When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I took it apart and put it back togeher w/o the cylinder, now i can start it by pushing the rod forward. I feel the "detent" when i do that. Why is my tilt so loose?
How do i inspect or replace that rod? The ignition switch works, but it seems that the rod isnt giving enough uuupmph to push the switch to the start position.
Is there anywhere there is a diagram available to find an easy way to that rod and what its supposed to look like if I even do find it?
I'm dead in the water here, and again, thanks for all help!!
If you mean that you have to turn the switch a loooong ways before it cranks than that should be adjustable at the switch. If you have a decent library nearby you may be able to go down there and look in the referance section for Mitchell Manuals. These are a lot more helpful than the ones that you can buy at the parts store. More diagnostics and better pics in them.
Mitchell Manuals, huh ,hmmmm.Thanks for posting !
I guess youd have to drop the column down to really get to that switch.I get a new non tilt tomorrow. will see if it has the switch and whats what . Turns out i think its the RUN position the key slides out in.I didnt find 1985 info at the library.I saw big sections for chilton/haynes but all were 2001+.Nothing for a great looking P.O.S. like my truck.
Last edited by rebelbrowser; Sep 30, 2003 at 09:20 PM.
I dont understand what is happening, when i post i get extra text like html code apearing within the intended text.
There is no hole near the key switch where the pin gets pushed in on this unit.
I don't know what happened there but, when I opened this thread I got a couple of link looking things and a message about the pin hole then when I came back I got pics but no message. On this column, I believe that you have to remove the wheel and the turn signal switch. Under that you'll see a small screw that holds the switch in. Or it may have a slot with the "key" to push. Either way , it's inside.
the new column is in and works well. No horn till i changed the steering wheel cover with mine that has a ground wire and cruise control buttons. can anyone say wether my cruise buttons should work here now ? It didnt work before. However, I did spot extra springs on the throttle linkage under the hood. The wiring looks the same as before.There were only two leads and a ground.
Last edited by rebelbrowser; Oct 2, 2003 at 05:49 PM.
Opie8 did you get you problem fixed? The same thing happend to me, it was not the lock cylinder but the upper rod actuator, which attaches to the ignition rod. It is a bit of work to take apart but not to difficult. To talk you through it you should have a diagram of the column (otherwise the terminology gets to tedious) I have a diagram of it but can't seem to get it to post to the message board, send me your emailand I will send you the diagram of the column and ignition switch and we can work from there.
NEVER post an E-Mail address on FTE, there are web BOT's out there that specifically search for e-maill addresses online. Once they find one, they continue to seek around the website they were on until they have searched everywhere...
This is why we've been seeing a lot of "SERVER BUSY, TRY AGAIN" messages when coming here, Ken filled all of the mods in on it a while ago.
If you check a users profile, you can find a link that allows the site to forward an e-mail to that user, but out-front addresses are a no no...
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.