I have a 1969 F100. The engine got left in the rain with the hood off by the previous owner. I pulled the heads and the cylinders have barnacles growing in the them. I purchased a 360 from a 1975 donner truck. The 390 I have has a good crank. I am going to put it in the 360 so I will now have a 390 again. I need suggestions for a good street aluminum intake and carb along with so aluminum heads. I want to go with a roller solid lifter cam. I will do mostly street driving and messing with my brother is running a 454 in his 77 SWB chev. I will be putting headers and a complete dual exhaust system in this truck. I like a good sounding exhaust with a little bit of cam noise. I would like to keep from getting a cam with so much lift that I have to have special rocker assy to make the cam work. Also the original 390 that got left in the rain was a brand new rebuild and was never put completely put back together. I have been able to salvage a few parts. I don't know it I should try and use the main and rod bearing on my new rebuild or not. They are new and look to be in good shape. How do you remove the end piece that is on the crank shaft. I got the timing cover off but until that piece is removed from the crank I cant get the crank timing gear off. Thanks for the help.

 

Here are a few picture of my project truck with a no go motor. I have now bought a new to me 390 engine from a paint and body shop that bought a 75 4x4 to get the panels. I got the motor for $150. and they pulled it and set it in the bed of my truck so I could get it home. I think I got a good deal. I have taken it down to the block and tomorrow I will mic the cylinders and see if it has been bored out. I did not see any signs so far that the motor has been apart.



some good scrap metal here on the drivers side.


close up for those of us not so good eye site.

 

Go to the FE forum. You are going to have to go to aftermarket rockers if you want to use a solid roller lifter cam.

 

Looks like a great starting point, welcome and good luck on your journey.

 

No 360/390 engines were factory installed in F100/350's after 1976.

And unless the 360 was 'by the seashore' I doubt it had any barnacles.

 

I have moved my engine info and questions to the FE engine section. I posted pics of the heads and numbers that are on the heads. I have two sets of heads now one that was on my 1969 F100 and the second set that came off a 1975 F150 with a 360.

 

The head may have come off a 1978, but it was not there originally, because 1976 was the last year that F100/350's came with 360/390's.

351M/400 introduced in 1977, so a 1978 F150 could have had one of these or a 300 I-6, 302 or a 460.

btw: 1971 was the last year that Ford Passenger Cars (Galaxie/LTD) came with the 390.

Here are your cylinder head numbers/date codes:

C8AE-H = 1968/71 360/390 cylinder head // 9C13 = Head cast March (C) 13, 1969 (9).

D2TE-AA = 1972/76 360/390 cylinder head with hardened valve seats / 5L19 = Head cast November (L) 19, 1975 (5).

A = January, M = December. The letter I is skipped.

 

That's too bad that someone let that top end get all rusted up like that. Lazy and/or stupid I guess.

 

Thanks for the help. I will use the D2 heads, I did look it up in one of my truck books and 1976 was the last year of the 360 I think the mechanic at the body shop was not up to date on his trucks either. From the note above these heads were made nov.19th 1975, That is great info since now I know when this engine was really made. Thanks for that info Numbers Dummy, The rusted up part of the engine. I bought this truck out of a guys drive way on the side of the hwy and saw it as I went by at 75 miles and hour in my 2006 ford truck. My wife was a little nervous as I slammed on the breaks and started backing back down the side of the hwy to get back to the truck. I asked a young girl who came out about the truck and her dad was rebuilding it as he was a machines. She found him lying in the drive way and the ambulance people told her he had a stroke. He is paralyzed now and she did not know nothing about mechanic work as so no one covered up the engine. I payed to much ($900.)but she need the money to help with bills. I now have a 1969 Ford F100 with all the original badging on the fenders and a 3 speed tranny. The bed is see thru but I do have a tig welder and will fix that with a new bed insert.

 

1976 was the last year of the 360 & 390.

Pic: First page of 360/390 engine section from 1973/79 truck parts catalog.

 

You know...those heads just might be salvageable. Of course the whole valve train needs to go into the trash but I bet new valves/guides/lifters/etc...and long hot soak of the head itself...and the heads could be rebuilt with all new components.
What I wonder is about the inside of the motor. That open carb base probably let in a bunch of water into the engine...although you'd have to crack it open to see. One never knows with these things. That's too bad about the hood being left open. Feel sorry for the guy too. My wife always is asking me about my frantic pace in the garage with my projects and I tell her you never know when the next breath might be your last.

 

I will look up some place I can buy new tubes and rockers. I will put new lifters and push rods in at the same time. I like a strong sounding cam and have visions of a hyd roller cam while I am at it. I will use the D2 heads with headers, aluminum intake and a 750ish carb. I am taking my time since I am the mechanic, body man, painter and interior guy too. I get to be the BOSS too since I am the only one working on the build. Got to love retirement!!

 

I have the inside mostly removed and will have the clutch and brake peddle assy removed along with the steering column. Then I will be stripping the out side down. I need to finish pulling the fenders, bumpers, and bed off. I will remove the doors and windows and then sand and clean and replace the rusted out and broken parts. Painting is lost in the dark tunnel where there is no light shining yet.

 

I did notice some of the pictures of other 69 trucks that they have a pan in the center hump in the floor board that removes, but mine is solid and does not unbolt. I wish mine did have that removable pan.

 

I also forgot to mention that I did take the original 390 block that came in this truck to the machine shop and a .030 bore cleaned the block up perfectly, so the original 390 block is going back in this truck. Line bored the crank and cam and will buy some .030 over pistons (FLAT TOP).