Key switch?
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Joined: Sep 2003
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Tkcollin,
No I am still struggling through this thing, I got you link thanks!!
But I cannot seem to find which section the diagram i need is in. Is it in "steering/suspension" then "keylock cylender"??
This manual will lhelp me tremendously, I just need to know where exactly to look.
Could you let me know when you get some time?
Thanks again!!
Opi
No I am still struggling through this thing, I got you link thanks!!
But I cannot seem to find which section the diagram i need is in. Is it in "steering/suspension" then "keylock cylender"??
This manual will lhelp me tremendously, I just need to know where exactly to look.
Could you let me know when you get some time?
Thanks again!!
Opi
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 15
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From: Houghton, MI
Opie8, The link you need is under -Steering & Suspension - Steering - Ignition switch - Then it is figure 4 and figure 5 and the narritive at the bottom. The part that is probably broke is the upper ignition actuator (it is shown in dashed lines in figure 5). You will have to buy a steering wheel puller, pull the steering wheel, and remove the turn signal switch which can be fun since the wires are just long enough to permit it to be pulled off the end of the steering shaft. After this you should be able to see the upper actuator linkage. It will also help to remove the shroud round the bottom of the column. Once you try this give me a yell. Try e-mailing me (I think I set my profile up to allow it).
I tried e-mailing you but your profile won't permit it.
I tried e-mailing you but your profile won't permit it.
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TKcollin,
Ok, I have basically the whole colum ripped apart, the piece that is broken slides down inside the colum itself. Problem is that it is way to long to remove.
So what I did was remove the 3 allen head screws that holds the casting on but I still cannot slide that thing over the shaft where the steering wheel slides on (the snap ring is removed). It almost looks like a "knuckle is stopping it from coming off. Do I have to remove that whole knuckle assembly as well?
I would E-Mail you but I havent been a member long enough to do so.
Thanks again for all you time.
Ok, I have basically the whole colum ripped apart, the piece that is broken slides down inside the colum itself. Problem is that it is way to long to remove.
So what I did was remove the 3 allen head screws that holds the casting on but I still cannot slide that thing over the shaft where the steering wheel slides on (the snap ring is removed). It almost looks like a "knuckle is stopping it from coming off. Do I have to remove that whole knuckle assembly as well?
I would E-Mail you but I havent been a member long enough to do so.
Thanks again for all you time.
New User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 15
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From: Houghton, MI
Opie,
The part that was broke on mine was the upper ignition rod actuator. It is made out of white metal (pot metal) and is about 4 to 5 inches long and has a "C" shaped foot on the end facing the steering wheel. Is this what is broke on yours? where is it broke? There is a little pin at the end of the C shaped foot and that connects to the geared rod that is worked by the key cylinder. Make sure that this pin is not broken. Mine broke where the C shaped foot attaches to the rod.
If it is the upper actuator, you will need to take the snap ring off and loosen the allen head bolts (sounds like you did this). I was able to pull up on the casting and move it and the upper bearing up the shaft enough so that I could tilt the steering wheel all the way down (mine is a tilt is yours?) and fit the part in. I had to pull up on the casting until the knuckle stopped me, then tilt all the way down.
Any way you can take a picture and post it?
The part that was broke on mine was the upper ignition rod actuator. It is made out of white metal (pot metal) and is about 4 to 5 inches long and has a "C" shaped foot on the end facing the steering wheel. Is this what is broke on yours? where is it broke? There is a little pin at the end of the C shaped foot and that connects to the geared rod that is worked by the key cylinder. Make sure that this pin is not broken. Mine broke where the C shaped foot attaches to the rod.
If it is the upper actuator, you will need to take the snap ring off and loosen the allen head bolts (sounds like you did this). I was able to pull up on the casting and move it and the upper bearing up the shaft enough so that I could tilt the steering wheel all the way down (mine is a tilt is yours?) and fit the part in. I had to pull up on the casting until the knuckle stopped me, then tilt all the way down.
Any way you can take a picture and post it?
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Where do I buy?
Hi again TK,
Good news!!! I got it out!!!
Now is there a specific place I need to buy this item from?? Or is it a special order through Ford? Ive been looking on the online stores but cannot find it.
Could you let me know where you got yours from?
Thaks
Opi
Good news!!! I got it out!!!
Now is there a specific place I need to buy this item from?? Or is it a special order through Ford? Ive been looking on the online stores but cannot find it.
Could you let me know where you got yours from?
Thaks
Opi
New User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 15
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From: Houghton, MI
Opi8 (sorry about the added "e" in previous posts, apparently I'm not to detail oriented). You will have to get this part from the ford dealer, when I got mine, the guy said they give them out in 10's and 20's (meaning that they are a common problem). Was it the upper actuator? When you put it back in, there is a trick to lining up the cylinder lock gear with the actuator rod so that the key lock turns to the right position (see the directions on the Chilton website).
Let me know how it turns out.
Let me know how it turns out.
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Worn Ignition/key switch woes
I've got the same problem of a very loose upper ignition rod/actuator connection that dosn't put any pressure on the ignition switch. Not sure how much I would have to take this steering apart to get there but it sounds like complete disassembly. I've got the steering coumn laying down on the seat and the ignition switch itself out and it appears fine. My question... anyone have pictures of getting to the worn parts next to the ignition key that pushes and pulls this control rod? I've tried to follow the links but they don't take me to any pictures. Lot's of thanks in advance. This is a great site for information on these machines. - Dwayne from Florida
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Cullman Alabama
Dewayne, you might do a search and see one of those photo's. Some guys on this forum have wonderful rescources.
But it's sefl explanatory. Go by the part from AutoZone or other supplier.
When you have the part in hand, you'll be comfortable with the next step.
God Bless you Henry Ford. May your engineers forced to sleep with Bin Laudens 72 virgins.
In Seattle right now.
But it's sefl explanatory. Go by the part from AutoZone or other supplier.
When you have the part in hand, you'll be comfortable with the next step.
God Bless you Henry Ford. May your engineers forced to sleep with Bin Laudens 72 virgins.
In Seattle right now.
New User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6
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Lost my nerve... found the ignition switch itself in good condition. Lubricated it and readjusted so that "RUN" position and "OFF" works well. Ran a seperate "START" push button which places +12VDC on the starter relay coil to keep from having to place pressure on this spring position. I'm happy - it's an old truck with lots of life in the running gear.
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 14
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Lock cylinder...Key switch
Originally Posted by rebelbrowser
I dont understand what is happening, when i post i get extra text like html code apearing within the intended text.
There is no hole near the key switch where the pin gets pushed in on this unit.
There is no hole near the key switch where the pin gets pushed in on this unit.
Thx 4 The help
Dusty