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I realize that the duraspark conversion topic is THOROUGHLY discussed, but I have a question that I have not seen before. I just (last night in fact) got everything installed on my truck (couldn't find any of the parts I needed at a junk yard besides a coil, and I would rather spend $10 more for a new one that I trust). New Duralast distributor for an 82 300, new ignition module (duralast), new coil, new coil wire, new harness from summit. I followed the diagram and hooked the white wire up to my starter solenoid on the I terminal. I then hooked up the red wire the accessory port on my fuse panel inside the cab (couldn't think of a better place since I don't have any accessories). Since I don't have a tach, I left the yellow wire dead-ended, and the pink wire the same (since I don't have the resistor, I've heard I don't need it). I hooked everything up, got in, turned the key and cliiiiiick POW!!!........uh oh....I notice that I have lost all power to everything related to the key. I turn the key off, and it smells near the starter solenoid, so I unplug the white wire, turn the key and the engine turns over fine. I hook the wire up again, it turns over fine. At this point I think "oh well, maybe since I haven't started the 'ole girl In a bit, maybe it was just stuck a little bit". Well, I continue messing with the dizzy, turning over, dizzy, etc. I finally get my dad out and have him turn the dizzy while I turn the truck over a pump the gas. Well, we are getting no fire so we check the coil wire and sure enough, nothing from the coil. We check the coil harness, and the brown wire was getting power only when I would turn the truck over, but nothing else was. I think that means that I am not gonna run when I let off the key, but I think I 'ought to get it running at anytime first (even with the key on start). I got no power from the other pin, and therefore nothing from the coil (I check directly at the coil just in case I got a bum coil wire). I don't think its to module, because I am getting power to the coil, but I don't know why the coil is not firing. Since the brown wire is on the positive side, I assume that the other side wouldn't get power since it would be ground correct? I have read up on this subject, and have not seen an answer to someone using all new parts. I know that the modules are "high-fatality", but I don't think that's my problem. Also, I've had very good luck with duralast parts (autozone) so I figured I should be fine. I would get another one to test, but it's $30-ish and I don't like throwing parts at stuff unless I am out of other options. I hope to get some answers today, and work on her again tonight.
Your "accessory" point in the fuse box is getting power in run and start? Some of those power feeds from the key do not have power in some of those modes.
Take the red wire from the module, and the wire from the coil +, tie them together and temporarily put them on the battery +. See if you have spark then when you crank it over. By the way, you do need a resistor, you will overheat the module and or the coil without it after a period of time. The factory put it there for a reason. You can get on for a Chrysler and mount it up and it will work.
No, no power on start. I thought the white wire was power on start...after some research, its the retard in timing. But then how am i getting power to the coil during start?
I'll stop by AutoZone and get one...is there a specific model i should get one for? Or just a generic ballast resistor?