve covers and glow plugs, and turn the engine over with a wrench to find out which cylinder spits fluid. Is the fluid oil, diesel, or coolant?

For replacement glow plugs (if they ohm out bad), use Motorcraft (Ford OEM) parts. Have read some other brands may mushroom over time and become a bear to remove later.

And boost leaks also need to be taken care of, so... Before pulling valve covers, find out where those leaks are before disassembly, then check again after putting it back together.

And get an OBD dongle and software so when you do go to start it again, the experts here can look at some data. Much better than you shooting the buckszooka at the engine. And put a trickle charge on your batteries. I'm sure all the cranking has drawn them down some.

 

I'm wondering if you didn't burn up your starter motor with all that cranking. If you have the tools try turning the motor over with the bolt on the front of the crankshaft. If you can it's not hydro-locked.

 

Currently on a job site in Kentucky! As soon as I get back to my shop today I'm definitely digging into some things I know it does need injectors for sure because it's letting a decent amount of smoke from fuel out the exhaust. Thanks alot guys I'll run some test and keep everyone posted!

 

That can be completely related to the hydrolock by way of loose injector(s) or bad O-rings with a missing copper washer. Many people who thought they had bad injectors just needed O-rings.

 

How can I individually check each injector?

 

If you have the hardware and software you can rub an injector buzz test, engine off and listen to them as it goes through its cycle, they should all sound the same. You can remove the injectors and send them to a reputable shop and have them flow tested. What, exactly are you wanting to test?

 

Well it's smoking so I know something is up I got them buzz tested a while back ALL of them except 2 sounded trashed so I guess that's my issues.

 

You do have some issues to resolve there and unfortunately it does't look like it's going to be cheap. Since you suspect the injectors that would be a good place to start. New is most preferable but remans can turn out OK but only go with a reputable outfit. If it was me I'd check the cups for leakage while you're in there and build from that. You might also want to see what your compression is before you even go that route, it would bite to install new injectors in an engine with a bad cylinder or two.