Motor is out / Engine guys needed
#46
06-21-2018, 08:19 PM
I took off the drivers side head just so I could know if it was worth a shot to do or not. I will have to get pictures later. But all the cylinders look decent. All still had cross hatch. They had some up and down marks but noting looked like I would catch a nail. So I guess I will try to clean this block up and go from there. I still feel that either block is gonna need machine work but I will see what she cleans up like. As much as I want the two bad cylinders to hone out I am not hopeful. If there is anything you guys think I am missing please let me know.
#47
06-22-2018, 07:25 AM
Just want to add that in terms of keeping track of parts, make enough notes, pictures, etc. so that someone else can put it back together.
For instance on putting valves into a cardboard box lid, label the front.
For the heads, find a specific mark on each so you know left and right. For the crank caps, make sure you know which end of the row is the front of the engine.
Believe me, when you start putting it back together, you will feel like you are another person LOL.
For instance on putting valves into a cardboard box lid, label the front.
For the heads, find a specific mark on each so you know left and right. For the crank caps, make sure you know which end of the row is the front of the engine.
Believe me, when you start putting it back together, you will feel like you are another person LOL.
#48
06-27-2018, 05:06 PM
I called the machine shop today so as to get an idea what I am looking at.
To clean the block, bore it over and install new cam bearings and freeze plugs is around $475 plus parts.
To have the heads gone through is $525 plus parts. That’s for grinding the valves and pressure testing. If the cups need replaced she said it’s $300 in addition plus parts. They said they ship to someone else for the cups to be done.
Looking at around $1,200 avaerage give or take for the machine work. I was hoping they would sleeve the block so I could use stick pistons but she said they don’t do that to these motors.
I was hoping to stay stock size so I could reuse the pistons and save some cash. She quoted me $850 for the oversized pistons. I know Clay sells kits too.
As much as I wanted to get this thing running quickly I think it’s gonna have to be put on hold. The cash flow isn’t there right now, after the costly rebuild on my other trucks rear end.
To clean the block, bore it over and install new cam bearings and freeze plugs is around $475 plus parts.
To have the heads gone through is $525 plus parts. That’s for grinding the valves and pressure testing. If the cups need replaced she said it’s $300 in addition plus parts. They said they ship to someone else for the cups to be done.
Looking at around $1,200 avaerage give or take for the machine work. I was hoping they would sleeve the block so I could use stick pistons but she said they don’t do that to these motors.
I was hoping to stay stock size so I could reuse the pistons and save some cash. She quoted me $850 for the oversized pistons. I know Clay sells kits too.
As much as I wanted to get this thing running quickly I think it’s gonna have to be put on hold. The cash flow isn’t there right now, after the costly rebuild on my other trucks rear end.
#49
06-27-2018, 05:41 PM
Hotshot
$800 in labor to replace cups???? You've got to be kidding me! That alone would have me over there getting my stuff. No sleeves is no surprise, these are not sleeved engines. As for the rest of the work I think I'd do that myself. Let them bore it (if it's necessary) and do the cam bearings, etc myself. Do the cam and/or crank need grinding?
#50
06-27-2018, 06:28 PM
#51
06-27-2018, 10:30 PM
The easiest way to check your crank if you don't have precision measuring tools is to plastigage the main and rod journals. It involves pulling the main and rod caps, one at a time is best, inserting a piece of plastigage on a clean journal, torquing the cap down to specs, then removing the cap and comparing the squashed plastic to the ruled example that comes with it to determine the clearance. This will show not only the clearance but also if the journal/bearing cap is egg shaped. Look up the procedure, it's a lot easier to do than to describe.
#52
06-28-2018, 07:06 AM
Hotshot
Not necessarily but if you do see grooves you don't need anyone else to tell you that you have a problem. Plain old wear that will not demonstrate itself as grooves could exist and this is one of those things that you would want to address if there was any wear at all, even if it was worn but within spec. You're not going to just spend an hour in a year or two to address it as it gets worse. I am not familiar with Lewis50's suggestion there but it does sound good.
#53
06-28-2018, 06:14 PM
Cups are actually easy to do, easier still if the heads are sitting on a bench. I'd pop the old cups out first, get the heads hot-tanked and rebuilt, so the open water jackets around the cups will get cleaned better. When you get them back then install the new cups yourself. Cups are "glued" in with Loctite and a bit of a pressure fit, don't know how much hot tanking the heads would affect them if you didn't replace them afterwards, or if a reputable shop would hot-tank w/o replacing them.
#54
06-28-2018, 06:20 PM
Actually, the few times I've had block / head work done, that's what I do anyway. I remove every plug and bolt on the thing, run bottle brushes through every gallery or jacket, and clean up every bit of casting flash or sharp edges or whatnot that I find before giving it to the shop. When I was a kid in high school I took a 302 block to get done at a shop, but they didn't pull any plugs at all. When I brought the block back home my friend's Dad came over to help with re-assembly - ok, well really to teach us reassembly - he was dismayed that none of the block plugs had been removed for the cleaning by the shop.
#55
06-28-2018, 06:25 PM
Plastigage can be difficult on rod bearings. For one thing, you really need to do it in several locations on each journal, and you can't move the crank at all when tightening the bolts, that's why it can be difffcult to do on rod journal. The slightest movement renders the test worthless.
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