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Hi all, haven't been on for quite a while, would like some direction if someone can help please.
I've scrolled looking for a post on malfunction in the column key switch, mine has stopped travelling to the start position in my '83 F100.
From what I can remember in discussions on this o it's likely a broken rod actuator, and I was hoping to find the best repair options before I start on it.
Is it likely to be a separate push button start switch?
Thanks in advance,
Matt.
Last edited by southern-old-bold; Jun 23, 2018 at 08:06 PM.
Reason: Wrong words selected
There is some play each way when you install the switch and if the bolts are loose it will move and get out of line. Maybe an adjustment would fix your problems. Normally when a rod breaks you loose all key positions
I've scrolled looking for a post on malfunction in the column key switch, mine has stopped travelling to the start position in my '83 F100.
That's generally not a broken actuator rod or loose switch, if so the ignition switch would turn very easy. The majority of the time the ignition switch itself binds up. You have to remove the lock cylinder then use lube spray through a straw nozzle where the switch turns, it's self explanatory after you remove the lock cylinder. It is/was a REAL common problem, especially in the coldest part of winter.
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I've scrolled looking for a post on malfunction in the column key switch, mine has stopped travelling to the start position in my '83 F100...<
In your F-100: If your ignition switch is the same as on an IDI truck steering column then YES there is an "adjustment" and when installing a replacement switch you need to follow the proper adjustment procedures. I will post the 'Ignition Switch" section from the 87-91 factory service manual so you can see what it contains, troubleshooting etc., including the adjustment procedure. It should be the same for all of the IDIs. That will take a little while since I have to photo-edit the screen shots before I can post them.
IGNITION SWITCH Section 33-71 Factory Service Manual 87-91.
There are two pages in this section, 33-71-1 and 33-71-2. As previously stated, as far as I am aware, this should be the same for ignition switches in all years of the Ford 6.9L/7.3L IDIs:
I did the same job a few years ago and I also have a tilt steering column. I just wanted you to know how I got the old turn signal assembly out and the new one in. I cut the wires like you did to get the old one out, but don't leave the old plug at the bottom end. Unplug that and set it to the side somewhere so you can later use it as a reference for the wire (colors) configuration. DON'T cut the new turn signal/IGN. wire harness to splice into the old harness connector.
INSTEAD, it's easy to remove the wires and their pins from the new plug connector. I think there is a red plastic clip that secures them in position and after that clip is removed you just need a pick or something small like that to depress the springy part of each pin that keeps them from being pulled out the back and they will then come out the back with just a slight pull on the wire. These are very easy pins to remove and reinstall. Then fish the new wires down through the hole, pulling them down through to where they should be, THEN all you have to do is push the new wire pins at the end of the new wire harness back into their appropriate locations on the new plug that you had originally removed them from. USE THE OLD connector plug which still has the old wires connected to it as a reference guide for where to put the new wires/pins back into the new connector according to their colors and size. (a couple of wires are larger than the others). Reinstall the red clip. Then you have a whole new harness and plug with no wire splices.
It's also easier and more convenient to do it that way rather than cutting and then splicing all of the wires.
That is how I remember it. I may have removed some tape from the new wire bundle to get all of the wires though the hole and then re-taped them .