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Installed a comp cams chain on my 400 a couple weeks ago. Got the truck back together and it won't start. Gets spark, shoots gas in the carb, sounds like my starter is loading up and working a little harder than normal. think I might have installed my chain to advanced and my it isn't letting my truck start and invariably destroy it. I believe I installed my crank gear on the "0" setting, and turned clockwise to line the A setting on the crank gear with the dot on the cam gear. I'm not usually this dense so I'd thought I'd document my wrong doings so maybe someone else can learn from my mistakes. Will dissassemble tomorrow night. Unless anybody has any other suggestions.
On the second trip try to take a photo of the chain configuration before closing it up, just in case it doesn't start again. Diagnosing gets easier then.
Just because this hapnened to me before... on timing chains with 0, 4+ and 4- there are usually 3 marks on the crank gear and 3 marks on the cam gear each a different shape. You have to line up the corresponding specific shape on the crank gear with the same shape in the cam gear. When I goofed mine has a circle, a square and a triangle and I lined up circle with square. Just something to think about and check for.
Just because this hapnened to me before... on timing chains with 0, 4+ and 4- there are usually 3 marks on the crank gear and 3 marks on the cam gear each a different shape. You have to line up the corresponding specific shape on the crank gear with the same shape in the cam gear. When I goofed mine has a circle, a square and a triangle and I lined up circle with square. Just something to think about and check for.
So what you are saying is that circle does not get the square.
My last motor I bought that was rebuilt but unknown... The cam was 180 out. both dimples at 12 o'clock. So when I go to reset timing, I have to set it and then rotate the wires or dizzy 180.
Sorry gents it's Tuesday and I still haven't torn into the motor yet. Gonna get after it after work today. I'll post currently installed pics and afterward "fixed" pics for reference. I might need more help when I get in there though.
For a stock timing chain, with the factory retarded cam timing,both the crank dot and the cam dot should meet at 6 o'clock for the cam and 12 o'clock for the crank gear, correct?
Sorry guys, life keeps getting the way. It seems like I installed the crank gear with the key way on the zero setting. And turned the engine over to the drivers side to get the "a" mark on the new crank gear lined up with the dot on the cam gear. At this point I'm not 100% sure what I did wrong. I know how to revert it back to the stock setting but Id rather advance it since I'm right here. What else should I have done? In my mind, the crank gear has to turn at least a little without the cam gear turning to change the timing, so if I don't use the zero setting then turn the crank freely to match the "a" setting on the crank gar to the cam gear dot what do I do? Attached pic is how it sets now, "a" under the dot of the crank gear. "0" setting and the key way are to the drivers side of the crank shaft.
I'm not familiar with how Comp sets up their gear set, but if you think you have the marks in the correct orientation, wouldn't the "ignition timing" being 180 out have had the same symptoms you were describing earlier?
If you're only advancing the cam timing, even up to 10 degrees or so, all that is doing is lowering the rpm where the torque peaks. You're not hurting the engine's ability to run. If it won't run, chances are better than average that the distributor is off. Not the cam gear.
How did you check the ignition timing when you were trying to fire it up?
Sorry if that's not the issue. I'll see if I can find some instructions on Comp's site to clear it up in my mind.
Ok, read the instructions and it seems pretty straightforward (theoretically) but in your last pic it looks like your crankshaft key is not at the 12 o'clock position. Where is the dot on the cam gear when your crank gear is at 12?
If it's not lining up, perhaps the chain can be moved one tooth over on the cam gear to line it up? Or does doing that put it too far in the other direction?
Seems like you're one tooth off on the cam gear, but it could just be the angle of the image. Pictures lie sometimes!
Good luck.
Looking into this in the past, virtually every V8 can at least be checked without any disassembly by bringing #6 piston to TDC, the #1 valve springs and their keepers should be even. Lay a straight edge across. Damper mark and pointer at "0". When #1 piston is at TDC the #6 valves should be at transition, roll the engine back and forth by hand with a breaker bar on the damper bolt and can see it.
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