Water pump stud broken flush with block
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 249
Likes: 2
From: Moody, AL
Water pump stud broken flush with block
1994 F-150 5.0 E4OD RWD
I had a water pump stud break off flush with the block. I have managed to get the timing cover off. Now I am trying to figure out my best option since I figure I will only get one shot at getting this right. I tried a removal tool, which broke the tool and some of the bolt. I am thinking drilling it out and installing a Helicoil would be the strongest repair. Drilling and tapping would work if I could use a different size bolt, but that is not an option. I don't think drilling and tapping the same size would result in strong threads since it is almost guaranteed to overlap the original threads.
Has anyone done a fix for this and put miles on the repair? I have seen some old posts, but nothing regarding using a helicoil.
I have already purchased the Felpro timing cover gasket kit, and I will be changing the timing set before reassembly.
When cleaning the gasket between the oil pan and timing cover I found a metal "gasket core" that appears to run the length of the oil pan. Is this normal?
Thanks!
I had a water pump stud break off flush with the block. I have managed to get the timing cover off. Now I am trying to figure out my best option since I figure I will only get one shot at getting this right. I tried a removal tool, which broke the tool and some of the bolt. I am thinking drilling it out and installing a Helicoil would be the strongest repair. Drilling and tapping would work if I could use a different size bolt, but that is not an option. I don't think drilling and tapping the same size would result in strong threads since it is almost guaranteed to overlap the original threads.
Has anyone done a fix for this and put miles on the repair? I have seen some old posts, but nothing regarding using a helicoil.
I have already purchased the Felpro timing cover gasket kit, and I will be changing the timing set before reassembly.
When cleaning the gasket between the oil pan and timing cover I found a metal "gasket core" that appears to run the length of the oil pan. Is this normal?
Thanks!
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
I feel your pain. I had one break off once. I was able to use a small torch and warm the area and use a small punch and was able to rotate it out. Lucky, I was.
Try a EZ lock thread-sert. Drill it larger/tap, then screw the insert in. I know there is not much block thickness, but for what it holds it likely will work.
If the pan gasket was rubber(stock should be), then it likely has a steel core to keep its shape.
Try a EZ lock thread-sert. Drill it larger/tap, then screw the insert in. I know there is not much block thickness, but for what it holds it likely will work.
If the pan gasket was rubber(stock should be), then it likely has a steel core to keep its shape.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 249
Likes: 2
From: Moody, AL
I feel your pain. I had one break off once. I was able to use a small torch and warm the area and use a small punch and was able to rotate it out. Lucky, I was.
Try a EZ lock thread-sert. Drill it larger/tap, then screw the insert in. I know there is not much block thickness, but for what it holds it likely will work.
If the pan gasket was rubber(stock should be), then it likely has a steel core to keep its shape.
Try a EZ lock thread-sert. Drill it larger/tap, then screw the insert in. I know there is not much block thickness, but for what it holds it likely will work.
If the pan gasket was rubber(stock should be), then it likely has a steel core to keep its shape.
Thanks again for the info on the gasket. I figured it was normal, but I did not see anything about it in the literature. I just wanted to be sure it would not mess up the timing cover gasket kit.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
Pretty sure the holes are threaded through into the waterjacket area(thus the bolt rust/expands and is hard to remove after 30 yrs). Going by faded memory, it's only like 1/2" thick in those areas. Might need to shorten the insert so it is flush once screwed in. Or grind it flat if it still protrudes "if" it bottoms out in the waterjacket/cylinder wall.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,333
Likes: 296
The bolts on the 5.0 goes into the water jacket, the 5.8 does not.
Same on flywheel bolts.
Use a sealant on the threads if into the fluids.
The factory also uses rtv on the harmonic balancer bolt and washer to keep oil in
Same on flywheel bolts.
Use a sealant on the threads if into the fluids.
The factory also uses rtv on the harmonic balancer bolt and washer to keep oil in
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 249
Likes: 2
From: Moody, AL
Pretty sure the holes are threaded through into the waterjacket area(thus the bolt rust/expands and is hard to remove after 30 yrs). Going by faded memory, it's only like 1/2" thick in those areas. Might need to shorten the insert so it is flush once screwed in. Or grind it flat if it still protrudes "if" it bottoms out in the waterjacket/cylinder wall.
I will use anti-seize where the stud screws into the block. I have a rust prevention paint I used on the radiator support that could help. What else would work? Maybe a gel or tape thread locker?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 249
Likes: 2
From: Moody, AL
What kind of sealant would be able to stay on after being screwed in, yet still not mix with the antifreeze, besides a paint? Maybe a thread locker gel or tape?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
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From: Ohio
Teflon paste might help. Just keeping the coolant system cleaned will help. When no one changes antifreeze for 20 yrs, it tends to loose it's rust inhibitors and things like this happen.
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 249
Likes: 2
From: Moody, AL
I figure that is the root of the problem. My mom drove the truck for a few years with a leaking radiator. After replacing it I noticed air still getting in the system and moisture where the cover meets the block. Since I really don't use the truck often I put it off for years. Now I'm paying for it, yet I hear I am lucky to only have one break. I have a new water pump, thermostat, and radiator ready to go in once I get this done.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 904
Likes: 115
From: Laurel, MS
I know you said it's broken off flush, but could you put a nut on top of it and tack weld the inside of the nut to the bolt???
If so, this will heat it up to help loosen it as well as give you something to put a wrench on to try to back it out.
If so, this will heat it up to help loosen it as well as give you something to put a wrench on to try to back it out.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 442
Likes: 1
From: Roanoke, VA
I've had the most success with this method.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 249
Likes: 2
From: Moody, AL
It is flush. Not even one thread exposed. Also, some of it broke when I tried using my extractor. Judging by the amount of rust I had to clean off of the stud inside the timing cover this thing is not going to move. When I was taking the water pump out the stud just slid out. I recently had a new A/C system installed, and the resulting work left me questioning the competency of the mechanic. I am wondering if it broke off while he was hanging the A/C bracket from it.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 249
Likes: 2
From: Moody, AL
If the stud goes into the coolant 1/2 inch inside the block, wouldn't it be easier to drive the stud into the block and take it out from the inside? There is no rust to fight with this way. Just an idea.
Would replacing the standard water pump bolts with zinc coated bolts help?
Would replacing the standard water pump bolts with zinc coated bolts help?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
You talking about screwing it in? Not sure it is short enough to fall out the back. Better to center punch it and drill it. Maybe if you drill it .201(for 1/4-20), you might be able to heat, chip the broken pieces out and salvage the threads? If not, then see if the thread insert will fit?
Maybe get grade 8, they might not rust as fast, but if you get clean coolant I doubt the time you have it you would have any more issues anyway.
Maybe get grade 8, they might not rust as fast, but if you get clean coolant I doubt the time you have it you would have any more issues anyway.