2016 F350 Trailer Brake controller
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From: Frederick, MD
Some more info would be helpful. But based upon what you are saying...you have zero braking on the trailer.
Do you have lights and turn signals? Are you using a trailer connection in the bed of the truck or the bumper?
What type of trailer are you towing?
Have you checked all fuses that are for the towing?
Do you have lights and turn signals? Are you using a trailer connection in the bed of the truck or the bumper?
What type of trailer are you towing?
Have you checked all fuses that are for the towing?
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All lights/signals work; trailer 15,000K triple axel Tuff boat trailer with disc brakes, Carlisle HBA-16 EOH actuator (with and without a CAM), LED lights. F350 controller/brakes worked on trailer with incandescent bulbs. 15K trailer brakes work on GM & Dodge integrated controllers. Is it possible that the LED lighting does not draw a minimum amperage required for the 2016 F350 integrated controller to output power to the brake actuator? I'm going to try a 7 blade LED adaptor with resistors to see if that makes a difference. Ford dealer says "install after market" (UGLY and screws with display warnings).
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From: Graham, WA
All lights/signals work; trailer 15,000K triple axel Tuff boat trailer with disc brakes, Carlisle HBA-16 EOH actuator (with and without a CAM), LED lights. F350 controller/brakes worked on trailer with incandescent bulbs. 15K trailer brakes work on GM & Dodge integrated controllers. Is it possible that the LED lighting does not draw a minimum amperage required for the 2016 F350 integrated controller to output power to the brake actuator? I'm going to try a 7 blade LED adaptor with resistors to see if that makes a difference. Ford dealer says "install after market" (UGLY and screws with display warnings).
Rob
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Yes ,.... shows "connected" and "disconnected" like it should ... gain shows increase when slider or pedal brakes selected. .... no power at 12V pin (Trailer battery fully charged) ... worked on previous trailer HBA-10 non LED lights; now HBA-16 with LED lights. I see that some with similar problem are wiring direct (relay & fuse) to the 12V pin. (I think that is only an 18Ga wire meant to charge the trailer battery ??? will that not bypass the controller ??) Some say a minimum amperage must be detected by "the smart controller" before it will power the 12V pin. I have tried a Curt LED light adaptor "Curt 57003" with no luck.
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From: Graham, WA
I may be wrong, but I don't believe the 12v pin or the lights don't have anything to do with the brake controller. The 12v pin should be live when the key is in the ON position.
BTW, does do the brakes work with the break-away switch?
I was looking at your actuator specs and it requires 12v power. If that power comes from the 12v pin on the truck, that may be where you need to troubleshoot.
BTW, does do the brakes work with the break-away switch?
I was looking at your actuator specs and it requires 12v power. If that power comes from the 12v pin on the truck, that may be where you need to troubleshoot.
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Thanks; Breakaway works. No power at 12V pin ...... Frustrating because worked on previous trailer (which I don't have access to anymore). Will check all 11 fuses/relays again. Have a new theory:
Trailer Guy wired HBA-16 incorrectly ??? Looking at the "Electrical Schematic" on Hydrastar's website - if the solid black (12V) from the Tow Vehicle were not spliced into (ie: missing) the solid black from the charger to the HBA-16 there would be no output from the "smart controller" because none requested. The Break-Away would still be powered from the battery; the brakes would (and do) work on GM & Dodge because those controllers provide enough 12V power to operate the actuator when the key is on (unlike Ford which simply charges the battery, I think). Maybe wishful thinking this might be the problem; but, when I put the trailer battery on a charger last night, it was LOW. I'll unwrap the wiring tomorrow.
Trailer Guy wired HBA-16 incorrectly ??? Looking at the "Electrical Schematic" on Hydrastar's website - if the solid black (12V) from the Tow Vehicle were not spliced into (ie: missing) the solid black from the charger to the HBA-16 there would be no output from the "smart controller" because none requested. The Break-Away would still be powered from the battery; the brakes would (and do) work on GM & Dodge because those controllers provide enough 12V power to operate the actuator when the key is on (unlike Ford which simply charges the battery, I think). Maybe wishful thinking this might be the problem; but, when I put the trailer battery on a charger last night, it was LOW. I'll unwrap the wiring tomorrow.
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