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Motor is out / Engine guys needed

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Old 06-15-2018, 09:10 PM
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Motor is out / Engine guys needed

Figured I would start another thread as the old kinda doesn’t match my needs anymore. So my current engine lost compression or so I was told. I did verify something was a mis with a leak down test. Pulled the motor today. After out I pulled the head as I wanted to see the “smoking gun”. Anyways pulled the motor and pulled the passenger head. This is the results. I guess I need advice as to how to continue. Do you think I have a broken piston ring or what. Does the block need bored over? Can I just hone the effected cylinders? This is a budget build for sure.

This is what I found.

First pic is with the head off.
Second and third is cylinder 7. I am wondering if I have a broken piston ring or something?
Third and Fourth are cylinder 5 and 3. They are like a polished mirror finish.

Cylinder 1 isn’t pictured and it still has cross hatch pattern on the walls.
 
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Old 06-15-2018, 09:16 PM
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Here is the head. Cylinders 7,5,3,1. 7 and 5 have the most carbon buildup.
 
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Old 06-15-2018, 09:55 PM
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I think at this point I'd just pull seven out and take a look. Those are grooves right? You need some head work as well. You will no when you pull the piston out what's up, and why those grooves are there. If it was my engine, if I bored it out, I'd do the whole thing. If your going to sell it, then do the one I guess. Don't think I could do that myself. Looks like some bad guides as well. You could clean the head up and reseal it to sell, but again, don't think I could do that either. Other choice is buy a used motor if it's to far gone. If those grooves aren't bad you could change that piston or hone and re-ring. The pictures look like they are pretty deep. Keep us posted.
 
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Old 06-15-2018, 10:16 PM
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Well originally I was looking to sell the truck. However my other truck is for sale so I will be planning on driving this for a while at least. The grooves catch your finger nail. I did buy a used engine. According to buyer it had 220,000 on it. I got it cheap. So I am to the point now do I pull the heads on that one and see what’s shaking and then go from there or what?

I am assuming you are saying bad valve guides? How can you tell? Sorry I am Engine tolerances and stuff dumb.
 
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Old 06-15-2018, 10:37 PM
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At this point you have to decide what to do

Rebuild the engine (looks like it got dusted specially if the cylinder walls look like mirror finish)

Buy a reman long block

OR
Buy a used one and roll the dice.

Either one is going to cost specially a used one if it ends up being a dud (it happened to me with a work truck I think I had a thread on it)

You will find out that machine work is more expensive than parts if you dont know the owner. if you decide to re sleve the cylinder back to factory spec unfortunately these are not wet liner cylinder like big rigs so the cylinder has to get punched out and install a sleeve then machine on my engine build on my OBS I went .030 over and had two cylinders sleeved and machined to .030 over just in those two cylinder was like $250 plus sleeves (this was another machine shop as the original machine shop at the time had a broken honing tool or whatever its called)
Parts from Clay at Riffraff $1350 plus shiping (wrist pins bushings are not include in the rebuild kit Clay offers)
machine work iirc was like $1300 but it was the works (polished heads, wrist pin bushings installed and machined, polished cams, cam bushings, complete head job etc..) when my original heads that were ready for install got ruined by a leaking storage roof so I had other heads redone as these got pitted really bad so the price went up again to what the final $1300... lol....
 
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Old 06-15-2018, 10:44 PM
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I am gonna do a leak down test on the used engine I bought to see what the results are any go from there. Ya it sounds like machine shop work is crazy expensive. Your saying just the heads redone cost $1,300?
 
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Old 06-15-2018, 10:47 PM
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Here is a few better pics of 5,3, and 1.

5 donít really show anything. 3 and 1 still have cross hatch.
 
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Old 06-15-2018, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Firefighter 1406 View Post
I am gonna do a leak down test on the used engine I bought to see what the results are any go from there. Ya it sounds like machine shop work is crazy expensive. Your saying just the heads redone cost $1,300?
No, no,no. $1300 was the total cost including re doing the two heads.
I put the engine together myself saving me some money.
 
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Old 06-15-2018, 11:06 PM
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Oh forgot, also added Comp Cams 910 valve springs and new OEM valves which raise the cost a couple of bucks more lol....
 
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Old 06-15-2018, 11:12 PM
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If the head isnt warped or the valves dont have to much side play you could probably get away by just lapping the valves, and adding new valve stem seals, this right here will save you some $$.
 
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Old 06-15-2018, 11:51 PM
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Guess I am gonna have to call around and see what the going rate is.
 
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Old 06-16-2018, 12:24 AM
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Was the used motor running when you bought it? Put some oil in each cylinder and turn it over. Then do a compression test. That would be your cheap way out for an engine. Or put them both together and decide which one is worth rebuilding. If you do the work It's going to be around three grand, maybe a little more. But with the right parts, it should last a long while if done right.
 
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Old 06-16-2018, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Firefighter 1406 View Post
I am gonna do a leak down test on the used engine I bought to see what the results are any go from there....
This is the direction I'm going. I did the compression test on the crate, and the leak-down on the stand. I didn't go cheap on the test equipment (I went with OTC on both) - because my decision was going to be based on my results. One motor came up a dud, but the second is in excellent condition. From there, I dropped the pan and pulled the covers and checked everything out. I have to re-seal the pan, but I'd rather have a fresh pan seal and dipstick bung seal on a motor I'm about to install.

Just a thought.
 
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Old 06-16-2018, 09:07 AM
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If it were me, if this helps, I would roll the dice on a used one. The chances are less that a used one is bad. Usually, and I use that term very loosely, a used engine is ok. These are pretty stout engines and can take some abuse. You can do the tests Rich did and get a little more guarantee. Of course, I am saying this because you are on a budget. if you were not, I'd say rebuild it, but that comes with a whole other set of opinions.
 
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Old 06-16-2018, 09:16 AM
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I went out today to start the leakdown tests. I was turning over the engine and after like one complete revolution it stops dead in its tracks. Does this either way I turn it. I have rotated this engine all the way around before so I am kinda at a loss. I am gonna have to rotate it over and pull the pan and make sure nothing broke. Only thing I have done different was drain the oil a bit ago. Really trying not to pull the heads on this engine.
 
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