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No worries. We do try to avoid blind parts tossing, so specifics is what we're ultimately after to help you out the best.
You're going to need to get some kind of a scanner or gauge setup to pull actual data, because a number of things that you might have mentioned you didn't so there's still a chance this is electrical and not mechanical. The engine is heavily electronically controlled, so there's really no way around needing some kind of a computer to read data. Here's a common list of recommendations: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...eral-info.html
When the needle pegs, do you hear the cooling fan running? It's pretty obvious, sounds like a semi-truck next to you as the engine revs up and down. Any coolant leaks? White residue around the coolant cap in the engine bay?
This is probably too much information up front, but attached for later reading is a copy of the overheating diagnostic sheet, cooling system specs, and the overview of the cooling system:
Lack of cooling fan noise is a concern, the fan clutch is electronically controlled by the PCM and it should be fully locked in if the ECT is over 221*. Could be a number of things going on. Any questions about what scanner to get to help with diagnostics?
Hello Bryan and welcome I would recommend getting a scanguage II to monitor whats going on. It will allow you to view the Oil and coolant temps and much more. Also if you head over to the 6.0 section of the forum there are bunch of great knowledgeable guys such as Texastech_diesel(bryan) that will try to help.
The A/C goes warm, at idle, too. Does that help any?
Points somewhat to a fan problem. In the diagnosis and testing manual above, go to Page 303-03-14 and run the fan clutch diagnostics. You need a laser tach to do anything more than spin the fan by hand, you can get one off Amazon for about $20.
Or you can shortcut the process and try to run a lock-out wire for the fan clutch. If you ground (read: ground, not power) one of the wires on the fan clutch connector you can force it to fully lock up. If you do that and you can't hear the fan accelerating from a stop it's a better than 50% shot the fan clutch is bad. So it's not a totally blind part toss. Instructions on which wire here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-wire-mod.html
If this is the problem and you don't want to put in a an electronically controlled unit, BPD mades an adapter to run a Hayden thermal clutch like the 7.3 had: https://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/Me...p/90201099.htm
There could still be an underlying problem with the waterpump or thermostat, or a few other things. But this is a solid start.
Minor thing to check... Make sure the radiator is not clogged. Take a garden hose and spray directly when cool. Check coolant viability.. It could be the original...
I can't see pictures at work, but this is the fan clutch connector:
(is this the same as your picture?) You should plug it back in and check to see if it's running correctly before replacing the part.
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